Febreze, before the ozone thing also put a box of Baking soda make sure it's the one with the mesh on the side or you can just work it onto the carpet and wait a couple of days, vacuum then repeat, tht lifts the smell right off the carpet. If you have a good steamer then you may want to try it before the baking soda. Next time do what do on my 2017 Silverado is to put in mud floor mats
I hope this info will help. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2014-2019-GM-UPFITTER-CHEVY-GMC-JUNCTION-BLOCK-CONNECTOR-AUX-SWITCHES-15547108/222378277124 This company will provide you with a complete solution. That is if you are looking for these parts, they connect from the switches to the connector box under the dash.
SORRY - I sent it before I could finish the post.. The connections you are looking at are GPS plugs, GPS satellite signals are very touchy, that's the reason for two plugs, also it can search more that one satellite at at a time. The radio you want looks like any other radio antenna plug, except it uses the small plug that has been used for the last 10 years. And there are tons of adapters sold everywhere. As for splitting the antenna for a CB yes you can do it, make sure you are not running the stock transmitting power which is .05w. then it's not that powerful to cause damage to the finals. Being not matched or adjusted not adjusted for the radio wave is no problem, because everytime you change the channel the antenna is off already. Now if you are running 5w to 20w then yes, you will blow the finals off the transmitter and maybe other parts. The outside antenna connector connects to the real radio which is a box in back of the glove box. The screen is actually a display and converts touches to analog signals that the radio can understand. .
$20 plus shipping USPS #2 priority flat price. Please don't get offended for the price I still have to buy the $300 for the panel where they go through
I am deducting you have the homelink programmable garage door opener,(factory) if it's in the rear view mirror, then there will be a drawing of a home on the light that shows it's operating. To erase you push the outer buttons together for 30 seconds. Next step... do you have a roving signal garage door opener. you know you have a basic door opener you'll know because the garage door opener will have just one button. On the others there will be more than one button, you can use it for more than one door. I it's a one button, then press the button you want to program and hold it, point the garage opener to the bottom of where the buttons are and press the button on it. keep pressing both till the opener on the car will start flashing, keep holding it till the light flashes fast then release both buttons. Try the homelink on the car and see if works. I you have a roaming garage door opener in the house, more than likely if it's a house built after around 91 and on. unless the builder cheapen out... I suggest change it because it's harder to open it by crooks. Now, push the programming button on the opener in the garage, go to the car and press the button on the Homelink, if the light on the car/truck blinks then wait till you get the fast blink again and that's it. Do what is needed if you have a basic opener (normally) to open up a gate or whatever, except push the homelink button that you want to program. If you fail on either step then you have to reset the homelink and start all over again. If you want to follow directions from Homelink the add the COM to the address on your browser and it will take you to the manufacturer page. And follow their directions there. DON'T READ PAST HERE, UNLESS YOU ARE INTERESTED ON HOW TO INSTALL IN A CAR/TRUCK WITHOUT IT ****************************************************************************************************** Homelink is used on most cars manufactured in the world, they hold patents all over the world. I had some leftovers that I bought from a company that was going out of business, one I used on my 2002 Corvette Z06 And one in my 2017 Silverado dual cab LT. I installed it on the top console in the middle where the back window switch would be, I had to make a hole to install it. To connect it all it needs is a hot and a ground, you will find those when you remove the plate where you will mount it, probe around the wires till you find one hot all the time. The homelink uses very little current to operate and none when not in use. they come with three escutcheons, different colors, the scutcheon has latches that hook up to the the computer board. you can pull them apart if you have to but there should be no reason. the package comes with a template, I use to use a dremel with a fluted drill. at low speed if it's a one speed work fast so yu you don't melt it. One last thing, they are not cheap, you can get them on Amazon, search for Homelink 60-HMLKV5ALL. don't buy anything else they will not last forever like the real ones.... You can also buy used take off mirrors that have them from eBay. I bought one a while back for $45. Please pardon the grammatical errors or spelling errors. I have a condition that make my hands shake and I end up typing what i don't want... from 60 wpm Code writer to something like 10. And have to read and reread to catch grammatical errors.
It doesn't work like that; the length of the studs sticking out from your rotor has hast to be smaller than the spacer you are installing, normally the spacers have to be 2" or more for the studs to hide inside the adapter. But you have some choices, install shorter studs, or cut the bolts. When you cut the bolts make sure you don't over heat them otherwise they will loose some of the temper and everytime you torque the bolts, they stretch until they fail. Spacers are a hot topic to lots of manufacturers, installers and others.. Patience required to read below; contains a LONG DIATRIBE OF OLD MAN MEMORIES... DON'T READ IF YOU DON'T WANT TO READ ABOUT OLD MEN STORIES... This is a story about spacers (true) Some of you were not even born then In 1993 I was looking to buy a 1911 porsche, it was year end for them. Porsche was shipping most of the cars with the widee body kit (think about 6-8" sticking out from the car. they used them mainly to install 11" wide wheels or wider... I looked at the rear of the car and it had like 5" or 6" spacers... wow... The a few years later I ran one of my Corvettes in the Silver State Classic, it's run on Highway 318 north part of the state. Highway was closed for 3 days. I was a (993) Porsche 911 with those big spacers running the 190MPH class, I ran 150 MPH class, it was a timed event so the only time you would pass anyone would because they too slow, if you start passing people you are going to fast and you will get disqualified, some places I was running 170 mph or so because there where places that you could run your bracket and you had to make time... But I talk to the guy on the Porsche and he was totally confident on the spacers... Google Silver State Classic.
Yes, that's correct, In case the studs are too long there are two choices. 1. to install shorter lugs, just remember they have to work without cutting. 2. install spacers that have enough room for the factory studs. Most all have that unless you are installing a "fit all" And again on the danger of repeating myself and being ******, don't forget Hub-centric and Wheel-centric.
Sorry to disagree with you, if you run your truck in any competition, YOU are actually putting your life and the life of spectators, your competitors etc...in very serious danger. actually if the car or truck is entered in a race, you have to have it teched and a sticker is applied to the car showing that is inspected. if they see you don't have hub centric wheels you will not be able to race. Now if you run the truck doing crazy stunts then having hubcentric wheels are even more important. Studs are not high quality steel, try oover torquing them and you will see them deform. Even stock cars have Hub centric wheels, even tough the vehicle has conical studs. I have raced cars, both off road and on track and I've seen guys loose their wheels at over 100mph. there is no way to save the vehicle and unless you have a good roll cage and 5 point harnesses, you will not survive. Hub centric spacers are not that more expensive than hubcentric ones. My truck in the pictures has a big spacers because they are Nissan wheels and the lug nuts are not conical, they are flat with a washer like the old days. If one nut gets loose the car will feel it on the steering wheel. There are lots of things I don't know about, but spacers I know a lot about.
It's been my experience with LS motors with superchargers is the they need to be tuned. If you don't you run the risk of melting the motor if you run it too lean, you need replacement injectors and replace the fuel pump. Plus you need to re-tuned on a dyno. Then it will run like a spanked monkey....
You state on this topic "Wheel Spacers rubbing" Did you put on spacers on the wheels or did you install a leveling kit on the suspension.. If you had to install wheels spacers, then that will be the problem. Installing leveling kits do not "usually"change the geometry of the front wheels. If you used wheels other than factory wheels, then that could be the problem. If the diameter of the new tires are larger than the stock wheels, then that also could be a problem. If they do not fit correctly then do not drive the truck like that, I've seen trucks that break steering parts and other suspension parts. If the offset is different than the factory wheels and tires, then a wheels spacer can help the problem. There are some wheel spacers that are too dangerous and can kill you and others. On my truck I ultimately installed 2.5" spacers to make the Nissan wheels fit correctly. The way to do this is to get spacers that are wheel centric and hub centric. I don't pretend that I know all, only difference is that I'm 69 years old and been customizing vehicles most of my life. I've made all the mistakes also... LOL If you want any specific info I would be honored to share my old man knowledge with you guys.
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