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I don't know why everybody thinks it's ONE thing that is causing everybody's problems. It's likely that everybody is experiencing different problems - or several different problems. There is not one magic fix that will fix everybody's tuck. For some people it's tires. For some it'll be shocks, driveshaft, tranny, rear end, axles, etc. Each of you just need to be pushy and persistent to get the dealer and/or GM to resolve. If they can't/won't fix it, push for a buy back. There are several instances on this site of buy backs, so it does happen if you truly have a problem. But if you just sit around and wait and complain, your truck will never be fixed. I know dealing with the dealership and GM is a hastle, but it you want it fixed or a new truck, you have to do it. Otherwise, deal with it or trade your truck in on a different one. And I'm sorry to those who think otherwise, a vibration is not a safety issue that will prompt the NHTSA to get involved.

Here's my new Silverado. Wasn't planning on getting a 2014 but when I found out they had cancelled Blue Topaz Metallic, I had to get one. Love this color. As for the missing Silverado emblems on the doors of the Texas Editions, I'm the inventory manager at a Chevy dealer and this is something GM started doing mid-year on Texas Edition equipped trucks. My truck was built before they started this but every Texas Edition we have gotten in for the past 6-8 months has not had Silverado on the doors.

I meant buying them back voluntarily, not only when forced by the consumer protection laws. And repairing them before selling them to another unsuspecting sucker. That's the only ethical thing to do.

No,the front amp/crossover and a self powered sub have separate power leads. They can be separated if you already have the bose system.

Yes, I did say torque. Some manufactures claim that you will gain HP and TQ. For example: This is what corsa says about their exhaust for the 2014 Tundra Tips: Single Side Exit Twin 4.0" Polished Pro-Series Sound: Sport (CLICK TO LEARN MORE) Flow: Average of 16% gain over stock Power Gains: Average increase of up to 3 HP and 9 TQ Technology: CORSA's Patented RSC® Technology is designed for an AGGRESSIVE SOUND under acceleration and a DRONE-FREE EXPERIENCE during cruise. Every system is engineered specifically to each vehicle without drone while cruising. I'm not saying I agree but Magnaflow claims TQ gains on the 2014 Silverado with this exhaust http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/shopexd.asp?zone=all&id=3223 http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/displayapplications.asp?partnumber=17148 CHEVROLET TRUCK SILVERADO 1500 Stainless Cat-Back System PERFORMANCE EXHAUSTModel # 17148 Material: 100% Stainless Steel Tubing O.D. Size: 3in. System Type: Cat-Back TIP O.D. Size: TIP Quantity: Single/Dual: Single Exit Position: TURN DOWN IN FRONT OF REAR TIRE Features and Benefits: Lifetime Warranty, Dyno Tested And Proven To Make Power, Performance Gains In Horsepower And Torque, Great Sound -Has A Smooth; Deep Tone, Easy To Install, Mandrel-Bent. All Welded. Built To Last.

What details are you looking for? The GM/Borla exhaust is the only one with a flapper and bypass pipe to help with drone and resonance issues... All other cat back systems are a crap shoot as to whether or not you will get any of theses issues. Chambered mufflers seem to be worse in this department...but that isn't in stone. Drone and resonance are something of a personal taste nature...what your ears find pleasing or not....some don't mind it and others hate it.

I don't think so. The bed on mine sits 3/4" higer on the drivers side. All 3 pickup trucks that I've owned came from the factory with beds that sat higher on the drivers side. They don't do it because the fuel tank is on that side either because with a full tank of fuel it still sits 3/4" higher. I don't think its related to this issue.

Ok, I just had a good talk with the guy at TRS. In simple english - Capacitor link kit - better reliability due to the dedicated 12v / grounding....it's that simple. They said although Cabus will work, they would not recommend it as you could have issues down the road.

Ok, lemme see if I can do this. The "relay" kits include a relay, which is essentially an electrically operated switch. The old, small wires which used to power your halogen lights act as the input to this relay, similar to your hand flipping a wall switch, to turn it on. The relay, in turn, send nice, clean, no canbus power directly from the batter, through the relay, to your HID ballasts. The ballasts like this. The caps are usually necessary to keep the old bulb single that turns on the relay nice, clean, and canbus free so the relay doesn't chatter. Without it, it's kinda like the wall switch analogy except you've got a really shaky arm and you don't just flip the switch on, but you jiggle it (just a little bit, c'mon now jiggle it...) on and off very quickly making the lights flicker. Now, you can, as our friend here has done, forget the relays and just power the ballasts directly from the old bulb harness so when the truck decides to turn on the lights, it actually just sends power to the ballasts instead of the bulbs, and the ballasts in turn power the HID bulbs. This can work too, but it isn't as desirable as you still have to use the caps to get the canbus out so the ballasts don't freak out, and the wires are small, truck may think the buls are out without load, etc. etc. This helpful at all?

I had a 2000 sierra once. When I traded it in they said the truck was great, except for the rusted frame. The cab corners and rockers on that truck were gone as well. My current truck is a 2006 sierra z71. It currently has 158,000 on it. With no rust on it period. When I purchased the truck two years ago, I sprayed the inside of the cab corners, rocker panels, wheel wells, and doors with a spray lubricant called fluid film. Fluid film is a rust prevention/corrosion protection. You can also buy a hose attachment for it to be able to reach those hard to reach places. Lot of people use it for under coating on their frame to help prevent rust or corrosion. If you live a state where they use salt on the roads like I do, I suggest using this product a couple times a year. If will definitely help. Also it can't be washed off, and it doesn't harm paint. The rhino liner or under coating gm sprays on their vehicles frames is just junk. You can scratch it right off. Also like the last person said. If you live in a salt belt wash at least twice a week. Fluid film is carried at a lot of different places. Autozone, car quest and tractor places. In bulk or spray cans. Fluidfilm.com Also maybe buy a ford! Lol

Driver side Passenger side is under the air box there's a small pocket that I'd figure would keep it safer

This is my opinion only, but this is what GM should do: If they cannot fix your truck under waranty they should buy it back at full purchase price. Then they should take these trucks apart at one of their reaserch and development facilities, and find the root cause of the vibration problems and eliminate them. Then they would also have low mileage trucks, now repaired to sell at a good price to recoup their losses to some extent. This would be fair to everyone and would help GM to avoid similar pitfalls in the future.

CANbus is a device level communications protocol often implemented in vehicles and other machinery to allow low-ish speed communication between numerous devices using the same two wires used to also carry power. What u get is DC with a high frequency AC signal superimposed over the top. Most CANbus devices have a capacitor (which blocks DC and passes AC) inside to separate power and signal into two lines inside the device. In the case of our trucks, it allows communication between different engine and body sensors with only two wires. MUCH better diagnostics while saving weight and expense. CANbus eliminators have a cap and (most likely) a resistor to essentially bypass the AC around our HID's and fake a halogen-like load. This keeps the ballasts from flipping out over the AC (which they don't like) and keeps the truck happy because it still sees a bulb load thinking everything's ok. A relay harness is entirely different as it takes the truck's CANbus loaded signal going to the original Bulbs as the input to turn the relay itself on, which in turn sends nice, clean, battery DC straight to the ballasts directly from the battery. If u have an original CANbus or low PWM (pulse width modulated) DRL bulb signal trying to turn on this relay, well it can chatter/pulse and generally get all upset like then HID ballasts do. So having a relay harness doesn't preclude the need for a cap or CANbus eliminator device.

It's an easy install. The only "non plug n play" items are you do need to drill holes in the back of the headlight housing covers for the wires, you'll need to find a +12V source and a decent ground location if you use the HID relay harness (and I recommend you do). I wouldn't consider these items plug n play, but they are also very, very easy. A novice should have no difficulty whatsoever.

Lol!!!

This is from HID planet, this will help you with aiming the headlights. basically park 25ft in front of the wall and get directly in front of one side projector. then walk in a straight line towards the wall. when you get there, the / should be shining right in the middle of you. that is the proper aiming. the distance between the two // should always be the same as the distance between the two hid projector units in the headlamps. this may help

2014 SIERRA SLT FOG LIGHTS WITH HIGH BEAM HEADLIGHTS MODIFICATION This mod will let you use the fog lights on low beam same as factory. On and off with the fog light button. When the fog lights are turned on while on low beam, then the high beams are either flashed or turned on and then off, the fog lights remain on when going back to low beam. When the high beams headlights are switched on, the fog lights come on also. You cannot shut the fog lights off with the high beams on. When going back to low beam, the fog lights go off if they were off prior to switching high beams on. Find the BCM under the dash, just to the left side of the steering column, right behind and above the OBD2 connector. It's a black box about 7" square and an inch thick. It will have 7 connectors in the lower edge of various colors. Pull the BROWN connector loose. There is a little tab you need to squeeze inward to release it. Look at it closely, there are tiny numbers at the corners to give you pin location reference. Use my attached connector photo and the numbers on the connector, along with the colors of the wires to locate the proper wires. Locate pin #10 with the Brown and White striped wire. This is the Fog light signal wire for the relay. Locate pin #18 with the Brown and Violet striped wire. This is the High Beam signal wire for its relay. Take a 1N4004 diode and push the wire lead of the diode in along side the wires with a pair of needle nose pliers. You need to push hard to get it to slide in about 1/4" so it will stay snug. Make sure the marked end of the diode (stripe) is toward the High Beam. You can put a piece of electrical tape over the bare diode leads or you can slip a piece of heat shrink over the diode before you install it and shrink it after pushing it in. But there's really no need as these are switched Ground leads, not power. Put the BROWN connector back in the BCM. YOU'RE DONE. THAT'S IT. The BCM is behind this area This is the BCM. In this picture, my arrows point to the rows to intersect the proper wires. The diagram below shows the connector oriented as you see it in the photo above so you can locate the correct pins. Rectifier Diodes are available at any electronics store or Radio Shack. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2036270&znt_campaign=Category_CMS&znt_source=CAT&znt_medium=RSCOM&znt_content=CT2032230

This may not be as loud as your looking for, but it does sound good. Link is not showing up on mobile version? Sent from my XT1053 using Tapatalk