colton_m

The pictured switch set is not an off-the-shelf item. You have to buy part #23145202 and #23145158, then take them apart and combine them together. I just went to my GM dealers parts department and ordered both.

Nice work man, any 30" seems to work just perfect mounting to those angled supports. The height below the GMC emblem is spot on. It really is quite satisfying when you dont have to drill into the truck. No going back if you mess up the height haha. Now I think I need a curved light too. My standard single row isn't cool anymore lol. Anyone reading this that's interested in those mounts feel free to shoot me a PM. I just made another batch.

Be sure and snap some pics of the install, have to show off the sweet mounting hardware!

As far as I am aware there is only one "upfitter switch" which has 4AUX toggles. Those other part numbers just cover all the other variations of switch banks that control OEM truck options. Below is a picture of what it looks like once you combine part #23145202 with #23145158 (upfitter). I've been working on this for a long time and it's very difficult. Each switch does not have its own wires, rather they push buttons that are mounted on a circuit board inside the thing. If you look through my other thread it explains what I'm trying to do, I just haven't finished the project yet because it's so annoying. AUX1 used to be "Lane departure warning" AUX2 used to be "Exhaust brake" I'm going to try using the signal from those two systems to trigger relays for the lights. Here's where I'm at so far - two switch sets mixed together:

I have no rubbing at all. The level is actually 1.5"

2014 Silverado LTZ Z71 6.2L Crew Cab 6.5' Box Tungsten Metallic 1.5" Level and BFG All Terrain KO2's 285/65-18

That's why I went with 1.5 level. The back still sits about 1/2" high, which looks level at a glance. Add about 600lbs to the bed, aka camping gear or ATV and it levels perfectly.

I have a 1.5" levelling kit, but it appears that these would fit just fine without it. Pics coming, weather is crap haha.

So far only 250km on them. I haven't noticed any vibrations so I guess the balance is good. Road noise is the same as stock IMO. At the tire shop they did tell me that these larger types of tires are harder to balance and that they would do it again for free if I noticed any problems. So far I've noticed the truck rides a lot smoother than stock when going over bumps. I'm running 36psi. Update - I've added pics to my uoiginal post

I added some new tires: BFG All Terrain KO2's 285/65-18 on stock rims I got 5 and another stock rim, going to rotate in the spare. So far they're real nice:

On the LT trucks you would have a reflector housing, in that case it doesn't really matter what side of the bulb that pillar is on. It's reflecting light everywhere so no shadow haha. Is $30 for real? lol. The stuff I need is $185 + $10 shipping + duty and exchange rate... So about $250, damn bright though, I'll never change back

After a few nights of driving I discovered that I have two shadows in my beam pattern leading from the front of the truck up to the cut-off line (on both bulbs). I spoke with TRS about this, it's because the Silverado projector needs the "XB35" brand bulbs. The difference is the post that runs the length of the bulb outside the glass is on the opposite side so it doesn't create a shadow. Grinding down the longer tab on a standard H11 bulb and rotating it will solve the problem too. At any rate I ordered a set of XB35 H11 bulbs and a capacitor link, I'm going to try them both out and report back. I don't like to assume but it's looking like the best HID combo for an OEM silverado projector is going to be: HD Relay Harness + Capacitor Link + XB35 H11 bulbs, oh and the 50watt ballast is sweet

Turns out I was wrong, see my edited post above for details. I am now running one canbus between the OEM light signal and my relay. OEM signal > Canbus > HD Relay > HID Bulbs Running good! Again lol

Hey guys after reading through all this I ordered what I thought was best from Morimoto. I have a '14 silverado LTZ. I ordered a 5000k H11 kit with an HD relay and a standalone canbus. Install went good, but I just thought I would share that the lights function perfectly with or without the canbus so I guess it isn't necessary. Recently some people have mentioned needing the "capacitor link" I don't have that either. So to summarize I ended up using: Morimoto 5000k H11 5five DSP (50 watt ballast) HD relay harness No buzzing, flickering or bulb out errors. I'm also pleased to report that lights warm up to full power and color In about 3 seconds from stone cold. Lots of pics coming soon! EDIT: Turns out it was dark enough when I tested that DRL's were not running. I tried it today in full sunlight and the relays were buzzing. I put one canbus between the OEM light bulb wire and my relay and all is good again with DRL or normal headlights with a towel over the light sensor. Contrary to the diagrams at the beginning of this thread you don't seem to need a canbus between the relay and ballast. That idea never made sense to me anyways. Stock signal > Canbus > HD Relays > HID Bulbs Running good! Again lol

Hey, after reading through this thread a few times I ordered the same kit/parts pictured above. As I understood things the canbus/capacitor/error-canceller is used to smooth out the power from the OEM bulb signal before it gets to the relay. Then the relay supplies the ballasts with good power, this makes sense. Now I am wondering why you have a canbus between the relay and ballasts? Why smooth out power coming straight from the battery via the relay?

As far as I can tell the bed is parallel with the rest of the truck, so unless you raise the front to be higher than the rear the bed will not be slanted "downward"

Hey do any of you guys know of a place I could buy extensions to put in between the ballasts and bulbs? I'm thinking of running HID's in all 6 of my lights (hi, lo, fog) and would like to make up a bracket to hold all the ballasts togeather in the space for my non-existant extra battery. There's nowhere near enough length to do this the way the kits come. Don't really want to zip tie ballasts everywhere. Thanks.

Well here's my spin on the rough country 2" leveling kit. I didn't like the fact that it was plastic and still wanted about an inch of rake. So I copied the plastic junk and made a 1.5" one out of aluminum, anodized and installed. Turned out great.

Well I bought a rough country 2" leveling kit, then I realized it was plastic and shitty, then I decided to be a bit different... So I made a 1.5" leveling kit out of aluminum, anodized and installed. Worked out great.

Hey guys, I have a question for those of you who have done a full projector swap on a Silverado. I have been poking around on TRS for a while now and I have decided a full projector retrofit is what I would like to do. It seems almost all of the projectors on their site are "bi-xenon" which as I understand it, means the projector will come with a shutter to switch from low to high-beams? If this is the case are you guys just leaving the shutter closed and putting the new projector in? Ovbiously on the Silverado there is no control for a shutter like the GMC and we wouldn't need it anyways because our hi-beams are seperate lights. Thanks!

Got my light bar installed finally Aurora LED 30" single row combo beam http://www.auroraled...W?product_id=62 Mounted to the rad supports

That's awesome. I was surprised the other day, our two dogs bark and fight if we drive them in the '03 silverado. When riding in my '14 not a peep, I think they're mesmerized by the Mylink dispay hahaha.