Wheelguy

Please post a pic of your current wheels and one close up of the caps. I’m blindly guessing you have one of the two shown below and more than likely the right one (left has a circular machined finish, right is polished): I personally haven’t seen GMC overlays but that doesn’t mean they don’t exist. Alternatively, you could consider plastidip or painting yourself but as small as that is, I can understand if that’s not an option I know there is a polished cap with a black logo that’s not seen too much or easily found (installed on T1s). My concern is the finish could be much brighter than a typical polished wheel. Here’s an image: My Denali has polished wheels but came with all chrome center caps. They look OK but I’d prefer the ones above if I was sure they’d match closer to polished brightness versus chrome. Chrome GMC caps: All 3 should fit. The black & red logo caps come from the same chart number (drawing) so that means the plastic underneath should be the same. Once I see what wheels you have, I can take a look at the drawing for your wheel & see if it matches what the cap maker suggests on theirs if you’d like.

Nope - it was a chirping sound that typically occurs once you get to a consistent speed. It will come & go in shorter spurts when the RPM vary more, like when driving around town. For me, I noticed it most when driving above 50mph consistently like on divided highways and interstates with cruise control on. As soon as DFM would deactivate, the chirping would go away. It was very difficult to get it to do it driving in stop & go traffic. The longer I could drive and keep the engine under a light load (low RPMs) the easier it was to get the chirp to start. Once it started, it chirped so frequently it would sound like a consistent squeaking or high pitched rattle. I tried to record it with my phone but there was too much ambient noise & it’s what others might call faint, especially if they have a hard time hearing higher pitched sounds. It can’t be heard over the radio. The sound hasn’t changed or gotten worse or louder for 2k miles and I haven’t tried driving near retaining walls or sound barrier walls with the windows down to see if it’s more easily heard. I honestly try not to listen for it because it will bother me more & then piss me off more since nothing can be done about my particular issue. Yes, it completely sucks balls that anyone pays what they demand out of a truck and it ends up disappointing you in any way. However, since there’s nothing that can be done about it right now, all I can do is try to enjoy everything else and try to put that part out of my mind or I will just not enjoy it. What other choice do I have other than to get more frustrated or go through a possibly very ugly buy back or lemon law fiasco that more than likely isn’t going to go in my favor? The dealership is held hostage since it falls under warranty and they can only do what GM allows or instructs or they might end up making it or something else worse. I’ve worked in the auto industry for close to 30 years, most of it in design & engineering areas & there’s been so much change in so many aspects that I honestly feel it’s finally catching up to the automakers. They’re still pushing for styling changes while incorporating new tech under the hood & behind the scenes as well as squeezing suppliers for cheaper components so suppliers run to Mexico, China & India for cheaper labor (and as a result usually lower quality) - eventually all that has to have a negative impact. Too much to do & not enough time to do it. It wouldn’t bother me one bit if they stretched the lifespan of platforms a few years longer but I doubt they’d ever do that. We’re being trained to be a throw away society. Gotta have the latest & greatest. Sorry, getting on a soapbox & not my thing. Just my opinion on a big ship that is really hard to turn on a dime.

Sorry, I wasn’t clear after the date portion - that RPO part was intended for other folks who may not be at or near a dealership and wanting to know which axle they had.

I’d suggest you figure out what you want to do as far as paint coating/protection first. You can wax, seal or have ceramic applied or some sort of film/wrap. What you do there will impact what you need to invest for washing and maintaining the coating(s). As far as your cleaning agent/soap - pay attention to what it will or will not remove. You may not want a cleaner that removes something you’ve spent a weekend applying. The basics of washing are above - it’s mostly about not contaminating your wash mitt/whatever or the water or towels being used. You drop it, you stop using it and get another. It’s easy to get caught up in all the products so ask or do the research before going all out. Also, not all products are intended to keep your paint/clear swirl free. Swirls being the light scratches you typically see on cars that go,through contact car washes. There are products that can cause swirls with the intent that a paint correction (machine polish) will follow later.

I don’t feel you’re being unreasonable. You paid good money for a working & non-leaking truck with a limited warranty. They screwed shit up while working on it. On them to fix or replace it. I’d try some Folex (Lowe’s) on the grease spots left on anything that’s fabric (test a small spot) if you have to do it yourself.

Might want to check that date again...11/2019 hasn’t arrived yet. If you want a build sheet with all RPO codes, you can email [email protected] & request the build sheet for your VIN. I did this on a weekday & had a reply in a few hours.

I think the issue is getting the average Joe to understand what they’re seeing onscreen without the driver thinking something is wrong, becoming information overload or worse yet turning them into a distracted driver. I think going from a consistent deactivation pattern to something more random, for lack of better words, is what ended the display onscreen. Maybe GM will figure out a way to translate it to a more easy to understand form & bring back the cylinder count in the future. They’ve got their hands full right now fine tuning things & dealing with the previously unplanned midcycle refresh then development for T2 will be coming up soon.

Simply put, hydro dipping is transferring graphic films onto a substrate (painted or primed) by means of floating the graphics on the surface of the water then dipping the substrate into the water through the graphics. The graphics wrap around the substrate and stick to it. That’s how the wood grain looking plastic was done in most of the GM trucks.

Great write up - more are needed for the T1’s.

Mine didn’t have anything to do with the transmission & of the 2 people, including myself, that have taken their truck into the dealer & reported back, neither were told anything was normal. With that being said, it also doesn’t mean there is definitely a fix for whatever it is you’re hearing either. i would be more surprised if these are all transmission related versus PCV related since an engineering change is being looked at for the PCV. That tells me the PCV issue is more widespread. Plus, the dealership didn’t have to get any GM engineers involved to diagnose.

No, look closer. It might be harder to see if you're only looking at the images in this thread. Both front and rear openings are completely different. GMC has an "SD card" shape (chamfer on the upper front sides of both wheel wells) & the sheet metal is recessed all around the wheel well to accommodate the plastic trim piece. The Chevy is closer to round & has no place for the trim pieces to sit nor the retaining slots needed for the clips that hold the trim pieces onto the truck. I would imagine the Chevy Accessories fender flares are held on with screws and/or adhesive and would stick out away from the body more than the GMC does (since the GMC is recessed in the sheet metal where the plastic seats). GMC: Chevy:

Not a problem. That’s one of the reasons we’re on the forums - to share knowledge & experiences. Thanks goes to the service tech that was nice enough to allow me in the shop area & actually show me what he was doing and make sure I was OK with it.

I think you need to look again at the differences between a Silverado & a Sierra, particularly the wheel well openings. Not even close to the same.

Not meant for you - I know you checked. Others were questioning which trim levels were affected. I believe the original TSB stated a specific axle RPO - not sure if that's trim level specific or not (I would doubt it).

Look at your build sheet - RPO SU4 front axle only. SU5 isn't affected.

That's not something the user has ever been able to control without a mod, including previous generations. Updates so far have been bug/problem fixes, mostly or at least that's the main focus.

Just wait for those nice IN winters & road salt! ? Weather has sucked around us lately in terms of rain & predictions - pop up storms are coming late this year.

It may not be the tranny - I had exact same symptoms & was a known issues with the pressure control valve. I would request the dealer to throw chassis ears on the PCV pipe. You’re probably going to have to be able to reliably reproduce the sound so you can tell them how to do it. Also, make sure the person diagnosing or going along for ride along has good hearing. If it’s not PCV pipe then it might be tranny. Adaptive valves (flappers) used to chirp but that was fixed on the K2. That noise would sound like it’s coming from the backseat or bed if it were the valves. My 2016 did it but it would only be an occasional chirp (open/close). This PCV chirp (if that’s what yours is) is more constant when it starts to do it, not just 2 chirps every now & then.

Nicely done. Simple and nice idea to borrow from Sierra. Lets you plug the stake holes & makes the bed rails more appealing & uniform from cab to tailgate IMO. Be careful with hard folding tonneaus if that might be next on the menu. The rails are notched to clear that assist handle when folded down in storage position & clamps move towards the cab in some cases.

Nice idea. Makes those stake pocket holes obsolete.

I'm not sure if it's supposed to happen or not - doesn't seem to me like it would be something sensible but I'm not a mechanic either. Just referencing what was a supposed symptom. I'm just letting you know the specifics others have reported & what I experienced & heard in the loaner I was driving for 3 weeks. I didn't grab the bell housing to check it, but I did test the 4WD portion & the sound I heard went away in 2WD so I jumped to the conclusion it was the same thing. Your sound, if what I was hearing in the video is "the sound" about which you're concerned (the clinking), isn't what I would ever classify as a jingle and I didn't have to stop & go to make it happen in the loaner. For me, it happened at speed while driving around and was a consistent sound, meaning it keeps happening without ever braking. At the same time, I can't say for sure your sound isn't related to everyone else's concerns. Make sense? If you're truly worried about it, take it into the dealership and at least get a diagnosis - maybe it's something completely different, which is very possible, and they can fix it. Sure, it's a PITA but knowing what it is and the status of the problem might give you a bit of relief if it's really getting to you, which I can completely understand. Just trying to help you self diagnose if that's what you're after. Ultimately, it's up to you. I wish I could help you more - I'm experiencing annoying/concerning noises myself but they've been diagnosed (dated 10/2018) and GM still hasn't found a solution for it (see thread/URL below for that one). In that thread, the OP described similar sounds and conditions which I heard but the causes of the sounds were completely different. The OP in that thread has yet to reference anything other than a transmission planetary gear, so not much info I could pass along to my dealer or info on what led to them pointing to the transmission. My dealer used chassis ears to find my chirping sound (which could resemble a belt a bit) and it was a completely different area causing the sound (supposedly).

Best of luck - and if it swings in your favor, get that PPF on there. ?

Have you not brought that up to your dealer? This was an issue on the K2XX trucks with painted bumpers & they allowed for a one time repaint. After that one repaint, you were on your own.

Did you get your stake pocket plugs from Schildmeier or some other maker? I got the Schildmeier plugs & they fit great & match the texture on the rail caps as well.

Can't speak for others but your sound seems to be louder than the odd tink tink tink sound I was hearing on the loaner which I was driving and suspect was this jingle jingle sound. It definitely went away in 4WD. I never noticed the sound you've recorded (if I'm hearing this right on my phone) - I could hear it in the cab without windows down at speed. IMO, if you read back at the beginning of this thread & see the video posted on imgur - reach under there & grab that bell housing & it slides back & forth then you've probably got the issue & it might not have manifested just yet. The sound I heard reminded me of very very small rocks (think sand like but fine rocks) pinging underneath - would go away as soon as put in 4WD and come right back in 2WD.