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This is the 6.6 gasser section of the forum, you should either delete or modify your previous post as it is misleading for anyone looking for factual information on their 6.6 gas engine.

Well....I've done my first intake gasket. Probably wrong, but...we'll see? Ultra black on the china walls and 1/4" up onto the sides of the intake gaskets. Permatex High Tack (couldn't find Gaskachinch) on the head side of the intake gasket. I read wrong and it says you're supposed to put it on the mating surface of the head, not the gasket. Hoping it's like a PB&J sandwich where it doesn't matter what side the PB goes on so long as there's jelly. That crap is messy/sticky and I got a dab or two on the intake port openings, tried to wipe it off. Hopefully it won't be a big deal and will only aid in sealing. Per instructions I left the intake (top side) of the gasket dry except for a light smear of RTV around the coolant ports. Wiggling the intake in there was a bear but I had help to free me of surrounding wiring/stuff but I was basically able to set it straight down lined up with the bolt holes. I did not think to wait until the RTV skinned over but there probably was 5-10 minutes while it sat before installing the intake. Bolts finger tight first. Then, followed the Chilton's manual pattern to snug them to 15 lb-ft. Waited a little over an hour, and then did the final torque in sequence again to 35 lb-ft. Yesterday I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and got my new "nut and bolt kit" (fuel lines) installed. Damn GM used security torx on the spider, which I don't have, so I got scammed at the local HW store for an off-brand security Torx bit set. The new driver's door mirror arrived yesterday, so, there's a chance this thing could be running and road legal tomorrow? I don't want to get my hopes up. This will be my first time stabbing a distributor, too. Although, lucky me, someone else marked the old distributor for removal previously, I did see that. (Someone's been here before!!). Engine is still at TDC so it *should* be just a matter of transferring the mark to the new dizzy and rotating it into place.

He has his dad’s newer truck he’s put away. He has several old cars he rotates between him and his family. I’ve seen a restored square body and a SS Chevy truck he’s sometimes drives. He did raffle off a new suburban recently. As much as he is watched if he drove new stuff as a rule we’d know it. It would be fine by me. I don’t care what people prefer. I got one more new one in me. I’d rather my wife get one. I can’t get her out of the Genesis. Don’t tell anyone. I want her to get an electric truck. I want to put a generator in the back. Just because. She hasn’t bit yet.

Yes, you must have seen my thread on the Blazer. HOT GARBAGE, but I love them anyway. I'm convinced every car guy has a soft sport for an S/T series somewheres. Probably even a Panther too, if I'm being an honest car guy. That doesn't mean they aren't junk. And they definitely don't get better with age. I sometimes play with old cars, but that's by choice. I don't rely on them and they aren't my everyday fleet. Derek plays the common man on Youtube and that's no doubt where he started. Now he has Youtube money (and Motortrend, etc). You think his crews and his wife ride around in old beaters when they're chasing him and his wrecks across the country? No he's got newer and nicer stuff for that, you'll see glimpses of it in the footage.

You refuse to own anything made in this century yet you reportedly own... a 2007 Silverado, which is now almost 20 years old. The dissonance.... turn up your hearing aid? You clearly don't understand the government contracting process, brother. We send people to die on front lines, keep the public safe, and make people's husbands, wives, children enter burning buildings with equipment from .....wait for it..... ...the lowest bidder.... Just because something is used for a long time doesn't mean it's good. But it might be cheap and plentiful. Please, continue to whine about new trucks in a thread dedicated to new trucks, which you've said you'll never own. We get it. Go tell everyone how you're stuck in time on a Panther forum. I mean, Jesus, an 86 isn't even one of the good Panthers.

It really is comical when people don’t agree or see the reason some people prefer the older vehicles. They become condescending. All the while they may be busting their knuckles on old vehicles. I have found memories of swapping out engines in my old GM cars in a weekend without much hassle. Unlike today. One wrong move a computer will shut you down. Even on something as easy as a brake job. There’s a pretty comical YouTuber called the car wizard. A garage owner who puts it all in perspective. Another Vicegrip garage that’s shows just how tough the old stuff is.

I was around and remember that era very well, so I'm calling b/s on that statement. If they were that bad no police department or taxi company would've bought a single one ... but they were used in both services (and fire) for DECADES. They were bulletproof and proven. Even the early 21st century ones weren't too bad! The early models were legendary. Mine is proof, but people like atlas are blinded by agenda and refuse to believe facts right before their very eyes. Even decades after they were built, a new generation started driving them, posting all their builds and shenanigans on Grandmarq.net and Crownvic.net. The failures would show up then, since they all were deep past 100k-150k miles by that point, and younger drivers tend to be a little aggressive, especially with vehicles than can lay a one-tire fire for as long as you hold your foot in it. They've more than proven themselves over the decades. The only thing that'll really take them out is road salt. The bodies and sheet metal were garbage. A victim of the cheapout FoMoCo and GM have been partaking in before then, and since. Today it's the stuff that counts - the undercarriage that rots away first! GMs Caprice was no slouch either. Reliable as a stone ax - the opposite of what they build now.

Let me know how your vehicles do in 10 years. You don't know ******, kid. There's a reason that Panther platform was used as police, fire, and taxi service for DECADES ... long before you were born, apparently.

If your connector also has a big lever to get the connector on and off, you don't want to force the lever either way, as it becomes a bigger problem if you bust the lever or the mechanism it works.

It's just useful to disconnect the battery to prevent odd shorting out when unplugging/plugging stuff together. I also touch the two cable ends together (after disonnecting) to drain the small amount of stored battery energy in various modules. I believe the main system where you need to be more concerned with, so you need to do the above and then wait some time, iss when you are working on the air bag system, to prevent inadvertent firing of the air bags. The in-cab switches are just that, plain switches, it's generally not a problem to swap them in/out. For my '12, I'll get an error message on the dash if I power up the truck w them unplugged, but that's it (power up= turn the ignition on). The ITBC located above the spare tire is a computer that manages the trailer brake system. That is probably more important to have the battery disconnected. It does have to be programmed to the truck, either before or after it's installed, for it to work. For my '12, I had a very hard time reinstalling the main connector to it (IDK if yours is the same or not), it turned out the silicon seal was jamming up, preventing it from going on all the way. I finally got it fully installed by lubing the seal with a bit of dielectric grease, then it slid on and latched in place easily.

JR ! I just got the truck back from the Dealership today . The technician did a cold remote start on the truck this morning and it made the noise . It was determined that it was a starter issue and replaced it under warranty . Of course it did not make the sound after a new starter was put in because the truck was not cold . We will we see what happens tomorrow morning when I start the truck cold . Keep tuned ! Oh I found a video on YouTube of a cold start and it did the same thing your truck and mine do , I will see if I can find it and post it up

Thank you JR ! Here's hoping you can post the video with sound

Looks about right given the data provided. Could it be better? Perhaps. But in spec isn't going to get it that way under warranty.

'22 Sierra 2500HD. Just want to confirm, Am about to replace the Trailer Brake Control Module (the thing above the spare tire), and then may replace the Trailer Brake Controller (in-dash device). I understand, at least for the Module replacement, that the vehicle battery needs to be disconnected. So, a couple questions - Is it necessary to disconnect the battery for both procedures? - Is there a difference, in any resultant electronic issues, on how long a battery is disconnected? IE does it matter if the battery is disconnected for an hour as opposed to over night? - And, for replacement of both items, is there a requirement to "re-boot" any system(s). I have been led to believe that the Module is less of an issue than the Controller, but it has been suggested that a trip to the dealer may be necessary after the Controller is replaced. Any advice is welcome. Marv

I usually upload to youtube then paste the link here. I haven't done it here but it worked on other forums.

^^^What he said.^^^

Just buy and extended warranty and don’t worry about anything else.

I agree with Tim. As tech heavy as engines are these days, no way I’d be an early buyer of the new 6.6. Of course, I bought my ‘26 Denali w/the 6.2 after dumping my Tundra with it’s defective 3.5 liter imploding engine disaster, so I’m a little gun-shy. That said, my 6.2 has been rock solid. I don’t drive it like I do my BMW Z4 M40i, but I don’t baby it either. I got a V8 for a reason. But I’m averaging 18 around town and 22 highway. I have seen 24 highway as well when I wasn’t loaded up heavy. Considering my Tundra with the twin turbo V6 only got 14.5 in town and 17 on the road, I’ll take the 6.2 all day, every day. If I were you, I’d grab a ‘26 while you can. Inventories are probably gonna start dropping and I’ll bet the deals will start looking sweeter as well.

I am curious if anyone has figured out a way to add an hard button AUX or 360 Camera switch to the center row of switches. I have a 2021 AT4, and want to split the hill decent button and add a 360 camera button so that you don't have to go into the center display and locate the camera functionality, etc... My father's 2024 Yukon XL AT4 and it has a hard button, see below. I found this thread on the Yukons, but it seems like there may not be a part number for the 2021 sierras. https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/255339-adding-hard-button-for-camera-on-2021/ Anyone else figured this out. Seems like it would need to be a custom switch! I am getting ready to install the auto stop/start eliminator, so would be nice to knock them out at once. Upvote1Downvote0Go to comments

Looks like the entire state is burning.

Through the years it hasn't been my typical method as I tried to drop oil on an engine that was hot from having been worked, however that was not always practical and had to fire up a unit and let it warm up reasonably well and drop the oil when I had the time to do it but am referring to not only vehicles but a variety of farm equipment and highway tractors etc. However on a vehicle where one is crawling under it and the exhaust is nearby to ones body and if wanting to pull the plug without danger of being hit with boiling hot oil or attempting to remove a HOT oil filter, its sure safer and easier to not have everything smoking hot and can remove the filter right away when under the vehicle and let it all drain. Of course its not the end of the world if a bit of oil stays in the engine that might have eventually found its way out, I like to get out as much as possible but any oil changes that take place in shops would rarely be sitting around for very long at all before the plug is thrown back in and filter slapped on and oil poured in and sent out the door quick like. There would be very little time spent ( assuming they even did it ) in starting the engine with oil to fill the filter, then waiting to verify the level on the stick. A good reason to check ones oil level shortly after a shop changed the oil on a vehicle just to make sure its correct and to look under for any oil around the drain plug or filter.

Cool to see another Vermonter!

To many wildfires.

I have changed oil and filter for years by starting a cold engine to warm oil up, let it run 5-10 minutes depending on temperature. Drain until it starts dripping, refill with quantity from owners manual or get it close.

I changed the factory fill oil in the rear diff of my truck for the first time today and the miles is close to 9000 on the truck. There was a lot of fines on the magnet, a very thick layer but working it through my fingers it all felt like mush and as most know it appears like graphite, so no surprise chunks anyway. Certainly was time to do it from my thinking and could have been done sooner but the oil didn't look awful but sure wasn't new looking and never expected it to either. I did use some solvent to help me clean out the bottom area of the axle housing, just get any other stuff settled at the bottom washed and wiped out of the housing for the bit of effort it takes. I used Amsoil Severe Gear 75W90 in the easy packs to try out what they are like and I used up 4 packs and didn't spill much at all in the process but did take all four of the packs and go to the work bench and emptied them into a measuring container and there certainly was some in them that added up to something, then poured that into one of the easy packs and squirted in what I could get out of it. I would say the level is within 1/8th of an inch of being level with the threads at the fill plug so just the perfect amount. Once again, more than what GM says the fill volume is but computes with what others are adding to their rear diffs as well.