Darth_Vader

I need to get back on this but winter is here and it's made me lazy.

In the bed, centered over the rear axle? Perfect spot. Even weight distribution and added weight where you need it most for traction.

Sounds good Jared, thanks for doing this! Is the water pump pulley press fit or something? Don't see the standard 4 bolts that they used to use on the GM pumps.

Theoretically if you were to use the PAC unit and wire everything else up like I have laid out in the first few posts then the steering wheel controls should work with the aftermarket radio just like they would if you had the color DIC from the factory. But like everything else it is a gamble until someone tries it out. I'd be more than willing to help where I could, but it should be as simple as adding it to the stock system. Make the MOST bus splices in the same spot and go from there.

Jared, I will probably be interested since I haven't been able to find a conversion kit. Feel free to PM me the details. Might have a friend interested in one too.

Well, some of you may know that I had the unfortunate incident of tossing a "4 aluminum race prop shaft through my factory fuel tank at over 100 mph a few months back. Well I have been in the process of moving across the country so I haven't posted lately but I thought I would share a picture of my Aeromotive 20 gallon fuel cell installed. This is a the Stealth 340 unit which works with the factory fuel control module. Still utilizes the factory hard lines and evap system. The setup is providing enough fuel to max out the stock HPFP at this point.

So you are wanting to do the Color DIC with the Steering wheel controls, but you aren't worried about having the radio controls? In theory it should work given that the one wire you add from the steering wheel to the gauge cluster is what passes on the steering wheel controls to the gauges cluster. The gauge cluster then would pass on your commands to the absent stereo. You wouldn't need to tie the gauge cluster into the MOST bus would be my guess. But the color one may not power up correctly if you don't.

Love the color, save some cash and color match it, dramatically changes the look.

This can be done with a straw. A plastic straw from your local convenience store.

Sure thing, if you have any issues just post on here or IM me and I will try to help you out but I think all of it is covered in one form or another on this topic.

Page two I posted links for the pins and crimpers on amazon.

You have to buy the pins, and it would be way easier to buy them and a crimper than to try and cannibalize an existing harness. I would suggest buying a crimper for the size pins involved but you could probably get away with manually crimping them with a pair of pliers or something, I used to do things like that back in the day but you are better off buying a crimper.

You are not kidding, it doesn't get more south than that! I used to spend time around Hebbronville

Sexy! Where in Texas are you?

Lets see the engine bay!

Oddly it is one of the things I miss most from my LTZ.

Haha, it's not that bad, I can pull them in about 20 minutes.

Easy, pull the brakes, drop the diff cover and then remove the retaining bolt in the carrier, you then drop the center pin from the carrier (big metal round thing), and either have someone push in on an axle or ratchet strap it down from the frame so you can use a magnet to pull the C-clips that retain the axles then they just slide out.

Good, I just got it done this weekend, along with a bunch of other crap. Did the rear brake conversion to the small brakes due to having to run the spacer on the Race Star's which is fine since I can now run a 15" rear. Swapped in the manifold and ported LT1 throttle body along with installed a WB for tuning, and the icing on the cake was I got the intercooler and associated piping installed, brackets, MAP sensor and everything else I need to throw a blower on, just didn't realize the blower I had in storage was a reverse rotation (Should of known since it was for my C6) so once I have a new blower in it will be supercharged. In the meantime I got everything tuned in NA for the new MAF tube size, MAP sensor, manifold and TB so it should be straight forward once I do toss the blower in.

Nice work! Good to see another person joining the crew of people willing to build harnesses to retrofit these trucks.

Haha, it probably has more to do with the 4.56 gears with a positrac! I'm just being an idiot to be an idiot. I've had all size of GM motors in my cars and I'll be honest, the new crops of V6's are very impressive.

That's not a truck dash. That cluster visor pictured won't fit.

First post. You just don't need the new clock spring. All the rest applies. I think there is a link to the terminals on page two of this topic.

Haha, I have no doubt that my truck would walk a 6.2l even with most bolt-ons up until about 100. After that I just don't have the gears. You have to take into account a 5.3 in a RCSB has a weight to horsepower ratio of 12.3 to 1 where as a Crew Cab with a 6.2 comes in at 12.6 to 1, so it's already an even match. Add on top of that the fact my truck has few hundred pounds less unsprung weight not to mention all the other drivetrain mods, using a conservative 7 to 1 ratio on the unsprung vs sprung weight would actually being my weight to HP ratio down to something closer to 10.7 to 1 with bone stock pump gas HP ratings. So unless having a L86 allows you to defy physics... Rawr!

Rawr, rawr, rawr, 5.3, rawr! I've got a Airaid MIT tube, only mod on my engine, looking for a 6.2 with the same to race...