dg805

I did. I ran wires through the little holes and fish them through the mirror housing(take off mirrors) into the inside of the door which required me to remove the top half of a door panel. I posted a photo of where those wires come out(posted above). I added wire loom to make it look like it was part of the design as opposed to just having wires running through. From there the wires kept running through the fender which gave me access to the engine bay and tapped into the headlight parking lights.

I drilled out a little hole to allow wires to go through on each mirror. The LED pods have the wires coming out in the center, ion the back and have all weather 3M double sided tape which holds very strong. The LEDs are meant for semi trucks.

Here's mine, had installed mine about 2.5 years ago. Also added side mirror clearance/running leds.

Came shortly after bringing my truck home from the dealer. As for how much it cost, just $75 for the matching colors, black and red. Here's a closer look. Easy on and off. ?

Added new drop in bed liner to my CC.

Do you have more photos of that bar? Also what's the price? I like how wide it is. I'm also considering the gorhino push bars, but they look exactly like police cruiser push bars. (Probably helps that I used to be SBSO)

I've been thinking of doing this for a good while now. When I saw another member with a black truck with similar lights to these, I knew I had to get it done. How did you cut into the bumper?

Here's my black '14 Silverado CC 5.3

Almost everything I ordered was from Amazon.com, as I did not want to make "accounts" on multiple websites with my info. I did use 1/4 inch wire loom to cover all my wiring, which makes it look as if it were OEM. I cut the bullet connections on all LEDs, as they are meant for trailers and or semi trucks. Instead I used t-tap connections. It was a lot cheaper to order from amazon, as to buy these things at any of my local auto parts store. they charge more, for less. For the LEDs on the mirror. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KX9N71W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The LEDs on the grille. http://www.amazon.com/Maxxima-M09300YCL-Combination-Clearance-Marker/dp/B00L5204O4/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1417830138&sr=8-9&keywords=led+clearance+lights T-tap male connections. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001768788/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3496MA916589T&coliid=I3VQNGGC2VP3TW Female T-tap connections. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JT72F2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3496MA916589T&coliid=IZDKVGBAIWFKP Plastic sheet to make honeycomb/diamond shape brackets, to attach to grille. http://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-89-00-9031-Plastic-8-Inch/dp/B0007WTF02/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1417830688&sr=1-1&keywords=plastic+sheet

I had to make brackets myself out of black plastic sheet too, I cut the diamond/honeycomb shape just a hair bigger than the opening on the grill to attach it with locktite 5 second super glue. looks very clean but it's not "bolted on" to anything. I've had them on since a week or two after bringing it home from the dealership, no issues yet, still strongly glued and no sign of wearing off.

For now, they are as running light/clearance. I have to buy/make the diodes and resistors wiring and figure out which is the signal wire to tap into.

Staright on 45 degree angle with all LEDs on. Turned off

The Grille LEDs were fairly easy, as for the mirror LEDs, that was a bit time consuming as I was being careful not to break the plastic tabs removing the door panel partially. Though, in your case you will have to remove completely to swap out the mirrors for the towing ones, as the wire connectors are further down below the door panel.

As per your request. First photo is with the LED on and the second photo, it's turned off. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KX9N71W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1