revmanii

So, lot's of googling and reading, and a trial fit found, that indeed they hit the newer fatter caliper. I did some re-testing today, and found just 3/16" worth of washers was enough for the wheel to spin freely. I added 2 more on each, and again it spun freely. Tested lock to lock with the 4 washers, about 5/16" not quite the 3/8" Im considering, but pretty close. No issues. I've been looking at the BORA .375" spacers and using extended lugnuts to get back lost thread due to the spacer. All the ET lugs I've seen are all .33" reach inside the wheel lug holes. For those that don't like spacers or think they're unsafe, I think it depends on what type of spacers you're using and making sure you get good quality hubcentric ones, and if you're using bolt on ones, regular mainenance, checking the spacer lugs. Not wanting or needing that much spread. Looking for the minimum that will let me run these rims and tires. it does look to stick out a little, but I really want put these on. and use the stock all-terrains in the winter.

Feel free to expand on that. Considering .375" BORA spacers and extended lug nuts.

Appreciate the advice. I've watched multiple videos. Most showing the most complex for those that have a center console, to one that showed maybe 2 pieces of trim being removed, like 6 screws, pulling back the screen and switch assembly, and installing the inline module. And this was a new/newer Silverado. That didn't look too bad. All the others show alot of trim pieces that need to be removed. I've broken those kind of tabs/clips on my C8 Corvette trying to get to the battery, and that was a lot less clips than what I think is involved here after watching multiple videos and looking at my dash today. I have one on the way. Called a reputable stereo place about installing it and got a "minimum" price of $175. Ouch! Looking forward to seeing what the instructions have to say.

Spent the last hour or 2 googling and reading up on the spacer thing. I don't like the loss of thread contact on the slip on spacers, but it appears you can get "extended" lug nuts that reach into the hole of the wheel to get back the lost threads. Looks like the only true hubcentric slip on spacers are at least .375". I'd want as little as I could get away with and don't want to cause other clearance issues going any thicker. Bora seems to offer what appears to be a well made .375" spacer and extended lug nuts. I searched here and did find a couple threads recommending Bora. But not cheap. By the time I buy spacers and lugs, new TPMS sensors, then pay a tire shop to install the new sensors, I suspect I'm going to be in over $400. Thinking about running out and getting some washers to put behind the wheel to see if .375" is enough to clear calipers, turn lock to lock without rubbing, and to see if the wheels/tires look strange pushed out a little. This would just be to check fitment.

Not surprised, but hugely disappointing. My 2014 wheels don't clear the 2026 calipers.

I have to believe there are already a bunch of threads on this, but my searches didn't turn up much. While I like the ease of a plugin solution like the Carbyte, It appears it disables the AFM or DFM too, and is not configurable to only disable the auto stop/start. So, I'm looking at the Autostop Eliminator product. I like the idea of it better, but I'm concerned about the install and having to pull so many panels to get it installed. Mines a 2026 work truck, so from what I've read it's a less involved install, but having watched a couple install vid's, I'm still a little intimidated. Might need to buy some plastic trim tools to get it done without breaking or marring stuff. Any experience installing in a WT greatly appreciated.

PS: Here's a pic of the 2014 wheels I'd like to run when it's not winter. Toyo 285/60 x 18 Proxes ST III tires. Nice wide tire, sporty look. Stuck my finger around new wheel caliper setup. Very little clearance. I suspect these won't fit, but won't know for sure till I try. Edit: And my first mod. Stubby antenna from the old truck.

I bought it today and brought it home. They still owe me the bed liner, remote start, and they also agreed to get me the flat black bumpers to replace the optional chromes ones. While some folks may think I'm crazy, I think they'll look a lot better with all the other black stuff. Blacked out grill, mirrors, running boards, dark essentials Chevy tailgate lettering along with the black Silverado and Turbomax emblems. I do want to replace the dark essentials front grill bowtie with the base level gold one. The 2.7 4 seems to run well and push a 1500 along just fine :).

GM offers the work truck in a std cab/std bed as well as a std cab/long bed. For whatever reason you can't get the V8 with the std bed, but you can with a long bed. I took a quick look at the Fords a day or 2 ago, and yes you can get a Ford std cab/std bed. Lousy color selection though. If I remember correctly they also seemed to be more expensive. The big thing I'm giving up is the 2 spd xfer case. They apparently can add the remote start for me (which I'll do), and we'll do an aftermarket Patriot spray on bedliner as all of the Line-X dealers around here have jumped ship due to new rules being imposed by corporate Line-X. I'm hoping my 2014 wheels I bought back in 2014 as take offs from an LTZ extended cab will fit the new truck. Getting mixed answers on that. They're 18"s vs the new 17"s, but they have the same bolt pattern, offset, and the overall height/diameter is within a 1/10th of an inch as the new truck wheels and tires. Time will tell. I went through the job of pulling them off the truck this morning and putting the original 20" wheels and tires on it for trade in.

Yes. I was under the understanding I could not get remote start with the WT. Looks like the 997 would work. Sent my sales guy an email. I'd love to add this from GM vs. paying twice as much for an aftermarket solution. Thanks!

Time will tell. I gave them a go ahead. They're going swap out the chrome bumbers for the black ones for me. I'm pretty sure, sooner or later I'll regret compromising on the 2 spd transfer case, but I'm getting old and want a new truck and this is where I am. Losing the power seat and remote start too compared to my current truck. Not too worried about the seat, and it looks like I can add the remote start aftermarket from Compustar for $420 or so depending on level.

Looks like you're correct. Got a call today telling me as much. They found a truck that has a lot of the right options, but a couple that aren't. It has chrome bumbers that I'm having trouble getting past cosmetically. It's also appears to be missing the 2 spd transfer case (4 wheel low), along with having several options I have no intersest in, or paying for.

No, not yet. Hoping I'll have something a little more definitive in the next day or 2. They seemed to be very confident they can order it. I do have some understanding of the whole allocations and restraints stuff so we'll see. I think this is what I'm looking for. 3000 ORDER ACCEPTED BY PRODUCTION CONTROL

I hear you, I'm in upstate NY. This my second set of Westin's. Got 5 years out of the first, I have 7 years on the second, but they're shot. Westin's not making them anymore. Looks like DeeZee still has them available for my 2014, but not for the 2026. I have a set coming from Ionics for the 2014. Same 3 year warranty as the DeeZees. Ionic also appear have them available for the 2026 ...

I was a little surprised this morning when a third local dealer, one I've never really done any business with, showed some interest and follow through to the point that I've ordered my build for a new 2026, std cab/std bed .