Darth_Vader

Chris is a great guy to work with and the custom BCM programming may be the best way to do this easily, so I highly recommend anyone looking to do this reach out to him. For anyone wondering, not selling any harnesses, all the information to do this is included in this thread including the controller to get the switches to work. Glad to see some have had success, it was a fun project and interesting to dive into the LIN bus. I am just too busy with YouTube and breaking my Silverado every time I take it to the track to spend a lot of time on projects like this anymore.

If the TCM isn't locked and the part number for the TCM is the same for both you can write the config from the Corvette to it, but it probably wouldn't be as a good an actual tune give how Torque is utilized to control transmission parameters.

Steering wheel won't light up until the connection to the cluster is made.

Nolan, Sorry I haven't responded to your last message, been tied up. If you are wanting to use the stock seats without having to use the factory modules you can use a device that will allow PWM output, much like we used in the heated seat setup in this thread, except you probably don't need a device like the Canny 7 that talks LIN bus if you are not worried about using the stock switches. The stock seat elements are still based on variable voltage as far as I know, maybe someone can chime in that knows more, but that means if you use a MOSFET power supply like we use on the heated seat retrofit as it allows you to use PWM to vary the voltage. For those of you still wanting to retrofit the factory seats here is the latest link to the Canny 7: Canny Logic 7 on eBay Thanks, Kyle

Jeff, So this is kind of a double edged sword. Yes, this will let you do the relearn. But I can't get it to work, and there is a specific reason why and I'm not sure exactly why that is but the long and short of it is that it isn't pulling in TCM specific parameters which is what it needs to allow the reset steps to be executed. I've tried six different ways to get it to work with no luck. So this is a your mileage may vary kind of situation. But I would probably look for another solution because the VCX unit can be a pain to work with sometimes. Kyle

Thanks Sid, I will verify and let everyone know.

Haha, I didn't have much hope for it, but it was a short and easy test, and fairly cheap.

I installed the new rear body mounts that GM claims are designed to eliminate the vibration frequency of the Chevy Shake in TSB PI1354H Check out the results: YouTube Video of Body Mounts to fix the Chevy Shake?!

Okay guys, sorry for the late responses and thanks to everyone messaging me on here and on YouTube. If you could post your questions here so that when I answer the everyone has access to them that would be beneficial for all and now that I have had my last surgery I will try and be on the forums more often. Also don't forget to subscribe to my YouTube channel if you haven't already as I have some more projects in the works that I will be sharing in the coming weeks. Goat Rope Garage YouTube Page Here is the logic for the Canny 7, this was created using the latest firmware, you will need to update to that version before loading this or the LIN communication will not work as the GM system uses a non-standard speed that I had the Canny people add to the firmware so we could use this device with GM systems. That being said the original firmware that might be on the device may not support this but I have verified that it is available in the latest version. SeatHeaterFinalPublicVer2.cfd Thanks and I look forward to any questions and by all means please report back like Dave! Glad to see it is working out good for you! Kyle

Yeah, I wouldn't trust that app to diagnose the shake on these trucks. I have an EVA that shows my shake as being a first order tire vibration. Problem with that is the same vibration exists and I've ran three different sets of wheels/tires, two sets of axles and replaced a 4 rotors on a vehicle with less than 20k miles put on it in over three years. Would cost less to buy a used EVA or pay the dealer to run the pico to get you the vibration frequency and then try and track it down from there. But there are still no guarantees.

Sean, You are really going to the extreme! Ditch the BCM, not worth the hassle as there is a lot of communication going on that will keep the thing from even wanting to start to work. You are headed in the right direction, the only issue you are going to have is the rear heated seat switches are going to have different addresses, the commands are going to be the same most likely but you will have to figure out the addresses. You will need probably need two Canny's as it is now as I haven't had time to dig in further to try and figure out a way of getting all the switches on the same LIN channel without having them respond. Not saying it can't be done I just haven't spent a lot of time trying to do it. Your best bet is to find someone who has the rear heated switches that is nice enough to let you put a LIN sniffer on the switches to try and capture data to see what the addresses are, that is how I got the original addresses for the front ones. Good luck! Kyle

Have had some people who want to try themselves and attack this but need some extra info, so here you go! This is the addresses, commands and responses for the factory heated seat switches (works with the seat cooler switches too) on the LIN bus. Poll Command Passenger at 35ms 20 30 F5 61 FF Wake Command 61 Status Poll (Leave this blank, will return switch status that corresponds below) Poll Command Driver 80 30 F5 61 FF Wake Command C1 Status Poll Driver seat frame ID is C1 Heated Back Off: C1 00 00 00 00 Low: C1 00 09 00 00 Medium: C1 00 0A 00 00 High: C1 00 0B 00 00 Full Heat Off: C1 00 00 00 00 Low: C1 00 05 00 00 Medium: C1 00 06 00 00 High: C1 00 07 00 00 AC Off: C1 00 00 00 00 Low: C1 00 0D 00 00 Medium: C1 00 0E 00 00 High: C1 00 0F 00 00 Passenger seat frame ID is 61 Heated Back Off: 61 00 00 00 00 Low: 61 00 09 00 00 Medium: 61 00 0A 00 00 High: 61 00 0B 00 00 Full Heat Off: 61 00 00 00 00 Low: 61 00 05 00 00 Medium: 61 00 06 00 00 High: 61 00 07 00 00 AC Off: 61 00 00 00 00 Low: 61 00 0D 00 00 Medium: 61 00 0E 00 00 High: 61 00 0F 00 00 Good luck! Kyle

Thanks, Phil! Been a busy year, but I'm hoping to get back into documenting some things, trying some new stuff out, seeing what kind of fun we can have! Going under the knife tomorrow, for the second time, but I'll actually be in the road to recovery after this surgery! -Kyle

You have to find them in the upfitter electrical wiring manual which is free online, the J should correspond to the X fittings, they will just be listed as X in the manual. If you give me some time I can try and find the specific wiring diagrams related to the connectors. Not sure if this link will work, but this is it: https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/578/Sierra_Silverado_Electrical_Body_Builders_Manual_Service_Manual_2015_en_US.pdf

Really won't work unless you do the whole thing. You have to have the digital controls and the control module. If you have those two you can manually adjust everything and not run it in auto mode. The digital controls can be hooked up in place of the manual with the manual controller but I don't think the blower speed adjustment will work, if I remember correctly it just blows full speed. But if you're going far enough to get the control module you might as well as the sensors, just need the dash sensor and two vent sensors, pretty cheap and then Auto will work for the driver side controls at least.

I'm working on a way of hosting the current version of the program I am running, which is what is outlined here which are the factory heat switches to function with the Canny unit. Not sure if there other will work with the heat only switches as I used the heat/cool, but to be honest I doubt the addressing would be different. None the less, I'm going in for ankle surgery tomorrow but once I get a bit healed up I'll have the program and will try to assist as I know Dave and a couple others might be trying this retro fit. Sorry I have been as active in here in the last few months, focus has shifted to getting the truck ready to race and most of my time had been spent getting the 4-link dialed in. Oh, and passing Pennsylvania emissions with more than 700hp. Thanks for everyone's interest and stick around for more. Kyle

Ran the truck last weekend with the EVA again, still a 14hz frequency vibration around 70 which indicates a road speed (Tire speed) vibration. Going to tear into the front and check run out on parts up there, see if anything jumps out as I have mostly ignored the front end short of new rotors.

Whole steering rack had to be replaced, Ford wouldn't warranty it.

Because I've got a '17 F-150 that had to have $3000 thrown at it because it hit a pot hole and it's not covered under warranty because the aluminum foil shit parts they put on it are guaranteed not to fail so long as you don't drive the piece of shit. Besides, all of mine are upgrades, the truck makes more power than it can use on the road so a lot of this was going to have to be done anyways, I knew the 4 link wasn't going to fix it, I did it because I need the hook out of the hole. Oh, and I actually like the interior and exterior styling on these, which I can't say about any other truck on the road.

An update, for all of you chasing this problem, think it's safe to say nobody has spent more time/money on trying to fix this. Attempts to fix: Aftermarket drive shaft Yukon axels Yukon lsd New ring and pinions (3 sets) 4 different shocks (stock, belltech, mcgaughys, qa1 adjustables) 3 sets of wheels and tires (two factory, one forged aftermarket) Every set were balanced at least three times Leaf spring clamps Brake rotors on all four corners, twice in the rear Full conversion to 4 link rear suspension Solution: none of this worked Problem still exists in the 65-70 range, I haven't put the EVA back on it since I did the four link but before the frequency on the vibration indicated that the vibration was a wheel speed vibration so potential culprits had to be wheels, tires, axles, carrier, spindles, brakes, anything that rotates at wheel speed. For that reason I didn't expect the four link to resolve the issue, other than maybe the added crossmember might alleviate any frame beaming, which isn't actually an issue based on the vibration frequency. Since the rear conversion I'm now going to spend some more time focusing on the front, make sure nothing is out of round up there. Still convinced there is a silver bullet that will put this to rest, dammed if I won't find it. Good luck everyone!

Jared, Was that everything you need short of the blower pulley? I need to get something going as I've got pretty bad belt slip.

I haven't seen any diagrams for the IOB setup, but if there was never a steering wheel controls option released in tandem with that radio it's a safe bet it won't work. It seems like in the past that any radio they worked with came with the controls. The IO3 never had a control option.

Mike, If I remember right the lights on the steering wheel are controlled as part of the controls circuit. Did you have radio controls on your old wheel? I want to say that the lights didn't work until I did the cluster swap and controls wiring but I've slept too many times since then.

You'll need the color gauge cluster, the monochrome one doesn't have the proper communication ability. And as GTPrix had stated, and it can't be said enough, the cluster had to be custom programmed for your vehicle!

Spend your money on a disk gauge and check for run out first, new axles may have made it better but it did not fix it by any means. I'm not convinced that the issues don't lie in the semi-float axle design. I have an EVA and I know my vibration is a speed related rotational issue so in my case it has to be from the carrier out. Things I've tried so far: 3 sets of wheels and tires (including forged) Replaced all brake rotors Replaced rear axles Replaced rear ring and pinion Replaced rear carrier And that's only the crap that I've done that rotates at the frequency of the problem. My next step may be a C-clip delete, who knows.