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Update for anyone following: Installed everything as shown in diagram. Opted for 8 AWG from Battery Positive to a 50A resettable inline breaker. 8 AWG is tied into to 2x 12 AWG wires feeding a 6 way fuse bus in parallel (manufacturer’s design of what I purchased). 4 of the 6 fuses available for circuits are tied to terminal 30 of each relay. I tied a jumper from one of my spare circuits off the bus to terminal 86 of each relay. The trigger, terminal 85, was pulled from my interior by way of T-Taps from the X61A-X5 pins 10, 11, 17 and 23. This was the hardest part of the job. Even with the X61A unbolted and the X5 removed - there was VERY little wiggle room. I added back up lights that I want to come on with my cargo lamp - but when I would check continuity between S48A-X1 pin 18 to its respective landing point on the X61A-X5 it triggers the factory relay… Instead I opted for a add-a-fuse on the passenger interior fuse panel (fuse location 10 - cargo lamp) and ran it through the boot on the driver side to my load. Did this to avoid introducing any electrical gremlins. Note: Please check for continuity between the S48A-X1 and the X61A-X5. In my case wire colours were not the same as other’s who have posted. To do a continuity check you need a Multimeter. Completely disassemble the S48A-X1 and remove the brown face plate off the X61A-X5 by way of a flat head screwdriver - this was the only way I could get any results. The outputs, terminal 87 of the relays, were fed into a junction box and landed at Individual studs and were labelled Aux 1-4. At this point, all you need to do is run wire to your loads and bring them to ground. I created a negative bus in the engine bay, all my negatives land here. For anyone having issues with all of your new aux switch lights coming on with the press of one - I noticed this only to be an issue when the battery wasn’t hooked up to my relays? No idea why, but it was quickly corrected by having my system buttoned up and functional.

Well I ordered the Autel ts508, and it won't work on my truck I tried all the 2023 and everything it just says vehicle not supported lol I'm able to send this unit back, so I'm going to do that, then I'll just stop into a some tire shops and if none of them are able to do it, I guess ill have to spend a bunch of money to get a good scanner..... Thanks GM lol

Don't need the air tube but that's how everyone sells them. Most places won't remove that one piece and sell it alone. No money to be made. Hoping someone swapped theirs out for a CAI and no longer wants it. Not asking anyone to give it away. Offering to buy it but I don't need the tube. It's held on by a hex head screw and nut. Been all over eBay.

Wait, you guys are changing your oil???

If you need that mount looking piece. You need the air tube. Cheapest one I see on eBay - 2007-2014 GM Silverado 1500 Air Cleaner Outlet Duct Assembly 5.3L OEM 15901934 | eBay Same price but free shipping - 2009-2014 CADILLAC ESCALADE 6.2L AIR CLEANER OUTLET DUCT ASSEMBLY 15901934 OEM | eBay

These are the other two I see listed. 15159494 15045503

I have the first one. That snaps into the piece mounted to the air tube. Look at the 3rd photo and you'll see the tab pushed into the hole that mounts to that other piece. Hard to see but that piece circled is help on by a screw and a nut. The bottom part has a whole drilled in it for the tab on the hose clamp to snap into. I'm assuming you all have CAI's?

What module exactly? They list two EBCM (electronic brake control module) for 2500HD (with or without adaptive cruise) and both show stock. Low stock, but stock none the less.

One of these? GM # is 15041307. Or. For some reason a couple years they show this on only the little hose to that duct spot. 15041309:

Apparently, its a Brake Module of some sort, which is backordered with no ETA. Thanks, GM.

Wow.....oil filters??? LOL!!

Facts tell the story, news agencies sometimes add spin. Some agencies more than others, and some have been found guilty of actually lying and making things up. If you think one or two agencies are the only ones who tell you the truth, more than likely you've only found your preferred flavor of spin, not a cornered market on factual information. And that's just as dangerous. Folks are going to lie to themselves anyway and form opinions which aren't based in reality or fact and they live amongst us.

Year/make/model/engine?????????????? From the looks of the piece you need, pushes into the airbox and then the big loop clips around the radiator hose? If you have a u-pull-it yard you could get just that piece and not the whole tube.

They will only sell the complete system. They don't let you pick things apart. $5 part or sell the whole thing for $150? Which do you think they want?

No, it is a screw with a nut holding that on. That is my friends truck. First photo is from online.

U joints? Transmission mount? 2wd or 4wd? If 4 it could be a transfer case problem. Welcome to the Forum!

Unauthorized use will turn your truck into a 1995 Chevy Cavalier. Use with caution? Can you get a refund?

Garbageee

Thanks for sharing. This is a nice nugget to have.

My TV remotes are fine, thanks.

As the title suggests, I have an unused General Motors authorization code for a set of bed perimeter lighting lamps that I bought. My truck was built with the option for perimeter lighting, and they worked without programming… So now I just have this code. What is it good for now? Can anyone here use it?

You can find PF63 and PF63F filters on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-PF63-GM-Original-Equipment/dp/B09RHSDX81/ref=sr_1_1?crid=4OQX91JYDO1T&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.YeKFFwDlEvIq8NtpzDXKZOYPE9Wb7dOhD81-cFJvM0UmP0YfeDVQ2KBAKGcPO4qEk_XMyhnRTBxTOGs7NPx8_zQMSeHZQp2ioF-ygHilLtuPs9irwf0K_rmLcWZogdRQrqidMUXW-LDj6d18aYD_ef7p4XBz25hp_LY0T_cl3tAmR8BoI48O854GOLinHwWJVGVhHAXuh1mhk7yVDbemx_TFNK-o53cBpdZJesAYu3U.7eKSD6sp5m7HKQHl8QuhX4E2_SoJAxuJDXosdcBDqzY&dib_tag=se&keywords=pf63%2Bacdelco%2Boil%2Bfilter&qid=1787057919&sprefix=pf63%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-1 https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-PF63F-Filter-Assembly/dp/B004SIUREE/ref=sr_1_14?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9._0V3idoBxN_3zdTkN3NoGAMq7e2ppPolmaO9ULwdFauE4HoFZHTYwbRycKmVkEy3ZWxFVHKrT9shU_yT821_pSLNmO4koGvxSS0zHK1bdoGEpIu2v9pV3Wz1kuSNXJBD9oau4SkVDh9-Xk1TTxbwDgvG7Y9L_nfeDhpYnQwF1SRz5JPvYzDZxu7PDW2xhYgJm_BWgHia9L0Yw3A8p9FgqVvORS7U7zq6Uh-SnZbPj5JRS-7rI1S5_R_4z4_QBQXwOWBbHdj26igibYN0JcABpgTRyuqNvoA3igX9mzi1F-Y.Nhnl9Y2T9htYr47bKYSdQ96qHIhjqeLcpD0nyIIszfk&dib_tag=se&qid=1787058550&refinements=p_123%3A213202&rnid=85457740011&s=automotive&sr=1-14&srs=21393605011

I have a 2000 Silverado 1500 LS, whenever I put it into reverse and also in drive it clunks, the truck also feels sluggish when driving. Any advice/ideas ?

Looks like it's riveted to me. What is wrong with that 1? Welcome to the Forum!