lonestardiver

Z71 is a suspension package and does not mean you have 4 wheel drive. You can have a 4 wheel drive truck without the Z71 decal, like the Z66. My old 05 Duramax 2500 crew cab 4x4 had a decal that said 4x4, but it was not the Z71 suspension package.

I got my data plan straight through AT&T...$20/month. This way when we have grandkids in the vehicle they can stream movies on trips. Don’t have an onstar plan, don’t use the app. The app was a novelty in my opinion while for some it may have some actual use. It wasn’t worth the money to me. Like everyone else these days going to a subscription model and nickel and diming you...by the time you add up all your monthly subscription fees and the annual cost, is it worth it? Somethings yes, many things no.

Sirens and horns mounted on/above the cab are loud inside the cab...

Red Barchetta - RUSH

If a 4wd you can put the transfer case in neutral. For a RWD pickup either remove the driveshaft or put it on a flatbed trailer. If a FWD, you can use a tow dolly. The owners Manuel for each vehicle should have the proper info and is the best place to look. Flat towing or dolly towing a RWD vehicle with an automatic transmission in neutral does not good things to the transmission since your pump is not running to provide proper lubrication to the rotating parts. That is likely what happened in the case of the truck in the original post. Manual transmissions are different in how lubrication occurs. Again the owners manual as a reference.

Not sure if the Raptor is available in 4wd...but being a high performance truck and brand new I am sure the insurance company may find a way to deny the claim being it was likely being towed in a manner inconsistent with the manufacturers recommendations.

Dillon is your friend.

Check for a bent rim.

One of the key aspects of a good cerakote application is surface prep. I know for metal surfaces they are cleaned, degreased and then bead blasted. The item is then baked. I am not sure how it works on plastics....

Run 6 or 8 gauge wire to the cab to a distribution block. That way you have additional power capabilities if needed. Be sure and fuse it adjacent to the battery. Somewhere I saw a wiring diagram for adding an aux battery with an isolator. One of the key things with the electrical systems these days is the current sensor on the ground cable of the primary battery used to tell the charging system how much extra power to produce.

Good to hear you are okay and the truck is drivable. I know my rear bumper on my ‘18 LT ran about $1700 parts, paint, and labor at the dealer. In my case the other guys insurance paid it. Your looks like it is going to leave a mark in your checking account. It would be cheaper out of pocket to have it done via insurance unless you can source good parts from a junkyard and do it yourself. If you have proof of another idiot forcing you into the guardrail, you may be able to claim uninsured/underinsured motorist and get out cheaper that way.... I think you are looking at $6k+.

Tap into a circuit that is on when the ignition is on or the engine is running. Use that to trigger a relay and run your own circuit to the battery with its own dedicated fuse near the battery. This prevents overloading your vehicle systems/wiring and keeps your accessories on their on dedicated circuit.

I believe so. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Your heater/AC system.

I believe you must have the environmental system set to “auto” for this to work.