Zachlovesfood

I'm definitely not sure haha. I followed the GMPartsDirect vehicle finder and that's the part number it gave me. I don't see why part numbers would be different between 1500 and 2500 series, although I would bet left and right actuators are different part numbers. But ultimately it looks like I should go to the dealership to confirm part numbers and pricing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can only find them for $85 on eBay. Twice the price what a bummer. Anyone know what the dealership sells them for? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You guys bought them all! Haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Came from a 2014 Silverado 1500 LT, this past weekend I picked up a 2015 Silverado 2500 LTZ with the 6.6 and 4wd. Used with 94k miles, but I had a diesel mechanic friend look, and he said looks like it had been babied, just driven daily. I like this truck a lot! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm 2WD. Upper ball joint is at a noticeable angle, but not near any extreme. I'd like to get new UCA's to correct that down the line. Probably just wait til these ball joints are tired and replace with new UCAs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So here's the before and after, stock to now. Stock Rancho Shocks: * Front Left -- 35.75" * Front Right -- 35.75" * Rear Left -- 39.25" * Rear Right -- 38.75" And then, after Bilstein highest setting, a MotoFab 1/2" spacer on top of that, and 33" Toyo tires: * Front Left -- 38.875" * Front Right -- 38.875" * Rear Left -- 39.5" * Rear Right -- 39.5" Very close to level, I'm pretty satisfied. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's awesome!! Where do you guys find all of these optional mirrors? Are they from other GM vehicles? I tried googling but I'm still not completely sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So this evening I added 1/2" spacers on top of my existing 2" Bilstein level. Ride seems the same as before. I'm going to let the shocks settle back overnight before I take fender well measurements. I'm also going to schedule an appointment for an alignment this week. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Baha! No, that's the reflection of the dumpster behind my truck. I guess I polished her a little too much! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Debadged the 'Silverado' and 'LT' emblems Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I can understand the need for replacement when the u-bolts are overstretched, and the tensile strength is worn out... But if threads are getting messed up from one use on a bolt that's supposed to withstand that much pressure, there's definitely issues with those nuts and bolts! He said he could've removed his u-bolts with a rachet... Sounds like they weren't even stretched until he reapplied them. It was the same with my bolts, they were extremely loose from factory and gave me a vibration. Nothing a big torque wrench couldn't fix though! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks fantastic. Tire size?

This is my best friend, Miah. She goes to work with me every day! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Top setting, still rides great!

Well to elaborate, from reading, the main issue that points towards the u-bolts is when people add a taller or shorter block to the rear end, and reinstall the GM u-bolts. From what I've read they're only made to install once, since once they're torqued down they stretch. Going tighter can help, but if you loosen them up, you'll have to go tighter to stretch them a tad bit further than before. Everyone's heard that, right? So that's what got me thinking, as a metal fabricator. We often get the same metals in our shop, but they don't always weld the same or bend the same, etc. I had a bouncy/vibrating rear end, and I guess that axle was shimmying around under those u-bolts. Tightened them and it worked wonders. This also led me to think, when people were installing taller lift kits with new u-bolts, they were getting u-bolts from companies that probably ordered them from another company... So in theory, they might have no idea of the quality, consistency of manufacturing, or tensile strength of the u-bolts they have in stock, thus leading to an inconsistency in torque specs with each lift kit... Or in my case, in was with the GM stock bolts. Sorry for ranting. Try it man, I hope it helps.

Bilsteins all around, top setting in front. Can't wait for 33" tires.

You're correct, the rear shocks are not adjustable. They're often described as " 0-1 inches " but with further research, I found that it means it can accommodate a block that's 1" taller than the stock block and still work properly. I'm not quite sure why that number fluctuated, might have something to do with how full the gas tank is. Chevy lean is no myth haha. It could also have to do with raising the front, slightly shifted the weight to the back and leveled it out a bit.

Front shocks -- $186.24 delivered from AJUSA Rear shocks -- $143.22 delivered from AJUSA Install -- $100 local mechanic (I observed the process, took him an hour each, but would've taken me longer trying to figure it out!) Alignment -- $85 local shop (took about an hour) So that's $329.46 in parts, $185 in labor. I aimed the headlights back down myself. I'll be looking into tires as well, but it'll have to wait until after the holidays.

Got some pics with the boat attached. 37.75" in front, 38.0625" in back. That's still 5/16" of rake. Granted, if I loaded the bed down more, or put a heavier trailer on, I'd probably end up slightly nose high. I kind of anticipated that being a possibility, in which case I want to look into getting the Roadmaster Active Suspension. It's like add a leaf, but helps handling whether you have a trailer/loaded bed or not, plus you don't have to take anything apart... Worth the research.

Got some pics with the boat attached. 37.75" in front, 38.0625" in back. That's still 5/16" of rake. Granted, if I loaded the bed down more, or put a heavier trailer on, I'd probably end up slightly nose high. I kind of anticipated that being a possibility, in which case I want to look into getting the Roadmaster Active Suspension. It's like add a leaf, but helps handling whether you have a trailer/loaded bed or not, plus you don't have to take anything apart... Worth the research.

I'm no photographer, but I tried to get some good pics. As you can see, a slight rake. I also included a picture of the front end angle, seeing that most people are curious about that as well. For being the top setting, it barely changed the angle at all. The steering feels even more comfortable than before. Next I'll try to put some weight in the bed to see how far down it goes. I seldom tow or carry large loads, but it would be nice to know!

275/55R20's on right now. I plan on trying 275/60 and 275/65, since there's quite a bit of room when I cut the wheels and measure. I can for sure put 33's, most likely 34, but 35 will definitely require trimming. I don't tow often, but I have to load up the bed often for work. Usually it's not more than 1000 lbs in weight, and I have yet to try it. I'll post pics and measure the bed loaded down when I can.

I'll definitely post some pictures tomorrow!

I got my Bilsteins installed today, on top setting. I still have 1.5" of rake, and that's with stock blocks in the rear. It's perfect. Ride quality is better than stock Ranchos, and I'm on stock 20's. (I had the 17's before, but they just didn't look as well as I liked. Only difference I noticed between the 17's and 20's was that the 17's tire pressure fluctuated ALOT more than the 20's.) I'm iffy about adding blocks in the rear though, as it would change your driveshaft angle, which just doesn't sound appealing. Anyway, here's the fender well notes I took of before and after. Stock Rancho Shocks: * Front Left -- 35.75" * Front Right -- 35.75" * Rear Left -- 39.25" * Rear Right -- 38.75" Bilstein Shocks: * Front Left -- 37.75 * Front Right -- 37.75 * Rear Left -- 39.25 * Rear Right -- 39.125