lockey14s

a 295/55r20 is not 12.5 wide, its actually 11.6. and a 285 is 11.2. that's based on converting numbers but ya I think its just the added height that makes the difference. Its not that much and I really have to lock it when in reverse to make it rub. I would have thought the 285 would clear no problems based on people running wider tires and no rub, but I guess not. I think the .25 spacer should take care of it though.

"normal operating condition"... mines been that way since day 1. you just have to get use to the chevy clunk. roast those tires!

What's the lift on this, looks perfect

Finally got some tires on. 285\60r20 duratracs. I didn't think they would rub but they do on the sway bar at full lock. Going to put on .25 spacers to see if it helps. Lift is 2.5 rc in front and 1.75 block in back. I'm thinking about going back to the stock block and putting on a 1.5 body lift but I can't decide

its not just you, a lot of people have the problem but only true truck guys will care about it. I put a hose clamp on it to hold it open. didnt even bother to bring it up with the dealer. waste of time in my opinion.

thanks! no where close to completion but its a start. waiting to wear out the factory tires (275/55r20) and then putting on toyo AT's 295/55R20

thanks, if its not too dark after work i will get a pic

I had the RC 3.5 kit installed for a little while but didnt like the ride quality and it caused some steering issues. So i took it out of the front, but left the back block in. I thought it was 1.75" over stock but cant remember for sure. It does give the truck a nice little rake though. planning on putting in a zone 1.5 body lift to get it where i want.

Did some experimenting with plasti dip. the white matches pretty good but once up close its slightly different. I want to paint my bumpers and some chrome stuff so this is just to get an idea of what i want, i think it looks awesome. pretty close to what the custom sports look like, just different grill inserts.

RC 2.5 in front, 1.75 block in rear

RC 2.5 in front, 1.75 block in back

Looks really good. I like the 1" of rake you have, dont see that too often. I set mine with 1" rake also, doesnt make it look nose heavy and when you tow or haul somehting it goes level.

yes, you will need to remove the white plastic piece in order move the cam bolt. this will move the upper control arm in or out to adjust camber. be careful not wrench too hard, the pressed in pin that it rides along can come loose very easily. i already had to weld mine back in place.

I assume youre talking about the rough country 5" lifts? I have thought about this too. you would think they would at least make the knuckle lift slightly cheaper since its a lot less parts, but they are the same exact price. the major difference (if youw want to call it major) is that the knuckle lift will push your front track width out. to some people its very annoying (including me), but others dont care. If you read through the instructions they are a lot different as well. the bracket lift seems a little more involved and requires more cutting/modifying stock parts it seems.

A lot of people are having similar issue but I think it's just a problem with the rack and not due to the lift. I have a popping noise coming from there when I back up and cut the wheel. It's getting worse as time goes on. Have to take it in and see if they can replace the rack. Pull the boot back and see if any chunks are coming out. Nice truck BTW!

Wow that's awesome to hear! I love the look of a mud tire but usually go with terra grapplers because they are very street friendly. I will definitely consider them.

Hows the noise level with those toyo R/T's?

the 7.5" lift uses new longer knuckles instead of dropping the UCA like the 7" kit. the geometry changes a little and pushes your front wheels out a little. the extra width is made up with a CV spacer. looks like they have 5, 6 and 7.5" lifts with this config now, which are probably adaptaitons from the previous generation im guessing. I am debating which 5" lift to get... knuckle or drop bracket

for sale if you want to buy it. be cheaper than new and only been on for 1 month. PM me if interested.

at full turn left when backing up my rim grinds on the upper control arm. Its funny that its only on the drivers side. the ride is pretty stiff too. with all the bad roads around my area I need something that rides a little better. the 3.5 stretches the front out pretty good. I was going to put the zone 1.5" body lift on to make it 5" total, but im just going to go full 5" suspension.

Hey guys, need some advice. Im not happy with the RC 3.5 lift even with the upper control arms, so its coming out. I would like to go with the RC 5" lift but noticed they have 2 versions of the kit now, one with control arm drops and one with new knuckles. I like my factory 20's and want to keep them so thats why i like the RC lift because it says you can run them. price is the same on both kits and the only difference i can see is that the drop bracket version keeps your factory track width. would there be any other pros/cons? looks like the knuckle lift has a lot less parts to install so you would think it would be cheaper. also is there anyone on here that has the kit? any problems?

Stiff, but not terrible. its more the front you have to be concerned about.