Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

4 Neutral

About Xenawise

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Name
    Carl Miles
  • Location
    Rio Rancho, NM
  • Gender
  • Drives
    2016 GMC Sierra Denali 1500 4x4 White Frost Tricoat

Recent Profile Visitors

1,620 profile views
  1. You should be able to extend or retract the motors on the individual running boards by applying +12V and Ground to the thick gauge wires going to the connector on the running board. Don't connect to the module connectors, connect to the running board connectors. You will only see two thick gauge wires, those are the motor wires. The rest of the wires are for the sensors and kick switch. These thick gauge wires go to the motor and depending on the polarity you hook up, the motor will extend or retract. Hook +12V to one wire, and ground the other. The motor should work and the board will extend or retract. If it extends, then just reverse the wires to the connector and the motor will retract. Xenawise
  2. I think you want part number: 23180142 SWITCH, VEHICLE STABILITY CONTROL SYSTEM(BLACK CARBON)(5 BUTTON BANK) Fitting Vehicle Options CK1(43)(BRS,JF4,UD7)(EXC JHD,UHX) This has 5 buttons, BRS= Power Assist Steps, JF4= Power Adjust Pedals, UD5/UD7= Sensor Indicator - Parking Assist I believe all the button banks have the Traction Control Switch and the Cargo Lamp Switch. Xenawise
  3. More info since SoonerTA has asked me: The cheapest wiring harness with the BRS running board wiring harness inside that I could find is part number 84006174. You also will need the interior switch bank with the seven switches so you can turn the running boards on or off and that part number is 23180146 (fully loaded 8 switch bank - others are available). I purchased them through www.mygmwholesaleparts.com, best price and shipping rate I could find. Delivered in two days! Excellent service from these guys! Xenawise
  4. Don't know of any dummy plugs to go into the harness. Guess you could just get some harness tape or electrical tape and tape them shut. Maybe pull the fuse for the running boards unless you are using the same circuit for the AMP boards. Be careful if you ship them out to someone in the closed state. During shipping, the running boards may push into the stops and bend the boards at that area. That's what happened to mine. Not a big deal, but it could of been avoided if the boards were extended a bit outward. What are folks doing with these running boards once they get them off? Anyone looking to sell? Xenawise
  5. I would recommend that you open the door on the side you are going to remove so the steps come out. Then you can unplug the harness to the motor on that step and begin removing the bolts that hold it to the frame. These are pretty heavy so you will need to support the step as you remove it. It is much heavier on the front end of the steps where the motor assembly is. It is pretty easy to get all the bolts out. You will probably ship the boards if you sell them in the extended state as this will help prevent any damage to them. That is how they are shipped out from a GM dealer as well. The harness you detach from will stay with your truck. It is part of the main chassis harness and you cannot remove it (without a lot of difficulty). I think there were like a dozen bolts that hold the boards to the bottom of the cab. Some are higher up and go through the motor mountings and some are on the lower lip of the running board frame. Just make sure you support the boards so you don't damage them once they come loose from the cab. I think they weigh in around 60-70lbs per board. I suppose you are replacing these perhaps with some AMP boards? Are you looking to sell these take off boards? I might be interested if the price is right. Good luck with the removal and enjoy your new 2017 Denali! Regards, Xenawise Here is a parts book blow-up of the system. Does not show all of the mounting points but #19 and #26 are the main bolts. #4 is the frame that all these bolts will go through.
  6. Nice lights on the boards. Would be interested in learning more about them. How you hooked them up, what kind of lights they are, etc. I also see you have the lighted door handles. I have my handles, just need to get them painted and then do all the wonderful wiring. I might wire them up to the door switch night lamps. that way, they will come on and stay on even when you are moving. I believe the interior door switches illuminate when you unlock the vehicle and stay lit for a while when you remote lock the vehicle. In any case, awesome work there and congrats on a sweet looking truck! Xenawise
  7. The kick buttons have a separate wire harness that runs the length of the boards and plugs into the motor harness which plugs into the control module. You can unplug this harness from the motor harness, and maybe that is just not plugged in. If the boards extend when you open the doors, then you should be able to tap the kick switch and the boards should articulate to the rear position for bed access. The close the door and they should fully retract. Then tap the kick button again and they should articulate from the fully retracted position to the fully rearward position. If the boards show disabled, then yes, they would not extend when the doors are opened/closed, but they might still work when you press the kick button. I have not really tried that scenario, so I am not sure. Good job on getting them installed and working! It's a lot of work but I think it makes the truck much more streamlined than having the factory running boards sticking out all the time. Xenawise
  8. Hopefully Tleesmith14 will report his success or failure with the switch he ordered. I know when I did mine, the wire was already there in the switch harness. I find it interesting that the Running Board Disable wire was already existing in the LT harness. It does seem this could be used for a couple of different options so as long as you are using only one option at a time maybe it will work just fine. Perhaps the OP could also order the switch and see if it works for him as well. I know when I did my conversion, I was already working with a Denali, so if there is BCM programming needed, it already had it. I do get DIC messages when the boards are disabled or enabled, so I would be interested to see if this happens on the lower trim trucks as well. Anyway, this is not an "easy" modification to do, but if you have the means, the case and know something about the wiring of these trucks, you can certainly do this. Props to the OP for all the raw terminal and connector part numbers! I was having a rough time finding these and by the time I purchased all of it along with the wire and my time to build the harnesses from scratch, I kind of cheated and just purchased a new truck harness (cheapest I could find with the BRS option) and stripped out the running board harness from the rest of the harness. That way I had all the proper connectors and everything was hooked up exactly as the factory would do it including the harness that runs over to the passenger running board and all the mounting hardware so you can just push the wire harness retainers into the existing holes in the chassis for the passenger side. Even with the factory harness, you do have de-pin the +12v battery voltage wire, the GMLAN wire and the disable wire from the new harness, but you don't have to crimp any new connectors and only have to take the fuse box apart and just slide in the connectors in the trucks existing harness. So much easier for someone who would be challenged making up their own harness (and crimping the connectors and getting the "right" crimper tool and de-pin tool(s) which are a bit costly for a one-time job). Just goes to show that there is always more than one way to skin a cat! Also, excellent video describing this process! I only wish I could do such as good a job as you did. Major props! Xenawise
  9. 23180146 is the part number you are looking for the switch with all the options you list. Xenawise
  10. More info since BrianABP has asked me: The cheapest wiring harness with the BRS running board wiring harness inside that I could find is part number 84006174. You also will need the interior switch bank with the seven switches so you can turn the running boards on or off and that part number is 23180146. I purchased them through www.mygmwholesaleparts.com, best price and shipping rate I could find. Delivered in two days! Excellent service from these guys! Xenawise
  11. Bringing this back from the grave... Just wanted to let everyone know that I have successfully installed the factory Tri-Mode Power Running Boards on my '16 Denali. It can be done without any programming, but looking into the BCM programming from the factory, looks like the SLT and the Denali share the same base code so this "should" work on a SLT as well given the wiring is there. Probably won't work on a base or SLE trim truck without programming (as you do get DIC messages in the cluster when you enable or disable the boards and they have different base code for the BCM). You will need to tap into 4 places on the underhood harness. One is the Data Bus wire and another is the signal to the running board module to disable/enable the running boards. There is also power and ground to contend with. If you get the running boards without the wiring harness (very likely unless you can get the harness from a junkyard truck), I had to purchase the cheapest body wiring harness with the BRS Running Board option and strip it out of the harness and use it for my truck. This gets you all the correct connectors and the harness that goes over to the right side of the truck for the passenger running board (along with all the mounting hardware already integrated into the harness). So, this is not really an inexpensive option (I have about $1,100 into this endeavor along with my time), but just want to say that yes, it can be done without programming and just adding in 4 wires to the trucks factory harness (along with stripping the running board harness from a donor harness). I will add some pictures soon as well. I also ordered the correct dash switch (has seven switches vs. my original which only had six) which has the running board enable/disable switch and it is plug and play as well. No need to add any wiring to my truck at least. It was already preexisting. Been working problem free now for over 4 months (did not want to post this too early in case something did end up going wrong). As these only came available in the '16 and up trucks, I am sure the question will come up if these boards can be used on earlier model years (like '14 and '15) as well as maybe the HD trucks. I doubt you can use it on the '14 or '15 without some BCM programming magic as the option did not exist from the factory in those models so there would be no CAL that included the feature. If you could get the '16 CAL into a '14 or '15 BCM and actually have it work, then maybe it would work, but who knows what else you might break in the process. I am sure GTPrix (Chris) would be able to mash something that would work, but that would be some custom BCM programing. As for the HD trucks, I am not sure their either. If the '16 or later trucks use the same BCM base code as the LD truck, then it should have the code there as well for the running boards even though there were never offered as an option on the HD's. So, I am confident that this will work in a GMC Sierra SLT or Denali truck from '16 thru '18. Not sure on the Chevy side. If the LTZ and High Country share the same base code in the BCM, then again it will work on these trucks. If you have any questions, let me know. I will answer them as best as I can. And Happy New Year! Xenawise
  12. Why are you taking the Tri-Mode running boards off? Putting on AMPs? If so I might be interested in picking up another set. Xenawise
  13. New to Forum

    Sweet Ride! Denali Ultimate!
  14. How much for the OEM tri-mode running boards? Willing to ship to 87124 zip? Thanks, Xenawise
  15. HUD in Silverado/Sierra

    How did you end up mounting the HUD unit in the dash and how is the display on the windshield glass? Is it crisp or does it still have noticeable ghosting? Did you have to fabricate some mounting points for the HUD unit to the dash frame? Regards, Xenawise

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.