Darth_Vader

The IO3 doesn't have the HMI module, and some of the wiring that goes along with it. You can upgrade the IO3 to an IO4/5/6 and it will add in that module, use the google machine and search for Silverado IO3 upgrade and a couple of options will pop up. If you do that should be able to do the retrofit of the rest as you tie this stuff in at the A11 radio module. But seeing as how I didn't upgrade from an IO3 I cannot say for certain that this will work. So, that is my disclaimer.

You have your opinion, which you are entitled to but it doesn't have any value in this thread. This is something that people do want to do for what ever reason, which has no effect on you. You are comparing it to extended cabs and crew cabs to justify that spending $2000 on a WT trim isn't worth saving some money. Even with all of the mods I have on my truck, look at my signature, the list is extensive, I don't have $30k in this truck. Instead of coming into a technical thread to be a naysayer why don't you waste your own time trying to find me a new, on the lot RCSB that has all these options for less than $30k. Then you can come in here and complain about something that has absolutely NOTHING to do with you or your truck.

Drive shafts are not a uniform length. Some people have had to cut and rebalance them and others haven't. My guess is they use different suppliers to source them.

Have had the vibration issue with my truck. Figured it was from lowering it and having some pinion angle issues. Obviously out of warranty due to the modifications to my truck but that wouldn't stop me from finding the issue myself. Verified the pinion angle was good multiple times so I went and had the tires balanced again, they were out of balance. That fixed some of the issues, but I was still having some problems around the 68-73mph range. RPM wasn't a factor, so I knew it was from the carrier out. Tried replacing the rear rotors in case one of them had a bad casting and was causing some of the issues. No luck. Finally think it has been fixed. I upgraded my rear gears to 4.56 gears and afterwards it seems that the vibration is gone now short of the road vibration I get from imperfections in the highway combined with the stiffer suspension. That vibration changes with road surface fluctuation. The other was more of a constant vibration at certain speeds. Once again, speeds, not vibrations. Have put a few hundred smooth miles on the truck now and it is night and day better. And this is where it gets interesting. I wish I would have taken some measurements of the factory backlash as it seems like it was off but it was late when I got to that point and I didn't think of taking a factory measurement. And on top of it I know for a fact there was NO preload on the carrier, which makes me a bit suspicious as to why that would be. Literally, the carrier almost fell out once the bearing caps were taken off. I know the carrier doesn't need to be tight but it was floating in the case, scary thought. I am not saying that new gears will solve your problem but it probably wouldn't hurt to have the dealer check your backlash and carrier preload while they are trying to hunt down this problem. As usual, your mileage may vary.

To get these options you would have to buy an LT which is $6,000 over the price of a WT. So at that math I am still $4,000 ahead. At this point I have actually added everything that the LT trim would add for less than half the price of the package upgrade. Added pictures of the wiring diagrams and harnesses to the original post.

Yeah, that seems very cheap. I think I found mine for around $110.

Part number for heated wheel clock spring is 23193462, it is listed as discontinued but you can find it on sites like ebay. For the heated wheel all it is getting power and ground, I would have to double check but the power might already be in the harness on the stalk side. My wheel doesn't have the button above the heater, that is for the auto cruise distance control if I remember right, I had it on my '14 LTZ and know it has to do with that or the anti-collision warning stuff. The regular clock spring will pass on the steering wheel controls for those wanting to do the upgrade to steering wheel controls. You only need the new clock spring for the heated steering wheel.

Do not follow these instructions. There is no reason to cut on your steering wheel. You can do it by using these directions.

Yeah, I have the clock spring with the heater wires. You will need it. You will see the connector on the wheel for the heater. If you have any issues once you get the clock spring let me know and I will dig it back up and see what all I had to do. It has been awhile. Removing the airbag is easy enough, click here for my other post where I have the photo showing the wire to pry on to pop the bag loose. Other than that it is just a couple of plugs and a big nut. For the clock spring there is a retainer ring is all, pretty straight forward. I'll post in depth pics of the wiring diagrams and such next week. Keep an eye out.

Well after some work and some digging and some wiring I have finally completed the retrofit of my RCSB Blackout (Which was the WT trim with the small radio) to have the IO5 stereo, Color DIC Gauge Cluster and Heated Steering wheel with all the controls working, both the DIC and the stereo controls work. I would guess that total I have about $2000 tied up in all of this so it can get costly and it isn't for the feint of heart, you will be cutting into factory wires. This will only work if you have the IO4 option code, if you have the IO3 stereo you are probably out of luck. Gauge cluster programming was provided by Chris over at WAMS, I highly suggest going to Chris for all your custom module programming needs. He is a busy guy so if you have questions on this swap you will want to post them here as Chris won't be able to help you out with anything other than providing the custom programming for the cluster. You can request prices from his site at: http://www.whiteautoandmedia.com/ All of the information needed to do this retrofit can been dug up from the upfitters electrical manual available at: https://www.gmupfitter.com/pages/body-builder-manuals If you plan on attempting this familiarize yourself with the information I post and this manual, it will save you some head aches. Basically all you are doing is tying back the steering wheel controls to the gauge cluster on the LIN Bus (one wire, that doesn't exist if you don't have controls) and then adding the gauge cluster to the MOST bus via the stereo. This is easily done at the radio module behind the HMI (The top box, but you know this if you have upgraded to IO5 or IO6) just with the grey 8 pin connector which actually is where it shows the gauge cluster being in relation between the amplifier and the radio. You will want to put the gauge cluster in series on the most bus on wires 3 and 4 from the far right connector on the radio module. So basically you will cut these wires and where they were going in to the radio now they will go into the gauge cluster on pins 1 and 2 and the return to the radio from pins 17 and 18 on the gauge cluster, all this can be found in the upfitter manaul. Then you will want to grab the MOST enable signal from wire 7 on the connector and bring it back to the gauge cluster also, you can tap off of it. If you have any questions feel free to post them here and I will try to stop in every so often and answer. PM's will go unanswered as I don't want to type the same info out 20 times so just post it here so we can have one post covering this. I will also try and post some diagrams and more pictures next week along with a link to the pins that plug in to the blank spots on the connector of the gauge cluster to add the above circuits. But yes, this can be done. Thanks, Kyle

Shock extenders try to keep the shock in the ideal dampening range but they can also effect the geometry of the suspension and so you are possibly going to wear the stock shock out faster just for a different reason. With stock shocks and no extenders you are actuating the shock outside the ideal range it was designed to work in. Stock shocks with shock extenders helps to get it back in the ideal range but applies more lateral force to the shock because the additional angle. For what the rear shocks cost on these it is probably a good idea to go ahead and just replace them with drop shocks but make sure and read around as there are some out there that will make the ride worse. I think the common agreed upon belief around here is that the Belltech drop shocks are the best ones for our trucks.

You might still have issues with the McGaughy's bump stops on some harder bumps, if you do you can look into the energy suspension ones, they are even shorter but still provide plenty of bump stop.

Run the one inch shackle in the rear or bring the front up a half inch.

Those will take you back down to 7" with the new brackets or would take you up to 6" with the factory bracket. Just run the lowering brackets in the high mount location and you'll get 6", mine are in the 5" location. I had it listed wrong, its: 7" with stock shackles and stock backets 7" with aftermarket bracket and 1" lift shackle (it acts as a lowering shackle on the after market bracket) 6" with 1" lift shackle and stock brackets 6" with stock shackle aftermarket bracket mounted in highest location 5" with stock shackle and aftermarket bracket mounted in the lowest location I must of been thinking of the kit for my Tahoe.

They installed the bracket upside down, that's why, lol. The shackle and spring goes from being above your stock bracket to below your aftermarket bracket, I'll go snap a pic of mine you can show them.

A couple pages back I listed why I used these parts, and this is my exact setup, but my list is: McGaughy's front spindles and drop struts DJM flip kit Belltech street performance shocks in the rear You'll need a one inch shackle to go 6", if you want to try let me know, I've got a brand new pair still in the unopened shipping box that I'll sell at a discount. I would give it a shot before chopping the factory bracket off if you think you want a 6" drop. Just get a simple flip kit (7" static drop) and run the 1" shackle and you'll have a 6", if it's too low you can order the new brackets to do the 4/5 drop, which will let you go 6" also with the 1" shackle. You could probably pull off a 4/6 with the DJM flip kit and bump-stops, but I'm guessing it'll be very close, so you won't have much suspension travel. You won't be able to go 6" without a notch with the McGaughy's flip kit, you'll have less than an inch of suspension travel. Let me know if you have any other questions.

That's how mine looked with a 4/7, way to low to not do a mini-c in the rear.

As far as I know here are the configurations for drops with a flip: 7" with stock shackles and stock backets 6" with 1" lift shackle and stock brackets (Most kits don't have this shackle) 5" with stock shackle and aftermarket bracket mounted in the highest location 4" with stock shackle and aftermarket bracket mounted in the lowest location RT can probably correct me if I am wrong, but I don't think you can do 6" without a new shackle.

70-75lbs then 130 degrees. New ones don't hurt either.

Snapped at 20 pounds over recommended torque...

Yeah, I will be adding helpers in the near future most likely. I don't tow that often, but it will happen one of these days as I have a '62 Vette that requires a trailer and I am getting rid of the Tahoe.

You got rid of your power slider?

No problem, and you're probably right, I just remember glossing over that issue and didn't pay attention. Unfortunately they don't offer a RC Denali, lol!

Check the last few pages of the pinned topic for lowering here in the modifications forum. There is also some info in that topic that you will want to read for lowering a Denali so you don't have issues with ride control. A lot of info the sift through but you will be better off and make more informed decisions if you do. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/155864-2014-lowering-drop-kits/page-41

No rubbing with the wheels turned? Man, I thought my tires were the stock 31", maybe I should check again. Can't wait to see a staggered setup on an RC, should look sick. You going to stagger wheel sizes too? My Vette looked good with a 19/20.