Newm

Nice....look forward to the pics. Rigid makes good stuff.

I see your point. I am just going off of what RX has said and other peoples experience with catch cans. I am not 100% sure but I think RX instructions stated to check around 1K-2K miles first (I could be wrong going off my middle aged memory)to get a base line then might be able to extend drain intervals closer to 5-10K miles. I might get a wild hair and check it here soon. I think I am right at 500-550 miles since install.

Looks perfect IMO....love it! I will add to the what offset wheel question with a request. Could you take a pic looking straight down the side of the truck showing how far the wheel/tires stick out? From the pics it looks almost flush which is exactly what I am looking for. Thanks.

Go for it! I finally figured out while pulling my side moldings off that parking it in the sun and a hair dryer with some dental floss is all I needed. No eraser wheel needed IMO (I was scared to use one on my new paint anyway). http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/158148-remove-oem-badges/?hl=debadging&do=findComment&comment=1412309 http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/161996-tailgate-emblem-removal/?hl=debadging

DT.....you have good taste in motorcycles as well. Nice rides!

I most definitely will. Only have 400 miles since the install and it's killing me not to check. I will drain out after a couple thousand probably. I will say the intake was already completely coated in oil/crud with 3800 miles at the time of install.

That is an awesome idea!

That's to bad...like you said, stupid people everywhere and the problem is they breed faster than smart people.

Nice! Emblems like that probably really cut down on people road raging with you.

Looks good!

Thanks. Good catch, I forgot to mention that mine is a 6.2.

I got my RexXtreme catch can installed this weekend and thought I would share just a couple pics. The install was super easy especially with the video RevX has on YouTube. Here is a good shot of the hose you remove and replace with the supplied lines in the kit. Here are the lines connected. They don't supply hose clamps and you might not need them as tight as everything fits together but I knew I would sleep better if they were 100% securely fastened so I added some SS hose clamps to all connections. You can see the brake booster bolt I mounted the catch can to in this pic. Once the vent lines were connected to the motor I went ahead and put the air box/intake back on before I connected to the catch can. That way I could see exactly how to run the lines for the cleanest/clearest install. Then just cut the lines to length and connect to the can. Center inlet on the can comes from the intake valley and the outer inlet into the can goes to the the throttle body. All done....time for a beer! (I am pointing to the throttle body inlet hose in this pic....just an FYI)

I went with the RevXtreme can and since they didn't have it listed specifically for my application I just called them and told them what I had and they sent my exactly what I needed(the cans are the same but the plumbing and mounting hardware might be different for different applications). You can see where I mounted the bracket to the brake booster bolt in this pic pretty good. Here is a link to a thread about the catch cans with some good info. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/154204-oil-catch-can/

I will tomorrow for sure.

^^ I just did my catch can install as well. I like easy projects like that.

Good deal, I will watch that thanks.

I did. I pulled the bars off the brackets that mount to the truck. Then pulled the end caps that are only held on by two screws each from the underside. The plastic pads are just snap fitted in with 7 or 8 tabs per pad.(which you can clearly see what your working with once you have pulled the end caps) Made it supper simple to do. One thing I would advise if you do go the plasti dip route is to do the entire underside as well as the top. That way it doesn't leave any lip at the masking line that could potentially start pealing. If this doesn't hold real well as easy as it is to take apart I am going to buy some satin black vinyl wrap and go that route.

First time using Plasti Dip to black out the running boards. Surprisingly it turned out really well. Now to just see how well it holds up.

^ Man I want a Blackbear tune soooo bad. Just haven't mustered up the courage yet. Ha Just filled up again, 430 miles 23.1 gallons 18.61 MPG I had more than a few "foot to the floor" runs on this tank as well messing with my buddies Tundra.

Correct me if I am wrong but it was my understanding that the majority of the oil/water/gas contamination comes through the crankcase vent where this catch can is placed in line.

That is one of the the 2 clean air intakes correct? I didn't get the clean side separator kit.

Good question....sub'd. You would think it sure would help it breathe better.

Nice GreyGhost. The Corsa sounds great.....just ask my co workers hear at work haha. They just came in, "are you still looking at exhaust's?" Yes I am!

Thanks...that is what I was kind of thinking but wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything when looking at them. Any purpose to the extra spaces between bolt holes on the ReadyLift? Saving weight ?

I am getting ready to order an 1.5" leveling kit for my truck and have a question. The only two 1.5"ers I see are made by ReadyLift and FatBob's Garage. The ReadyLift is $229.95 and and FatBob's is $79.95....what is the difference? I mean they are just metal pucks/spacers. Is the RL 3X better? HaHa FatBob's ReadyLift