How about the fact that Toyota's biggest plant in the world is in Kentucky? Does that make those cars "American". As far as that goes there's Honda, VW, BMW, Subaru and Mercades all have plants in the USA
We've had several nights below freezing and my 5.3 with original factory oil, I only have 4500 miles on it, starts fine but the rods rattle for a second or two. I might ask the dealer if they'll put in 5W and if so get the first free change early. After reading the above link is it possible the extended crank times were intentional for oil pressure to rise and since it does not list 2017's maybe they took it out. Are they talking fuel pump or oil pump, not really too clear. Joe
At only 4,444 miles today it still has the original factory fill of 0w20 The oil level has not gone down. After the first two free changes I might entertain switching to something a little heavier or an additive My daughter in laws Honda Pilot that havs variable timing and cylinder deactivation calls for 0w20 and my son started using 5w30 with good results.
How far aback does this bulletin go? This problem has been around since they started using this transfer case in 07 I have a NBS 2007 Z71 and have experienced this message every winter since I got it 3 years ago. Today was our first cold spell at 27f and the truck was left in 2wd and on startup there was the all too familiar message After it warmed up a restart seemed to clear the message. thanks Joe
My 07 Z71 has a locking rear differential besides HD suspension, 17" mag rimsthat with LT trim are upgraded to 4 18" ones, tow hooks and other things. I think that Z71 is mainly 4x4 option package for 1500 You can nicely ask the dealer service/parts people for a printout of the build sheet of your VIN. If it were a Jeep you could ask for it on line. Joe
Check out their towing videos at this place and their "Hitch Hints". In hitch hints read up on "understanding ball mount angles". They explain what happens on emergency maneuvers and how the bars react. I attended a rally where a father and son both had 17' Casita trailers (3000#) and towed with a Passat TDI and Camery V6 with their receivers, unbelievable. The Suburban towing an Air Stream video is as close to a PU as they get but stress using LT tires and not oversize car tires. http://www.canamrv.ca/towing/ They seem to like "old school" WDH's I ditched the rusty OEM Class III receiver on my 07 that I could tell flexed a lot with a new class IV receiver and there was a lot of difference
It boils down to usage and climate and we have winter in Ohio. Before retiring I drove 35k miles a year easily and went 10k between changes on many various VW diesels. But now I'm retired and my trips are short and on most the engine doesn't get to normal operating temperature. So I change it spring and fall and it works out to 3k miles. And as I mentioned I get a "tick" with 63% oil usage remaining so it gets clean oil. 10k changes are good for some but not others. I listen when the engine talks to me. Wasting money I don't think so compared to wasting a cam shaft and lifters. I suspect buying oil every 3k is cheaper in the long run.
I've bought my super clean, extended cab, Z71, 54k mile, late bs 07 5.3L almost 3 years ago and the current mileage is 77K. The previous owner drove it 2 miles to work and back and the truck is still spotless. Shortly after buying it I noticed a lifter tick at cold start up with 63% remaining oil life and changed it and no tick until it got down to 63% remaining again. That's when I joined here and learned about the problems related to active fuel management. I learned a long time ago that "injector cleaner" does not burn and ends up in the oil and is a very good slow but through engine cleaner. That's why they say only use 2 treatments, it dilutes the oil. Knowing that tells me it has to go by the rings to get into the oil and that's a good thing for us owners of 5.3L with AFM. I use "Berryman's B-12", it's reasonably priced at Wal-Mart. I used injector cleaner at every fill up keeping a very close eye on the oil condition and color. For 3 oil changes with very few miles it looked like sludge and was changed. But after the third change it remained very clean and so I discontinued using injector cleaner. Since that I keep an ear out for lifter tick on startup and noticed like clock work the tick returns at about the same 63% remaining oil life that for me is at about 3000 miles and 6 months. In that time the oil level does not drop any or very little if it does. I like the active fuel management and can only notice it by watching the "instant MPG screen". My driving is about half city and half freeway towing a 3000# travel trailer. this is only my third GM vehicle at 72 years old. The first was a 1959 Olds, second was a 1985 S-10 and I was impressed with the build and features of my Silverado. I can't begin to count how many other vehicles I've owned over the years. Joe
New member here and this is my first post. I want to personally thank ChevyTec77 A month ago I bought a 2007 extended cab Silverado 4x4 and experienced the exact condition described in the above PIP. The first incidence of it coming out of gear and grinding was a month ago but then all was well...until yesterday. The problem occurs as described above as "torque reversal". when backing into my driveway that has a hump by the sidewalk that extends the drive shaft out.. With the above information I called the selling dealer he said bring it in and we'll "take a look at it". That's not what I wanted, I wanted it fixed before things got worse and cost is not a big concern. Armed with a print out I went to a nearby GMC dealer , described my problem and told the service writer I think this needs done. He didn't argue, ran my vin and went to his service and parts men and they have the clip in stock and the mechanic had done them before and said my description fit the problem. I have an appointment for next Tuesday, the cost will be upwards to $700 if no further problems are found. JoBo
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