Zebrafive

Quite a drive to get her, but they are not easy to find with a 6.2L V8

Yes. It should be plug and play on a 2013. You should verify you have 12v at pin 7 of X14 in the under dash junction block ONLY when the key is ON. I have verified that for 2011, but do not have a 2013 to check, but think it should be the same.

TOP

Google the part number of the one you want. (several prior posts list them) Plenty of online sellers will pop up from that search.

Mine starts to get warm in about 10 seconds, fully warm in 30 seconds. At least at current temps.

Nice! I would consider your button color to be the blue, not green You did not show your center stack, how was that match? Parts will also be more for a 2013, because of the clockspring difference.

Thanks, that was enough information for me to figure out what bolts to buy. M10 = 10mm diameter 1.5 = thread pitch 25 = 25 mm length 28 OD = 28mm diameter SEMS washer TAP = Tapping (self tapping) TR-PT = Tapered Point

Any one have more info on these bolts? They list over $8 each. Size? (thread size and length) Are they self tapping?, Any alternatives? I have the front skid plate 20944322 and do not want to pay more for the bolts than I paid for the skid plate.

Camera signal not strong enough to support both mirror and Kenwood unit? Bad RCA cable to Kenwood? Internal short, since you lose the mirror image? Kenwood needs to be somehow switched to camera input?

The new clock spring has all the connectors of the original clock spring PLUS a light green connector on each side. Steering wheel side connects to the heated steering wheel. Column side is where my harness comes in. It connects to the clock spring and I/P Junction Block. Once installed heated wheel is ready to use. No BCM programming/flashing required.

I made it.

Thanks! You will also need a new SIR coil / Clock Spring part number 22911594 for a 2013

Harness to provide power and ground for heated steering wheel install. This harness connects to the dash side of the SIR coil light green connector and goes to the I/P Junction Block space X14. Delphi connectors, terminals, terminal locks and 18 gauge wire. $25 shipped in USA. Will ship to Canada $30. Message me if interested

The steering wheel buttons on my 2011 Silverado are the blue, not green. Maybe since it's an LTZ? My radio buttons are part number 25851951 (for an ebony wheel) and are blue lights if that helps. This was a non heated wheel, so I did not look at the part number for the cruise buttons, but could if you need that part number. I think the wheel I installed 22947811 was meant for an Escalade or possibly a Yukon Denali. It has blue lit buttons and matches my other dash lights.

Where did you find info for the color to part number? I am thinking LEDS for lights, but never had one apart. Do you know a model year when the color changed?

Are you connecting the center from the RCA to white and the shield from the RCA to blue?

By harness do you mean this pigtail? If so, NO, you still need to hookup the two wires to power and ground. I am trying to source the connector for the junction block to make the harness "plug & play" No reflash required. Steering wheel, correct clock spring, hook up power and ground = ready to enjoy!

NO Idea why post #134 is a triple post all in one post. If a moderator can fix it Thank You! and if you fix it, delete this post too.

I'd like to find a Coca heated leather steering wheel 2007-2013 NBS WITHOUT the wood trim on the rim. I am not sure if one even exists. The "give me your VIN" makes searching for one just about impossible.

I have not figured out how to have the heated wheel come on with remote start. If you leave the heated wheel switch ON when shutting OFF the truck, it's OFF when the truck is restarted. Constant voltage to the buttons (not sure which wire) MIGHT work IF the 12 volt "heat" wire becomes "hot" upon remote start, AND the wheel heat button was left ON. I am not sure if constant voltage to the buttons would make other problems, such as shorten button life or battery run down. I can supply a connector for the dash side of the SIR Coil/Clockspring. Check the FOR SALE section. I am trying to source a connector for the junction box to be able to offer a "plug and play" harness from the SIR Coil to the Junction Box. I have not figured out how to have the heated wheel come on with remote start. If you leave the heated wheel switch ON when shutting OFF the truck, it's OFF when the truck is restarted. Constant voltage to the buttons (not sure which wire) MIGHT work IF the 12 volt "heat" wire becomes "hot" upon remote start, AND the wheel heat button was left ON. I am not sure if constant voltage to the buttons would make other problems, such as shorten button life or battery run down. I can supply a connector for the dash side of the SIR Coil/Clockspring. Check the FOR SALE section. I am trying to source a connector for the junction box to be able to offer a "plug and play" harness from the SIR Coil to the Junction Box. I have not figured out how to have the heated wheel come on with remote start. If you leave the heated wheel switch ON when shutting OFF the truck, it's OFF when the truck is restarted. Constant voltage to the buttons (not sure which wire) MIGHT work IF the 12 volt "heat" wire becomes "hot" upon remote start, AND the wheel heat button was left ON. I am not sure if constant voltage to the buttons would make other problems, such as shorten button life or battery run down. I can supply a connector for the dash side of the SIR Coil/Clockspring. Check the FOR SALE section. I am trying to source a connector for the junction box to be able to offer a "plug and play" harness from the SIR Coil to the Junction Box.

I was hoping it was all leather in Cocoa

Is your heated wheel all leather or does it have the woodgrain trim? Thanks in advance.

Too late to edit this post, part number 22947811 is Woodgrain/Cocoa, NOT Woodgrain/Cashmere. Cocoa is much darker than Cashmere. Anyone know if an all leather heated wheel was made in Cocoa? Since 22947767 = ebony, 22947768 = titanium, and 22947769 = cashmere I played with the part number and found 22947765 comes back as F-Wheel-GM; no image available. As do the other three part numbers.

Have you worked on this any more? If the switch on the steering wheel stays "ON" after the truck is shut off, could a wire with a diode from the heated seats be spliced in? I guess I need to determine if the switch stays "ON" and figure out which wire from the heated seats needs to be used.

No need to pull your steering wheel. In the pictures you posted look for the light green connector with two wires; one brown and one black. The brown one is the one you want. The fuse is about 4" from the male light green connector. Check the top picture, it's the black box taped to the wires from the light green connector. Your light green connector will be taped to the harness that goes up the column. Your fuse may look different than what's pictured since you have an older truck.