Not sure where this should go but I own 2014 silverado crew cab. I purchased a Extang trifold hard cover when new. It Started leaking water into the truck bed after a few months and the company sent me a new cover under warranty. The new cover, that was supposed to be an upgrade leaked more than the original and there's no further warranty. Last time I washed the truck it was a cold day and I noticed all the water that was puddled on the top panels was slowly disappearing, figured it can't be evaporating so looked inside underneat the panels and could plainly see the water dripping across the panels (side to side) where they are pressed into the retangular framing.So obvious the water was leaking from the top panels into and around the frame that holds them. I bought a small tube of black silicone sealer and put a small bead of silicone around each panel where the dimpled surface goes into the frame that supports it and pressed it in as much as I could by wiping along the edge with my finger; I did this two times and was amazed at how much silicone went under those edges. At any rate, it stopped the leakage and you can hardly see the silicone. If I can post a picture, I will do so. Originally I thought it was the two hinge joints that were leaking but that was not the case. Hope this helps someone! Don C.
Want to put bug deflector to protect the hood and windshield of my 2014 Silverado. Dealer says they can supply a self adhesive model or another where you attach the brackets to the underside of the hood. My main concern is I want to make sure whatever I install does not come in contact with the exposed painted surface of the hood. In case I take them off for some reason down the road, I don't want to marr the paint and now have to deal with that especially with white diamond. The sales person at dealer site didn't know much about the actual installation. 1. does anyone have experience with these things and can tell me the under hood bracketed style stays clear of the hood surface? 2. If I use the self adhesive style ( which I was told does adhere directly onto the hood) can the adhesive strip be removed without damageing the paint? I appreciate any feedback on this. Thanks
The high beams on my 2014 1500 are aimed too high, while the low beams seem to be okay, these are the stacked lights, high beams on bottom. Looking under the hood I see an adjustment screw on each side that appears to be for the low beams, but not sure. Does anyone know how to adjust the high beams only on this truck? I can't tell if the single screw adjusts both lights together or do I have to remove the shroud on top of the radiator to access the high beams? Thanks Donc
Latest update- I took my truck to the dealer last night to have it tested on the computer. They say there were two service engine codes; po689 and p1682 and a 3343 code for ig relays. They cleared the codes and thought possibly the relay (IG) was frozen, no parts replaced? I'm going back tomorrow to talk to the service manager as this doesn't make sense. My problem evolved when I started the truck getting ready to leave a hotel. I ran the engine for 15 minutes to warm it up while I tied down snowmobiles and prepared to leave. I shut the truck off, went into the hotel for 10 minutes to check out and when I returned the engine cranked but would not fire, after four or so attempts at starting and maybe 20 minutes later the engine started instantly when I turned the key, no 3-4 second cranking like normally. Something was holding out the spark I think. The truck sat there for 2 days but it started , so I wonder how they assumed something was now frozen after the engine ran for 15 minutes, was reaching mid temperature and was off for maybe 10 minutes. Sounds to me like a relay stuck or something else is wrong so now I'm supposed to keep driving and hope this doesn't occur again when I'm 200 miles away from home in the mountains somewhere. I know they are different animals, but my fuel injected snowmobiles start instantly after sitting in storage for 7-8 months or under extreme cold conditions! don Last update: Service manager looked at report and ordered new ignition relay before I even asked; hopefully this will be the end of that problem.
fondupot, Good point, I should have tried turning the key on to get the fuel pump running for a few seconds especially while in the extreme cold conditions, with -15 deg. ambient the battery cranking power is already reduced from norm. But I did try that once this past fall just to see if the engine started any faster and didn't notice any improvement. I'm going to give it another try for a period of time and see if it improves things, especially since someone pointed out that the system won't even fire until a certain fuel pressure is established; seems like that would shorten the time for the engine to have to crank while pressure is building. Donc
15sierrak2, Thanks for the follow-up on the extended start times. I now have to see if they can figure out why the truck would not even fire after it was warmed up. This truck is starting to make me nervous; I usually wait till after a new model has been in production a few years before buying so the bugs are worked out but didn't follow my normal pattern this time. Donc
Redwngr, Thanks for the chart and feedback from others. This is a great place to get user info; I've been thinking about the long crank times on this truck since I bought it and you would think the dealer would have been able to at least say "yeah, that's normal" when I asked, as They deal with these trucks on a daily basis and would have noticed that they crank longer before starting than we're used to. I still plan to call them and have it looked at because something was wrong when it took so long to start after it was warmed up. I think I read in the manual that there's some sort of engine shut off timer when you use the remote start, I think it was ten minutes, I forget the details? I never have used the remote but wondered if somehow that factored into my problem? Donc
I have a 2014 Silverado crew cab with the 5.3 engine. Ever since new (may 2014) , when starting, the engine cranks quite a bit longer than other fuel injected engines I've owned. Several times I reached the maximum crank time (maybe 8 seconds) and it finally started, sometimes it starts right up. I went to the dealer a while ago and asked about the starting issue and basically got the shoulder shrug; so I started video taping the engine starting so I could bring something to the dealer that they could hear themselves, but haven't had any long crank times lately so held off. This a.m. I'm at tug hill NY snowmobiling, it's -15 deg. and I go out to start my truck. YES- I was worried, this thing doesn't start good when it's warm. Just as I reached the point of maximum cranking the engine started . I let it idle for 15 minutes, engine temperature gauge was starting to move up, engine idleing smoothly, reved it a few times, shut it off, went into the hotel for 10 minutes came back out and the engine cranked but wouldn't even fire. After several attempts I called for roadside assistance, while waiting about 10 minutes after the call I tried once more and the truck started instantly. We can tell when an engine is trying to fire; this thing was dead, either not getting spark or fuel. I usually burn mid grade or high test and the truck gets used regularly so the gas is fresh. Made it home, Calling the dealer but wondering if anyone has had similar issues. Thanks, Don
Thanks to all who offered opinions. Since I don't drive off road I've decided to give the SR-A tires a try during winter months and see how it goes; they are a quiet tire which is a plus for me. I do have a standing offer from Good-Year to make a change; obviously going to cost me $$$, but likely less hassle than trying to sell the tires myself. It's unfortunate that my dealer doesn't want to help, luck of the draw I guess. I'm still wondering if myself and many others who paid the $200 extra for All Terrain tires are victims of a mistake or mis-interpretation by someone at GM who thinks all SR-A tires are All Terrain? I base that on what I was told by a good year rep who said only the SR-A tires with the "LT" prefix are all terrain, the SR-A with the "P" prefix are standard M/S tires ; which by the way is all I've seen on the dealer lots where the $200 extra cost was added. At any rate thanks to everyone; time to go snowmobiling !! Don
Hello, I've read the previous posts in regard to questions about the $200.0 fee for All Terrain tires and the SR-A tires not being labeled as such nor do they look like a typical "all terrain" tire. I own a 2014 Silverado crew cab with the SR-a's and while I don't go off road I do drive & tow in severe snow conditions at times. Also a matter of principle, like anyone else I like to get what I paid for and my dealer has offered no help with this. But I recently talked to a Goodyear rep who told me that the SR-A tire that has a "P" prefix letter, like "P265-65-r18" (which I have ) is not an All Terrain tire; the only ones that qualify for that rating are tires that have a "LT" prefix before the size. Just wondering if anyone has heard this or can qualify what I was told? Also like to hear from anyone who has the SR-A tires that has driven their trucks in severe snow conditions and how the tires performed? Thanks, Don
donc posted a topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra 1500Recently purchased a new 2014 4wd Silverado crew cab that came with wrangler sr/a tires, size 265-65 r18. I happened to see a review of these tires and it stated that they were not very good in ice and deep snow conditions. Since I do a lot of towing a snowmobile trailer in northern NY and Canada during winter months, this review raised an alarm with me. Just wondering if anyone on this forum would comment on how well these tires do in similar conditions? Many times I'm maneuvering in parking lots or back roads that are pretty rutted with deep snow, along with the normal conditions we run into on the thruway, 81 & 401 in NY & Canada. Thanks Donc
Hello, Just purchased a new 2014 Silverado 1500 crew cab. The door handles are black; want to replace them with factory chrome plated handles, which I purchased. I know there is a access hole inside the door opening, opposite the handle that allow's replacement of the handles without taking off the inside door panels, etc. has anyone done this replacement and if so any instructions on the steps necessary is appreciated. I can see the screw inside the door frame but want to make sure I have an idea of what I'm loosening beforehand. Thanks! Donc
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