davidncurtis

Does anyone know the part number for the OEM bed light harness. The harness from my 2014 doesn’t work on my 2018 so I need to figure out which harness to get. thanks for the help.

Looking for a reasonably priced Silverado Taillight for the Driverside of an LTZ. There aren't many for sale other than the GM parts stores and they are a bit over priced. My current tail light has a hairline crack and allows condensation in to the lens. GM wont cover under warranty and from the dealership they want $700.... Feel free to shoot me a PM. Thanks!

look into the 305/55R20. They will give you a bit of wider tire and BFG tends to me be skinnier than other brands BFG are the best all terrain tire on the market IMO that will see 55k to 60k mile usage out of them.

That would be awesome. Thanks for the help. I found the full LED Cargo lights for sale but I only need the harness.

I completed this install on my 2014 Silverado and recently, I upgraded to a 2018 model and the harness is a different size. Its an 8 pin plug, but it is smaller in size than the plug for the 2014s. Does anyone have the wiring harness part# for 2018 models? Thanks in advance for the help.

I agree 100%, I was hoping other have had this issue. Apparently it cost $1800 per housing yet I can get OEM set for $1000. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you know where the bulletin was that came out on this? I asked this originally because I can't imagine I'm the only one with this issue. I would love to get this fixed. Thanks in advance. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here are the pictures of a few. Only on the 2014 models. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Guys, I have a 2014 Silverado High Country with the projectors and the lenses are starting to crack. On my personal truck, it is not that bad but is getting worse, but of my 15 work trucks that I have in our fleet, I have 6 other 2014 Silverado WT with the standard headlights and the lenses that are cracked even worse. See the pictures below. I have taken this to my dealer and asked them to handle this as its starting to look really bad on some. They have been in contact with GM warranty claims and they aren't offering to do much. The Service manager spoke directly with a GM engineer and this engineer is blaming the cracking on soap from washing the vehicles. He is claiming that when washing a truck, if soap is on the lens and the lights are turned on, over time, the lenses will crack. On my personal truck, I'm very anal OCD when I clean my Truck each week not to mention the times in between when I'm using spray wax. This just doesn't make much sense to me or that GM would put a product out there that cant handle the elements, i.e. car washing soap. The only thing GM offered was $1000 towards a new Truck, remember we are talking about 7 trucks total. Currently, between work and personal trucks, we have 20 GM vehicles (Trucks, SUV's and a Corvette) and that doesn't take into account the multiple of vehicles we have owned in the past and the number of people we send to the dealer to buy cars from. All of my vehicles have the a 100K mile extended warranty. Has anyone else had this problem or experiencing this same issue? Anyone on here have any contact with GM warranty that could possibly help me out? Thanks in advance.

I did not pay any more for air or nitrogen. It was an option from my dealer and at no additional change. Since Atmospheric air is only 78% Nitrogen, 21% oxygen, the rest other gases, the 21% oxygen is what is fluctuating during the temperature changes. If you can get rid of the other 22% gases and put pure nitrogen in the tires, you will have a higher boiling and freezing point than Atmospheric Air. Dues to this, the tire psi will only change 1 psi during normal days. I keep my tires at 40 psi religiously and usually during normal highway driving in South Louisiana, they will go to 41 maybe 42 psi. Nitrogen doesn't expand and contract as much as air with temperature. This is one of the major problems with air because when is cold or hot, for every 12 degrees change in temperature, the psi will increase or decrease respectively (i.e. deflate gate!!). I have seen so much better wear with nitrogen vs air on my current tires compared to my last set.

I have been running 40 psi but I'm using Nitrogen. It does not fluctuate as much as air does so the tires wear so much better. This set I have now has 45K on them and the sides looks brand new while remaining perfectly flat.

Can some let me know which switch yall are using that will fit in the cigarette lighter and can be hidden? I'm in the process of gathering all the materials for my build and I'm looking for a hidden switch. I have seen them in the cigarette lighter spots just cant seem to find them. Thanks for the Help.

So I have 45K on my tires and have a few thousand more miles before I need to get a new set but I have heard the new KO2s don't come with the white walls on the 325/60R20 sizes. Is this true? Part of the reasons get BFGs is for the whitewall as they are the only tires that makes them look awesome. This will be a huge let down if that's the case. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well I have now tried the following: 1. Swapped ignitors 2. Swapped Ballast 3. Swapped relays 4. Swapped bulbs with stock stock to see if it's a problem with the truck. I still am having an issue with my driver side bulb not coming one all the time. TRS customer support is crap. Everytime I call TRS they do is say swap something else. They have no solution to anything. I'm thinking it has to be the capacitor or the bulb. I don't think it's the bulb because after flickering the on/off switch a few times it comes on. Anyone else still having this issue? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My driver side makes a very loud noise when it doesn't work then it cuts off. When the light works it's very quite. I'm planning on calling TRS today but they won't replace anything only make we switch things. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk