Everything posted by latreille89
Easiest route is to find a donor truck and test it. Figure out if it’s the trailer or the truck. Otherwise, you better have some knowledge in testing the system if you don’t want to bring it into a shop and pay.
Has anyone had their rear wheel wells sprayed with LineX? I had mine sprayed before I picked up the truck from the dealer last summer, come to find out this spring they didn't spray to the edge of the fender and left paint exposed. It started chipping too. My other issue is that it has runs in it, like spray paint does if you spray it on too thick. We brought it over to the linex location and they kept being persistent that its normal because its a tight area and you can't avoid the runs. Texture is really smooth as well because, again, they can't spray it to get the textured look like the bed. So since it's normal (not that I believe it), can anyone confirm?
Installed Bilstein 5100s in front and back. Set them at the 2.5 mark in front. 2.25” Readylift blocks in back. New BF KO2 tires all around. Just waiting for my alignment appointment.
2" factory lift, rims/tires, gearing... all of those will change the mileage ratings.
I honestly think it does fine on the highway but hey, I came from a 2012 Sierra with the 4.8 that I bought new and drove for 9 years.. my duramax feels like a little rocket compared to my 4.8
It came with it from the factory, it's not a 20" rim, its a 17 I think but the overall tire size is 33". I think it's an automatic thing when the 275/60/20 is optioned for the truck.
I guess I never heard anyone I know complain about the noise with these tires. I'll probably end up running KO2's, they run around the same price here as any other tire and I've always liked them. Is the size that's of concern. I think the 275/65 is the best route, rather not risk rubbing with the 285.
I'd suggest not running those nice 22's in the off seasons and just getting some steelies in a smaller rim? Biggest regret on my last truck was running my rims through the winters so I bought winter tires and rims this time around.
It's just typical GM leaf springs. Every truck since my 98 has done it. Homemade fix, but bicycle tubes, cut them in like 6" lengths and spread the springs apart to slip them between. Acts like a rubber insulator and I only had to replace them every 3-4 years. Haven't done it to the new truck yet but I'm sure I will in the summer.
I've got just over 6000km not have still almost 2/3 on the DEF gauge. I'm not even considering it an extra cost. I understand towing makes it drink a bit more but everyday driving, I don't think it uses much at all. Oil changes on the other hand, that's pricy here up north at $15 a qt.
Does anyone know of red 7443 bulbs that have the resisters built in? Or are we stuck buying bulbs and installing inline resisters? Had no problem finding the front amber for the turn signals.
Planning on sticking with the stock 20" wheels on my 2021 Silverado. Currently have the 275/60/20 stock rubber on it. I have Bilstein 5100s on order for the front to raise it up 2" and have 2" blocks ready to go in the rear as well. Just want some opinions if it's worth going up to a 35" or just stick with the 34" and opinions on the tires. I've run K02's on almost every truck I've had but only really because of the winter performance. I've got a separate set of rims and winters for this truck so winter performance isn't important anymore. And yes, I can use a search function but it's so bloated with random results, I don't have a week to sort through it.
You’re only going to void something that breaks due to the level, which really shouldn’t be anything. I’ve run levels on alL my gm trucks and usually it’s way out of warranty before fixing ball joints and stuff. Id save the money, fix what breaks. You’re going to be ahead. As for tires, anything up to 34” in height you should be fine on stock rims. I’ve heard some running 35’s but that may only be the Silverado’s. These trucks come stock with 33’s in some cases such as mine.
Looking into it more, I'm thinking of buying the outlet, hollowing it our and buying a recessed desk plug or something and fitting that in there. You can just plug that right into the inverter. It'll look stockish when the cover is down.
Has anyone has success adding the plug to the dash with the factory plug, and tapped into it with a standard 400w or lower aftermarket inverter? The plug is 30-40 bucks it self, so to retain a factory look really isn't much of a cost over just using the outlets on the inverter. The wiring is there is behind the dash, so it you I would assume you could cut them to have the connectors for the back of the factory plug and run them to the inverter. Having trouble finding anyone that's done this.
Find a spot to install a second muffler. Better yet, buy a Duramax and install a muffler… I find it so weird there’s no muffler on my truck and it’s that quiet. And yeah, I know. It’s all the emissions stuff up at the engine doing it.
Looking at going with a b&w adjustable hitch. Reviews seem amazing on them. Wanted to know if anyone here is running one and what length they went with, 5 or 7” drop? I’ll be putting a 2” level and 2” rear block on the truck next month, but still not sure if a 7 will drop too low and get hung up on inclines. My trailers will level out around 4.5-5 drop that I pull now once I have the lift but I also don’t want to buy a 5 and possibly need the extra drop down at some point but if a 7 will catch, it’s kinda useless anyways.
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