johne

I really only noticed seat cover movement and had that worked on under warranty. Said they secured it and had the seat cover move on the way home from dealership. They ended up replacing seat bottom cover. It does not seem to move as badly as original so far, but it does move. Anybody come up with a fix for that? I have looked at how it is mounted and really not much holding it from sliding out of place. Whole seat started moving, as others have described on here, only after seat cover was replaced. Going to try hose clamp fix.

Just noticed mine was crooked yesterday. Already have to go back for repairs they failed to perform correctly last time anyway.

Man, these trucks are all over the place on this. Mine had a stupid looking nose dive face plant look on it when I got it. I'm pretty sure I must have the one that came with extended strut length which explains why I could not squeeze in the spacer like the guy did in the video above and also explains why the strut bolts must be installed head up with the locknut on the bottom in the particular configuration of my truck that seems to be 1"+ rack with steel control arms. I am going to send this info to the seller of my leveling kit, they are still selling it as fitting all 2014 silverados...but clearly it does not, at least not as their installation instructions describe.

Actually, I was researching it a little more and it actually seems somewhat random on who got aluminum control arms and who got steel. Many people with z71 4x4s have posted that they have steel. But some aluminum. It is the z60 package that typically comes with aluminum and is really supposed to be more of an on road tuned suspension. However, some z71s actually come with the z60 package??? Mine is an lt double cab z71 4x4 all star edition.

I watched the videos online thinking I could get the spacer in there without dropping off the knuckle but that is just impossible on this truck. Must unbolt from knuckle and use bottle jack underneath for support. Ok. So it is possible to move the cv axle completely out of the way and slide the bolt down from the top. Just had to loosen everything up more than I did at first and my instructions and other things I saw had the locknut on top. Thanks for the help. I was a little timid at first on dropping it all down since videos like this suggest it can be done easily without dropping stuff off the knukle and everything: That video is not correct for anybody who has a truck like mine. Hopefully save some people headaches if they can see this posting before wrenching on a 14' z71 with steel control arms. You will never squeeze the block in without dropping completely off the knuckle and the strut bolt needs to be dropped down through the top to provide enough clearance under cv shaft. See :52 in video "this nut left on"...this nut must be removed. A bottle jack placed under the knuckle on bottom will help you keep everything from flopping around too much. As in video, you do not need to remove control arm bolt and bushing--that can be backed off and left loose. Rough country video instructions online are also wrong and definitely contain unneccessary steps. Any idea why the RC leveling kit for steel control arms is made out of nylon/plastic. Are there problems using aluminum on steel or something? I hope not...not interested in doing the install another time.

Seller of my kit (not rough country but looks very similar) just sent me a full refund, but I guess I need to take it all apart again and see if I can slide bolt down through the top to stop the rubbing. I already had the alignment done and it looks so much better than stock, I can't go back now. At least it will go much, much faster now that I know how it all comes apart and goes back together.

I have steel lower control arms. I guess that makes a difference. Anybody have steel, or are most aluminum? And why are mine steel if other z71s have aluminum?

I used the stock tabs on the rear under the cv axke because they looked a tiny bit shorter than the washer and locknut I received in kit. I have only about 1/8 clearance with wheeks straight, but I am rubbing other times...I can see the wear line on the axle. How would you even get the bolts down through the top? I am going to see if I can get a shorter lock nut on top and shim bolt from bottom, otherwise I have to take it all apart again and try to slide bolts down through top somehow.

Do you have the z71. Wondering if it is different. I installed a 2" kit which basically looks the same as the rough country. Stock absolutely rub cv axle on mine. They looked like they barely cleared when I installed and took for allignment, but they are rubbing a little bit and now I have to go take it all apart again and figure out how to work out some way to attach the bolts without anything rubbing the cv axle. Anybody got any ideas?