tbarn
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Everything posted by tbarn
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Thought about that last winter. Never came up with a way to seal the output shaft of the transfer case.
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Not sure any are correct. Parts are make/model/vin specific.
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Hate to be the bearer of bad news but there is no motor mount recall. A newer tsb for loosening the the mounts and adjusting the motor then retightening in a specific sequence is available. It is possible that a tech called TAC and was given a new motor mount p/n but I haven't heard of that yet.
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If your tires have nitrogen in them then it was put there by the dealer. GM never uses nitrogen. GM has studied it and says it's benefit is very negligable. Nitrogen molecules are larger so they seep out at a slower rate. Probably an OK idea to use it but not worth paying for in my opinion. Besides, the outside of the tire is exposed to moisture, sun and everythig the road can throw at them anyway so I'm not buyin' the moisture/oxidation problems nitrogen sellers will tell you.
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A 1 piece propeller shaft uses a splined slip joint to connect the driveline to the transmission or transfer case.
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I'm beginning to believe the same way. There are surely some tires that are out of spec. But remember the GM service info states that truck RF max is 24#. Even for the 14 model year. GM tech assistance says they need to be 14# or less. I'm thinking that these trucks are just more sensitive than the older models. Things that had vibrations/shakes on the older ones just weren't felt. So what's the fix? I have no idea, but other than strategically placed weights or new body mounts, I don't think these will ever be fixed.
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Escalade's,Tahoe's, Suburban's do.
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It is a mini usb. I read somewhere from GM that a hub would not work. Would be cheap enough try though.
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Unless something has changed, 14# is the number according to GM Technical Assistance.
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This side? Or the connector?
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Don't know how much detail you need but try this pic for a start.
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Never been illegal to my knowledge. At least in WI. Same brand dealer has to work on your vehicle, but other brand GM dealers are not required. Pre 2002, it was same make as dealer only. Then they came up with "crossline" warranty. Originally it was for emergency and used vehicles that a dealer sold but were a different GM brand. But that didn't last long. Soon every dealer was working all GM brands and it morphed into what we have today. We warranty all GM brands. Again, this is not a requirement but all dealers I know of do it. They want the work. I did here recently that Caddys require Caddy stores though.
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22995086 and 22995093 are both synthesis front plates. One has 4 outlets. One has 3 outlets. 22995093 plate is minus the 110v outlet.
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Take a look at post 134. Radio bezel and console trim are synthesis.Lighting makes console trim look lighter than it really is. Parts are best ordered by VIN. Look around at dealerships till you find the trim you want and write down the VIN. If they are still backordering the console, you will need a valid VIN from a truck that is set up the way you want. Otherwise GM will kill the order.
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Yes, if you want the front secure and rattle free. Doesn't cost much in the big picture. It is the only thing holding the front 1/3 of the console.
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Probably just confusion. TCM = transmission control module. TCCM = transfer case control module. There so may acronyms with GM, it might be worse than the military. I was going to copy/paste them but there are 96 just in the letter A.
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Cut and splice the wires that I needed.
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Not sure how much more I can say. At some point ya just have to go to it. Plenty of info here.
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Popped the front tray off of a new Silverado with factory console today.
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Can't help you with that one.
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Sure you can. As far as I know it would be the whole ip harness. Someday I'll have a customer console apart and see how this is all wired from the factory. Could be tomorrow or maybe a year from now. Or may I'll grab one off the lot and pull the front plate off and grab some pics one of these days when I get some time.
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The new harness will not plug in anywhere. I cut the large connector off and used the wires that I needed.
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Schlegle1, did you leave the original harness in the new console? I left mine in and added the jump seat harness. I tapped into the original power outlet wiring coming out of the front of the ip.used power and ground to run the other power outlet and power to the wht/brn wire on the new harness to power the light. Ran a ground wire from circuit 1050 in the picture above to ground. I think it is a larger black wire. 15 amp fuse runs 2 outlets and light. it's an led so no real power draw to speak of. As I think back, I don't think the rear outlet works but I don't care. I'll never use the 3 I have now. As I said in an earlier post I would probably do it different if I did it over again. Was up against the clock so I didn't have the time to really think the process through. But everything works that I will ever need so it isn't worth changing.
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I went out on the lot and tried my USB drive on a new Silverado front USB slot. It works.
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The way I did the USB was the cheapest for me. Also the way the factory wires it. I had serious doubts it would work all along. I think I'm content to leave it as is now. 2 USB and an SD slot is more than I need anyway. Splitting is probably worth a try though. They are micro USB . I tried to find a micro USB male to male before ordering the GM cable and didn't have any luck. Standard USB cables may or may not plug into GM's priority connectors.You should try before investing it whatever cables, hub or "y's" you might try. At this point my front USB outlets will charge but I wonder if the 12v outlets will charge faster anyway. Don't know and probably will never use any of them anyway. As for the electrical connector, my cost was over $100.00 for that little bastard. For $10.00 maybe. With or without extra outlets, I love my new console. Anyone on the hump thinking about adding it should do it. Especially like the 2 cup holder setup that actually holds a decent size cup. Would do it again in a heartbeat. Here is a wiring diagram for the console switch and light.
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