BlackOps

Has anyone considered just smoking the amber lens like a lot of people do with the entire headlight assembly, taillights, etc.? Or just leave a small vertical strip of amber on the outside and smoke the rest? I wouldn't mind the amber lens if it wasn't so bulky. Completely removing the lens does look good, but I'm back and forth with the idea because it also looks like something is missing.

These 2 items are one of the biggest complaints I have purchasing my first Denali. Old technology and yet is still hasn't been incorporated into the trucks. I'm not fond of using a key fob to unlock and lock my vehicle and using a key to start it. I have a 2011 vehicle (car) that all I have to do is have the fob close by (in my pocket) and I can push the button on the door handle to lock/unlock the vehicle and push the button on the dash to start/stop the engine. So...I was wondering if anyone has added these features to their 2014+ GM truck? Parts? Purchased from? What's involved? Pics?

I just realized...if I remove the amber lens, I'm going to have to swap out the bulb. If they factory bulb is clear, then I'll need to replace it with an amber one. If I don't do a switchback bulb and just get an amber LED bulb, do I still need resistors? I have VLED LED bulbs in my license plate lights, reverse lights, and cargo lights and didn't have to wire in any resistors.

Do you know of any write-ups or how-to's on baking them? I just don't want to mess up a set of Denali headlights as I'm sure they're not cheap to replace. I don't mind tackling the job if I could get a good write-up/how-to or video.

I am nearly 100% satisfied with the looks of my truck aside from the wheels, which will be addressed with aftermarket wheels when the timing/funds are right. The only other issue I have and it really bugs me, is the huge amber lens/turn signals in the headlight. I consider myself very handy, mechanically inclined, and have always done my own work. I have done motor swaps, tranny swaps, rear end swaps, cam swaps, lift kits, drop kits, you name it. Though I have never separated a pair of headlights. So...I was wondering if anyone has done a write-up or how-to separate and reassemble the 2014+ GMC headlights? I don't know how much a new headlight costs, but if I'm in over my head, I don't want to risk it. I have tons of tools and would buy whatever I don't have for the job. I like the look of the factory headlights and would prefer to just modify the ones I have. Unless someone out there has a swap program where you send in your stock headlights and they send you a modified factory pair, I really don't want to buy an aftermarket pair. Also, before even attempting to take them apart, can the lens/turn signal even be removed? If so, would it look funny without the lens? Does anyone make a clear/chrome replacement lens? Is the factory bulb amber or clear?

And they match the XKGlow pods exactly? 'Bout time you updated that sig pic. Lol

Hrmmmm...I like the evenly distributed light as opposed to 2 pods that I have.

Did you wire them into the power and ground wires that came built into the harness? You said you cut a 16' strip in half, so did you only use a 1 power and ground on each side of the truck leaving the other 2 unused?

Any pics further away to see the light output all the way across from a distance?

Pics?

Not sure what cheap LED strips you're referring to. If you already have the kit in hand, just take one of the LEDs out of the box and power it up with 12V. Then you'll know for sure if you like the color or not. In my opinion, when looking at them straight on, it's not as noticeable. However, when they're installed in the truck and it's dark outside, shining on those black steps really makes it noticeably purple.

The pic enhances it a little, but definitely not a bright white or even a white with a slight blue hue. They're definitely on the purple side. Save yourself the time and labor and don't install the LEDs that come with the steps if you aren't fond of the purple. Get different lights and substitute them.

These, but in white: http://www.xkglow.com/60PC_Ultra_Bright_Motorcycle_LED_Engine_Neon_Kit_p/xk034001.htm If you look at the pics within the link, you'll see what it all comes with. You can usually find them on eBay from XKGlow for $43.97 shipped. They're the same ones I used for the footwell and under the hood.

Lol it's because they're only a few weeks old and I believe today will be the first day I drive in the rain with them. As a matter of fact, I'm gonna buy a brush specifically for them. When I washed my truck for the first time with the steps, it tore my wash mitt up. The coating on them is much rougher than their old coating.

I couldn't stand the purple LEDs that came with the Amp Reasearch Power Running Boards, so I cut them off and replaced them with the extra XKGlow LED pods I had laying around. Gotta say I like them a whole lot better and they're brighter. Now my entire truck matches with all the lighting both interior and exterior. Here's a comparison.

Omg that's sick.

Damn that looks good. Next set of tires I buy is 305s. I'm having regrets with my 295s. I just wish Toyo made this size in a M/T or R/T.

I like it better with the air dam, but that's just my opinion.

Carlos2014, Any side pics? Closeups of the wheels/tires?

I wonder if the lower air dam also plays a role into the look. Certainly it does. Did you have a body kit, or leveling kit only? There's less than a .5" (.43") difference in height between your tire and mine and of course that would have to be divided in 2. Looks like I'm gonna have to get some aftermarket wheels and the 305's soon.

No way?! I was thinking it was 3-4". Maybe it's the angle of the photo. Do you have a body kit? Also, it may be the rims and tires also. I'm on stock wheels with 295/55/20. The first pic looks like the wheel poke out, but in the 2nd one it doesn't. Any pics showing the tires in relation to the fender by how it sticks out?

jbmb06, those 20s look big. Lol Good looking truck. What size lift?

The bolt I used was over double the length of the stock one. I could substitute tubing or fabricate a spacer equal in length, but I'm in no hurry. There's nothing wrong with the washers I have. The RC 2.5" utilizes a spacer above and below the strut. I didn't measure the thickness. I don't believe any level kits come with a-arms and usually only utilize spacers.

Lol! This is "adjustable". U can add or subtract washers as needed. It's getting the job done and a 2" long piece of flat stock with 2 holes in it is no high tech alternative. It's not that serious. Lol

Ok...I can't take complete credit for this fix as this has been done by a couple of members here, but I can take full credit for the way I did it. For those who have considered lifting or leveling your 2015 Sierra Denali and have had worries about the magnetic ride control affecting the ride, the solution is within. There is 2 ways to do this. 1 way is to fabricate a bracket with some flat stock, drill 2 holes, connect the bottom hole in the fabricated bracket to the original bracket that is attached to the upper control arm, and then connect the upper hole in the fabricated bracket to the MRC rod. If you search, you can find these photos or maybe someone who has done it like this will chime in and provide pics. Now, if you want an easier way or just don't have the tools to cut, drill, etc. and fabricate a bracket, a longer metric bolt and a handful of washers net the same result. I have the tools and material to fabricate said bracket, but I wanted go this route as it was trial and error for me. This is due to not knowing the starting position before installing the kit. Sadly, I didn't even know the truck had MRC before installing the kit. It wasn't till I experienced the extremely poor ride after the install that I figured out that it had it. Anyhow, I would highly suggest you figuring out a way to measure and pinpoint a "home" position for the MRC rod and then after the kit, you can determine how much you need to move the MRC rod to put it back where it started. If you're like me and you never started out with a home position, you can just add washers until you get the desired ride you want. For me, it was a total of 18 washers that equated to 1" in length. I taped them for the ease of installation. As you can see from the pic, instead of raising the MRC rod by fabricating a bracket, I raised it with washers on the bracket that is affixed to the upper control arm. Hope this helps!