Wheelguy

Nice, simple mod. Have those on my Denali. Pretty nice for factory wheels & polished wheels seem so much easier to maintain.

Good looking truck. My last 3 trucks have all been whatever white tricoat GM had at the time - 2012 LTZ 5.3 2WD CC, 2016 SLT 5.3 4WD CC & 2019 Denali 6.2 4WD CC. Loved every one of them - 2016 was my least favorite due to the 8 speed transmission clunkiness.

I would tend to think so, based on what’s shown on the PIP, starting at the bottom of page 1 & continuing on page 2. It explains the stub shaft needs to be ordered from the Warranty Parts Center using a special form & from where the dealer can obtain that form. The PIP then states the PI (Parts Information) will be updates when the stub shaft is available through CC&A (customer care & aftersales - see here for that info: https://mccicorp.com/work/gm-cca/). I read all of that to mean that the stub is a special order for now & once it becomes available via what is probably the "normal" ordering process through CC&A, then the PIP will be updated so the parts list can be updated and show the stub shaft & its P/N. Please, don’t take my word for it. Go over this with your advisor, service manager, shop manager or technical bulletin specialist.

Silverados are all like GMC except for LTZ & High Country trims.

You should see how debris like that gets down into a MultiPro tailgate. Trapped a raccoon in a cage trap with a towel over it. It tried to pull the towel into the cage & got mulch in there. When relocating the animal, the mulch got all in the tailgate. Air compressor got most of the big stuff but still had to wipe down with some Adams Waterless Wash. ?

I’d urge you to have your dealership to try using some chassis ears on the PCV pipe & see if that’s from where the noise is coming. See my other posts in this thread. Nothing in your report shows they used those find the source of the noise. Not implying everyone is having the same issue but would be nice for them to check it out. If they can’t, take it to a dealer that can.

Sorry to hear that. My dealership told me it’s the pressure control valve & found it using chassis ears. Might be worth it to have them try that if they haven’t already when you take it back in.

Just Google the P/N or look for it on any Chevy/GMC Accessories site. https://www.google.com/search?q=84184471&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-us

Makes sense. So that P/N is missing from the PIP attached above....so unless the stub shaft is also at the dealer.....no sense in taking it in yet (IMO). And if it’s the same revision (B - dated 05AU19) that one owner (Thejet07) has already reported not so good results, things may not be looking so good. Maybe this has been discussed already & forgive me if I’m rehashing but I’d think if the 4 P/Ns from Jet’s attempted repair were known (3 in chart should be consistent) & you other guys asked your dealer to check the P/Ns currently available to them, particularly the stub shaft, then you’ll get an idea if each truck is getting the same thing. If it is all the same, then I wouldn’t get my hopes up too much that this PIP revision is the answer. I hope this is clear & not introducing confusion.

Not trying to pick at you but I think people were unsure of whether you actually already had the truck or were asking if sensors were an option if you were perhaps shopping for a new truck. Not really worth debating over - simply confusion. Sometimes what seems like a simple question doesn’t always have an equally simple answer, as I feel you could possibly find out in this case. You wouldn’t look for standard equipment like sensors, steering wheels, engines or wire harnesses on a GM accessories site. You’d probably have to find a truck that already has the sensors and use the VIN off of it in order to find all the parts that would need to be ordered for whatever kind of sensors you’re wanting (park assist, blind spot, cross traffic alert, etc.) as well as knowing whether or not this can all be integrated into the vehicle you have (maybe you will need a new driver seat for the vibration warnings). You may need an upgraded Infotainment system so you can change settings. Any extra switches needed, or harnesses. Not that I am any sort of expert, but I can see this potentially turning into a huge project as far as just gathering all the required parts. Next, I’d think you would need to know what, if anything, will need to be programmed. Probably not a complete answer but I would hope it serves 2 purposes showing why people asked about your truck situation & then the scope of the research that might be needed. For all I know you might be able to walk into a dealer and ask them for a complete list of parts needed for a specific package and all the programming & labor. Whatever you end up finding out & doing, I hope all goes well & sorry I’m not knowledgeable enough to fully answer your question but maybe it and the responses above will get you started in the right direction.

Again, not an expert but that is version A of the PIP & the document was later revised lifting restrictions apparently because they confirmed the issues were only related to SU4. I’m guessing they needed all axles to see which ones were the culprit(s)?

Guys, read the line above the table listing the P/Ns. Maybe I’m mistaken but I read that as there isn’t a full list of parts yet (updated when stub shaft is available.....). I’d be pointing this out & having the dealership confirm they’re doing this correctly & have all the parts.

You’re like my dad - a back with a crack in it & I am always asking him if he lost his a$$ at the casino.? All kidding aside, I hope you find some solution for your discomfort.

If I really wanted the black bow ties - I'd do a wrap or plastidip. I know it's a challenge though - just would depend on how bad I wanted it. I would think masking off the caps wouldn't be too bad though. I know it's not for everyone & I'd be a bit happier with "real" OEM caps with clearcoat over everything. Plus, potentially taking off all 4 wheels...a bit too much work for me. ?

Checked the drawings & you're correct - there isn't a P/N for polished cap with a black bow tie only the gold one or the brushed with black bow tie or different iterations with a mostly black cap (outside the bow tie). Sorry. They could always add one at some point, but I wouldn't hold my breath.

Just checked the wheel drawing compared to the center cap drawing & your wheel's cap dimensions match the ones shown on the center cap drawing - so that cap with the black GMC logo should fit your wheel based on the information to which I have access.

Did you notice this in the description (if a concern to a buyer): Sneaky sellers.

Those appear to be polished wheels - do you feel that center cap matches the polished wheel or is the cap slightly brighter at all in person? Just curious. Thanks.

Haven’t physically seen the polished version with black bowtie but will check the cap drawing I have. If it exists, I’ll send you the P/N which I would encourage you to confirm via your preferred dealer. Once you confirm the P/N is legit (there could be a typo on a print or the part was just never put into full production) then you could search the parts sites like gmpartsdirect for cheaper prices. I can only check so much, unfortunately. Also, the finish with polished caps can be a bit brighter than the wheels. Polishing isn’t as good for matching as plating, painting or brushed finishes (machined finish). Just the nature of that polishing process.

Thanks for the pic - that’s the wheel I assumed you had but it’s always safe to double check via pic. I’m pretty sure that black logo GMC cap will fit. Most sites ask around $33 (USD) apiece plus shipping for that cap. I will confirm the wheel/cap dims tomorrow for fit. P/N for cap is 84388427 & my dealership has confirmed it shows up for them.

Check your PM.

Please post a pic of your current wheels and one close up of the caps. I’m blindly guessing you have one of the two shown below and more than likely the right one (left has a circular machined finish, right is polished): I personally haven’t seen GMC overlays but that doesn’t mean they don’t exist. Alternatively, you could consider plastidip or painting yourself but as small as that is, I can understand if that’s not an option I know there is a polished cap with a black logo that’s not seen too much or easily found (installed on T1s). My concern is the finish could be much brighter than a typical polished wheel. Here’s an image: My Denali has polished wheels but came with all chrome center caps. They look OK but I’d prefer the ones above if I was sure they’d match closer to polished brightness versus chrome. Chrome GMC caps: All 3 should fit. The black & red logo caps come from the same chart number (drawing) so that means the plastic underneath should be the same. Once I see what wheels you have, I can take a look at the drawing for your wheel & see if it matches what the cap maker suggests on theirs if you’d like.

Nope - it was a chirping sound that typically occurs once you get to a consistent speed. It will come & go in shorter spurts when the RPM vary more, like when driving around town. For me, I noticed it most when driving above 50mph consistently like on divided highways and interstates with cruise control on. As soon as DFM would deactivate, the chirping would go away. It was very difficult to get it to do it driving in stop & go traffic. The longer I could drive and keep the engine under a light load (low RPMs) the easier it was to get the chirp to start. Once it started, it chirped so frequently it would sound like a consistent squeaking or high pitched rattle. I tried to record it with my phone but there was too much ambient noise & it’s what others might call faint, especially if they have a hard time hearing higher pitched sounds. It can’t be heard over the radio. The sound hasn’t changed or gotten worse or louder for 2k miles and I haven’t tried driving near retaining walls or sound barrier walls with the windows down to see if it’s more easily heard. I honestly try not to listen for it because it will bother me more & then piss me off more since nothing can be done about my particular issue. Yes, it completely sucks balls that anyone pays what they demand out of a truck and it ends up disappointing you in any way. However, since there’s nothing that can be done about it right now, all I can do is try to enjoy everything else and try to put that part out of my mind or I will just not enjoy it. What other choice do I have other than to get more frustrated or go through a possibly very ugly buy back or lemon law fiasco that more than likely isn’t going to go in my favor? The dealership is held hostage since it falls under warranty and they can only do what GM allows or instructs or they might end up making it or something else worse. I’ve worked in the auto industry for close to 30 years, most of it in design & engineering areas & there’s been so much change in so many aspects that I honestly feel it’s finally catching up to the automakers. They’re still pushing for styling changes while incorporating new tech under the hood & behind the scenes as well as squeezing suppliers for cheaper components so suppliers run to Mexico, China & India for cheaper labor (and as a result usually lower quality) - eventually all that has to have a negative impact. Too much to do & not enough time to do it. It wouldn’t bother me one bit if they stretched the lifespan of platforms a few years longer but I doubt they’d ever do that. We’re being trained to be a throw away society. Gotta have the latest & greatest. Sorry, getting on a soapbox & not my thing. Just my opinion on a big ship that is really hard to turn on a dime.

Sorry, I wasn’t clear after the date portion - that RPO part was intended for other folks who may not be at or near a dealership and wanting to know which axle they had.

I’d suggest you figure out what you want to do as far as paint coating/protection first. You can wax, seal or have ceramic applied or some sort of film/wrap. What you do there will impact what you need to invest for washing and maintaining the coating(s). As far as your cleaning agent/soap - pay attention to what it will or will not remove. You may not want a cleaner that removes something you’ve spent a weekend applying. The basics of washing are above - it’s mostly about not contaminating your wash mitt/whatever or the water or towels being used. You drop it, you stop using it and get another. It’s easy to get caught up in all the products so ask or do the research before going all out. Also, not all products are intended to keep your paint/clear swirl free. Swirls being the light scratches you typically see on cars that go,through contact car washes. There are products that can cause swirls with the intent that a paint correction (machine polish) will follow later.