Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

1,888 profile views

donc's Achievements


Enthusiast (2/11)



  1. Thanks, I'll ask about the balance, I'm not sure how they did it. I'm used to talking to the service manager or mechanic themselves, in this new world you don't get to talk to anyone close to the work anymore. I crawled under the truck today and checked the universal joints, they all seemed tight except the output shaft to the front wheels on the transfer case had some play in it right at the case, I'm assuming there's a bearing inside close by, kinda surprised me because I've only used four wheel a couple times over the years, although I engage it on straight runs once in awhile just to move things around. i can't see how that would contribute to any vibration but on the other hand I'm assuming there's rotating members in that case and something could go wrong in there. I changed that oil last year, along with every other fluid in the system.
  2. My truck has 55,000 miles on it, new firestone le3 tires at 47,000 mi., compared to the original SRA tires the le3's felt a little harsher on bumps but smooth and quiet overall. Shortly after I rotated the tires I started noticing something like a harmonic vibration, more noticeable between 30-50 mph and depending on the the road surface. Took truck to chevy dealer, had tires rebalanced , front end alignment checked and they ended up rotating the tires again, its still vibrating. Going back to tire dealer next week because I think its something with the tires, even tough the tire surface is pretty flat. If I put the truck in neutral the vibration stays the same that's why I'm pointing at the tires, but is this logic wrong? the vibration feels like I'm driving over a very mild form of those slots they put in the center of the road or if your driving with a rear window open where you get that pulsating noise / feeling. Anyone have similar problems that might be something look at, I appreciate any feedback. I drive very easy on my vehicles, avoid potholes, nothing off road, things like that so pretty I'm confident its not a damaged part situation. Thanks, Don c.
  3. Yeah, before I started this job, I read many posts & I saw a post where someone loosened the manifold bolts, maybe that was yours. I was lucky , only needed maybe 1/2" drop on the pipe to get the pan out, so just a little flexing needed. There seems to be a lot of variations on how much is needed to get the pans out , if we're all talking same engine , etc. it has to be differences in how the pipes are bent. Installing a drain plug is a good idea, but I borrowed a oil evacuator vacuum system that emptied that sump in 10 minutes or less through the dip tube. It even has a connection to hook compressed air up to it which creates a eductor affect that's probably faster whereas I used the hand pump that's part of it, pretty cool device. But it sure helped reading all the posts on this site so you get an idea of options and what your going to be up against.
  4. I just finished changing the transmission oil & filter on my 2014 silverado with 5.3 engine. I tried every conceivable angle and could not slide the pan past the exhaust pipe that sits below it, as others claimed they did. I think its possible there are variations in the exhaust bends that allow some to achieve removal of the pan with no problem. Mine was hanging up on the left rear corner (if looking towards back of truck, right next to what appears to be a wire connector) . But I only needed a small amount of extra clearance and was able to get this by placing a small piece of 2x4 and a couple tapered wood shims between the floor of truck and top of resonator (I think) ahead of the flexible joint, just pulled down on pipe and wedged in shims by hand , that's all I needed, so I don't think I stressed anything. Really, if your not concerned about replacing that sealing sleeve that the tube of the filter fits into, you can pull the filter down with the pan hanging there and remove it from the pan and also wipe out the pan, change the gasket if desired, clean the magnet, etc. without too much problem. I opted to change the sleeve and couldn't see how I could get it done with the pan in the way, although I'm not saying it can't be done. At any rate , the sleeve is up inside a cavity in the housing and you can't get to it from the side. I took a big screwdriver, positioned so I caught the edge of the sleeve and adjacent housing , turned it sideways and in doing so crimped the sleeve inwards. Was able to get it out without touching or damaging the bore that the sleeve slides up into, but it took some time and had me sweating bullets till it finally came out. I used a 15/16 deep well socket to press the new sleeve up into place. I bought a new gasket beforehand but in reality my old gasket looked pretty good and could have been used again. I had done a previous 5 quart change a couple weeks before this by using a vacuum system to draw out the oil via the dip stick tube; actually I pulled most of the oil out the same way before I unbolted the pan, so i didn't have to deal with that mess while laying under the truck. I have 47k miles on the truck. I used 12 quarts of dexron v1 all toll between the two changes.
  5. Not sure where this should go but I own 2014 silverado crew cab. I purchased a Extang trifold hard cover when new. It Started leaking water into the truck bed after a few months and the company sent me a new cover under warranty. The new cover, that was supposed to be an upgrade leaked more than the original and there's no further warranty. Last time I washed the truck it was a cold day and I noticed all the water that was puddled on the top panels was slowly disappearing, figured it can't be evaporating so looked inside underneat the panels and could plainly see the water dripping across the panels (side to side) where they are pressed into the retangular framing.So obvious the water was leaking from the top panels into and around the frame that holds them. I bought a small tube of black silicone sealer and put a small bead of silicone around each panel where the dimpled surface goes into the frame that supports it and pressed it in as much as I could by wiping along the edge with my finger; I did this two times and was amazed at how much silicone went under those edges. At any rate, it stopped the leakage and you can hardly see the silicone. If I can post a picture, I will do so. Originally I thought it was the two hinge joints that were leaking but that was not the case. Hope this helps someone! Don C.
  6. Want to put bug deflector to protect the hood and windshield of my 2014 Silverado. Dealer says they can supply a self adhesive model or another where you attach the brackets to the underside of the hood. My main concern is I want to make sure whatever I install does not come in contact with the exposed painted surface of the hood. In case I take them off for some reason down the road, I don't want to marr the paint and now have to deal with that especially with white diamond. The sales person at dealer site didn't know much about the actual installation. 1. does anyone have experience with these things and can tell me the under hood bracketed style stays clear of the hood surface? 2. If I use the self adhesive style ( which I was told does adhere directly onto the hood) can the adhesive strip be removed without damageing the paint? I appreciate any feedback on this. Thanks
  7. The high beams on my 2014 1500 are aimed too high, while the low beams seem to be okay, these are the stacked lights, high beams on bottom. Looking under the hood I see an adjustment screw on each side that appears to be for the low beams, but not sure. Does anyone know how to adjust the high beams only on this truck? I can't tell if the single screw adjusts both lights together or do I have to remove the shroud on top of the radiator to access the high beams? Thanks Donc
  8. Latest update- I took my truck to the dealer last night to have it tested on the computer. They say there were two service engine codes; po689 and p1682 and a 3343 code for ig relays. They cleared the codes and thought possibly the relay (IG) was frozen, no parts replaced? I'm going back tomorrow to talk to the service manager as this doesn't make sense. My problem evolved when I started the truck getting ready to leave a hotel. I ran the engine for 15 minutes to warm it up while I tied down snowmobiles and prepared to leave. I shut the truck off, went into the hotel for 10 minutes to check out and when I returned the engine cranked but would not fire, after four or so attempts at starting and maybe 20 minutes later the engine started instantly when I turned the key, no 3-4 second cranking like normally. Something was holding out the spark I think. The truck sat there for 2 days but it started , so I wonder how they assumed something was now frozen after the engine ran for 15 minutes, was reaching mid temperature and was off for maybe 10 minutes. Sounds to me like a relay stuck or something else is wrong so now I'm supposed to keep driving and hope this doesn't occur again when I'm 200 miles away from home in the mountains somewhere. I know they are different animals, but my fuel injected snowmobiles start instantly after sitting in storage for 7-8 months or under extreme cold conditions! don Last update: Service manager looked at report and ordered new ignition relay before I even asked; hopefully this will be the end of that problem.
  9. fondupot, Good point, I should have tried turning the key on to get the fuel pump running for a few seconds especially while in the extreme cold conditions, with -15 deg. ambient the battery cranking power is already reduced from norm. But I did try that once this past fall just to see if the engine started any faster and didn't notice any improvement. I'm going to give it another try for a period of time and see if it improves things, especially since someone pointed out that the system won't even fire until a certain fuel pressure is established; seems like that would shorten the time for the engine to have to crank while pressure is building. Donc
  10. 15sierrak2, Thanks for the follow-up on the extended start times. I now have to see if they can figure out why the truck would not even fire after it was warmed up. This truck is starting to make me nervous; I usually wait till after a new model has been in production a few years before buying so the bugs are worked out but didn't follow my normal pattern this time. Donc
  11. Redwngr, Thanks for the chart and feedback from others. This is a great place to get user info; I've been thinking about the long crank times on this truck since I bought it and you would think the dealer would have been able to at least say "yeah, that's normal" when I asked, as They deal with these trucks on a daily basis and would have noticed that they crank longer before starting than we're used to. I still plan to call them and have it looked at because something was wrong when it took so long to start after it was warmed up. I think I read in the manual that there's some sort of engine shut off timer when you use the remote start, I think it was ten minutes, I forget the details? I never have used the remote but wondered if somehow that factored into my problem? Donc
  12. I have a 2014 Silverado crew cab with the 5.3 engine. Ever since new (may 2014) , when starting, the engine cranks quite a bit longer than other fuel injected engines I've owned. Several times I reached the maximum crank time (maybe 8 seconds) and it finally started, sometimes it starts right up. I went to the dealer a while ago and asked about the starting issue and basically got the shoulder shrug; so I started video taping the engine starting so I could bring something to the dealer that they could hear themselves, but haven't had any long crank times lately so held off. This a.m. I'm at tug hill NY snowmobiling, it's -15 deg. and I go out to start my truck. YES- I was worried, this thing doesn't start good when it's warm. Just as I reached the point of maximum cranking the engine started . I let it idle for 15 minutes, engine temperature gauge was starting to move up, engine idleing smoothly, reved it a few times, shut it off, went into the hotel for 10 minutes came back out and the engine cranked but wouldn't even fire. After several attempts I called for roadside assistance, while waiting about 10 minutes after the call I tried once more and the truck started instantly. We can tell when an engine is trying to fire; this thing was dead, either not getting spark or fuel. I usually burn mid grade or high test and the truck gets used regularly so the gas is fresh. Made it home, Calling the dealer but wondering if anyone has had similar issues. Thanks, Don
  13. Thanks to all who offered opinions. Since I don't drive off road I've decided to give the SR-A tires a try during winter months and see how it goes; they are a quiet tire which is a plus for me. I do have a standing offer from Good-Year to make a change; obviously going to cost me $$$, but likely less hassle than trying to sell the tires myself. It's unfortunate that my dealer doesn't want to help, luck of the draw I guess. I'm still wondering if myself and many others who paid the $200 extra for All Terrain tires are victims of a mistake or mis-interpretation by someone at GM who thinks all SR-A tires are All Terrain? I base that on what I was told by a good year rep who said only the SR-A tires with the "LT" prefix are all terrain, the SR-A with the "P" prefix are standard M/S tires ; which by the way is all I've seen on the dealer lots where the $200 extra cost was added. At any rate thanks to everyone; time to go snowmobiling !! Don
  14. Hello, I've read the previous posts in regard to questions about the $200.0 fee for All Terrain tires and the SR-A tires not being labeled as such nor do they look like a typical "all terrain" tire. I own a 2014 Silverado crew cab with the SR-a's and while I don't go off road I do drive & tow in severe snow conditions at times. Also a matter of principle, like anyone else I like to get what I paid for and my dealer has offered no help with this. But I recently talked to a Goodyear rep who told me that the SR-A tire that has a "P" prefix letter, like "P265-65-r18" (which I have ) is not an All Terrain tire; the only ones that qualify for that rating are tires that have a "LT" prefix before the size. Just wondering if anyone has heard this or can qualify what I was told? Also like to hear from anyone who has the SR-A tires that has driven their trucks in severe snow conditions and how the tires performed? Thanks, Don
  15. Recently purchased a new 2014 4wd Silverado crew cab that came with wrangler sr/a tires, size 265-65 r18. I happened to see a review of these tires and it stated that they were not very good in ice and deep snow conditions. Since I do a lot of towing a snowmobile trailer in northern NY and Canada during winter months, this review raised an alarm with me. Just wondering if anyone on this forum would comment on how well these tires do in similar conditions? Many times I'm maneuvering in parking lots or back roads that are pretty rutted with deep snow, along with the normal conditions we run into on the thruway, 81 & 401 in NY & Canada. Thanks Donc
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.