Darth_Vader

Don't have anything yet as this is a work in progress. The heated seats would be easy to do with switches and probably resistors to change levels as the factory ones us Pulse Width Modulation to create the different temperature levels. That is the part I'm trying to find a work around for along with utilizing the factory switches (with custom wiring) to control it all. Cooling should operate much on the same theory. Without getting in to the deep technical jargon about how all this operates on a factory install, there are ways to replicate and what I'll be trying to figure out is if it is easier to mimic the BCM and use the stock heated seats controller or to remove both of them and create a completely new controller.

RK sport maxes good products. I remember seeing a Mallet Solstice at Sema one year that had a full kit from them plus a custom hard top they made and it looked amazing. There is a good looking cowl hood out there too that isn't fiberglass, can't remember who makes it.

Did you leave the resonator?

In the WT the plug isn't even there. Ran a fuse tap and tied into a ground to get mine to work.

Awesome info Tbarn! I assumed it was using PWM for temp control, and I can replicate that easily enough if need be. The real question will be the signal being sent over the LIN network from the switches. Being that they are just switches I'm guessing they are using resistive signal like the cruise control system does. It's also reassuring knowing that the LIN system can only handle one command at a time so it should be easily decipherable. If you don't mind me asking, where did you find this summary? This confirms some of my assumptions I was explaining to a fellow programmer yesterday when talking about this project.

Yeah, I'll be analyzing the signals being related to and from the BCM and then basically replacing it with a small cheap PLC. Based on the drawings there are a couple of ways it could be interpreting the signal or even what the signal itself is but I have enough test equipment sitting around that I should be able to design a sub $100 solution.

I was wondering about that, but seemed like a big difference for only a couple degrees off center. I've always wondered if it caused the shocks to behave differently, suspension man I am not.

Not a fan either. Too stiff on the rear.

I can promise they are not the same length on the ground, when I measured them last I pulled my truck up on my 4-post, ran it up and measured them without ever jacking a part of the truck up. The passenger side is around 1" longer.

Agreed, the McG fronts ride great, rears are terrible. The Belltechs are brutal on a RCSB on the rear too. Prime example of a shock designed for a heavier truck not adapting well. Not to mention the passenger side is longer than the driver side and yet it's the same part number.

I have a power seat in my LT guess I could compare it to my WT too, lol! I found a heater control module, should have some findings, good or bad, in a week or two. Actually excited to look into this as I was talking to another programmer today about how this is probably handled through the BCM.

Mine said there could be an issue with 17's but nothing about you'd be in a situation with your spare, lol.

Doubt it, guessing the frames are radically different. Just ordered the dash switches for the heaters, trying to find a control module to test.

It's hit or miss on the harness, I haven't found anything that shows when you might or might not have the extra harnesses. Even if you have them they won't work without BCM programming. The question is how the BCM works with the seat heater module and if you can replicate the signals directly from the switches. I have some ideas brewing but need to experiment. Potentially you could provide a cheap solution that bypasses theodules but still gives you full control.

I'll dig into the switch operation tomorrow more. It might be possible to use the switches with the seat heater control module without the BCM. But I don't have either to test, I do know the switches are on the low speed network so I'm guessing they don't work like normal dry contact switches but now you've got me intrigued. May have to order a set to play with. I'll update you if I figure anything out.

Should be good to just grab it from the driver seat since it isn't the memory seat setup. Might just have to do some tapping and splicing. Make sure and check the upfitter guide for the truck (Use the 15 model, it is more in depth than the 14 and I am guessing the stuff for the seats are the same). Just at a glance I can see that the seat heaters are provided power then the BCM is controlled by the switches over the serial link which then provides ground switching legs for the seat heaters via the seat heater control module. The seat controls themselves are not ran through the BCM on this setup unless you have option code A45 (Page 167), the passenger is even more simple of a wiring job (Page 169), but I wouldn't worry about tying it back to the stock location, I would just run it over to the terminals located on page 167. Page 888 will show you the seat heater circuits, just work without the module, you'll see you are supplying power on the top of the diagram and ground on the bottom. Just tie those to a switch and you should have heated seats, just going to always be on high as I am guessing the seat heater control module regulates voltage to get the lower settings, unfortunately it is controlled by the BCM so would require custom programming to get it operational in your truck. https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/578/Sierra_Silverado_Electrical_Body_Builders_Manual_Service_Manual_2015_en_US.pdf

Should be plug and play if you have the electric seats, at least for the driver. Did the WT2 come with the electric passenger? You can wire power to them and get everything to work, including the heaters, just not using the stock equipment as all of that is normally powered/controlled through the BCM. I am working on doing the same thing on a WT with manual seats and utilizing the stock push buttons for control but will be doing it all with custom wiring. Sounds like you got a hell of a deal on them!

Damn, CJ, hate to hear that! Look at it this way, I have spent over $2000 on parts to find out that it was bad wheels, talk about frustration! Now I have to buy new wheels! I was on autotrader Monday myself, but I am too stubborn to give up.

I didn't check my pinion preload when I did my gears but I can confirm there was no carrier preload, but actually slack that needed more shimming.

Got any pics of that setup?

Just a heads up to anyone running the McG front spindles, your spare won't fit without trimming the bolt on the bottom of the spindles. Found that out last night.

Yeah, I've replaced mine with an aftermarket aluminium unit. Put 150 miles on the truck today with the spare in place of the offender, amazing to finally have the vibration gone.

Axles didn't help me. Found a bad wheel though. Which is odd since these were mounted on my Tahoe before I put them on my truck and I never noticed any vibration. Had the wheels balanced multiple times, no issues with a static balance had them balanced twice in the last 6 months without issues. A dynamic balance might solve the problem. Most likely will just replace them. Good luck everyone!

Maybe half an inch, but definitely not 1"

I suspect I'll find only one is bad. But I'll post all the run-out tests as soon as I have them. I'll have 600 miles on the new axles by Wednesday so that should give me plenty of time to see if it worked.