15silver

I think the steering geometry from what I've been reading is better with the shock than the spacer. The better shocks will make it ride different, but not softer. Better for off road with better damping to reduce motion from uneven surface. I've had shock upgrades do pretty much nothing, to making a world of difference on past vehicles. I'd pull the spacer if you use the shock for leveling, or do a proper lift kit if you want 4-6 (or more) inches. I have RC2" and stock shocks/tires. Nice ride. Added air springs to re-level with load for trailering, and leave about 10psi in em. I find it firmed the ride a bit, but in a good way. Less bouncy I guess. Seems to be less lean in corners, but the ride is still smooth.

the 33" LT tires are adding to the roughness you are experiencing. KO-2's are LT tires and I believe are an 8ply C load range or 10 ply E load range depending on size. Much firmer than the P metric tires that came on the 1500.

click image for full size 2" level kit, stock tires, 17" rims

dual zone is a different airbox The A/C, fan, diverter assembly is a different component, and it's a large assembly. The whole IP (dash unit) would need to be removed, and a different "air box" assembly installed. Supported wiring, solenoids .... Really not a home project unless you're a masochist. Nice to have a bit more bling though.

Stuffing a diode into a connector isn't professional workmanship. All I'd need to see myself to think whoever did that kind of install was clueless. Opens up the suggestion maybe he poked it into a different hole by mistake and maybe even another until he got it to work. Not saying that's what happened, but seriously - you'd expect a tech to see that kind of mod and think .. 'cool !' ? Other ways to do what you want - eg disconnect the fogs and run through a relay triggered by low beam lights. Power supplied by a fused connection to battery. Run everything in wire loom and use proper connectors and wiring practices. If you don't have the experience to do it right, then dont be surprised when the dealer cries foul.

no I didn't .... great tip. Haven't had the stall again, so am encouraged to keep it in. Will try the battery trick to see if it runs any different.

Just did the AirRaid tube with stock filter performance- cant say there's any difference not disappointed, as I was mainly looking for dress-up options under the hood. negative - can't say this is a direct cause/effect, but I generally drive just brushing the pedal. of course I wanted to see if i felt any difference, so was more liberal with the throttle. while cold, I had a flat spot right (pause) on the start of pushing the pedal down. soon as I got around the block - even mildest warm-up, didn't get that again. never had that before, but then again was driving differently/more aggressively. as long as that was a one off, I'll keep it in, otherwise will revert to stock. sound - maybe just a bit deeper induction noise. Not objectionable at all like an open cone filter. So it passes the sound test. Quiet when cruising, and a bit deeper on heavy accel.

Eibach's site info for the shocks - 2" Summits photo looks like a pic of the rear shock - this is the front shock specs from Eibach's site: # E60-23-006-03-10 Front: +0-2" rha Footnotes: Ride Height Adjustable Ring Slots To Allow For A Lift Of 0-2"

Poor fuel economy? With the larger tires, the speedo/odo counts revs, not distance traveled. Vehicle goes faster/further per rev. IE the speedo is under-reporting your speed. Also under-reporting distance travelled. You will need to apply a correction factor using your odometer's readings to get true mileage. Use a tire size calculator to get the difference between stock and your size. Apply the correction to your MPG calculations.

2015 crewcab 4x4 5.3L shortbox. Mine's smooth as glass - or so I thought. Speed limits around me are 55-60 most everywhere. Was going 70+ the other day and suddenly found the vibration. Had to slow to about 55 for it to go away. Could then go back up to 65 no issues. I don't know what to think about that - but sounds like im wasting my time with the dealer and balance. Since its not going to arise often for me, and 99% of my driving is 65 or less I can live with the situation. When I noticed it, I'd say it was a mild imbalance kind of level. Noticable to annoying., esp. if day to day you had to drive 70 on an interstate. 4-5 out of 10, where 10 is sell the dam truck. If I had it constantly at the speeds I drive I'd be upset - so i can feel for those who live in a different area.

Found this - nice explanation of torque vs torque and angle.

Well it makes sense because that's the way it is. Worked there 24 years, and the fastening system is one I supported for quite a while. I'd discuss your experience with the service dept, and perhaps 1-800 customer service. The torque spec - you found that where? Just curious, not I doubt your assertion. 59lbs and 130deg isn't the same fastening strategy as 70 ft lbs. Personally, I'd hold the dealer to the heat - mention what's worked for others and ask them to explain why/why not this is a good strategy. It seems to have worked for some on this thread, and not others. Trying to out think the engineers who designed the vehicle takes more than anecdotal experimentation - however I find value in seeing what others have tried, and sharing that info for others to try at their own discretion. There are lots of modifications here that are great for self-customizing projects, but don't raise safety issues. Changing torque values may be a good thing, but not without consulting the 'experts'. Over torquing stretches the fastener, and weakens it. Will it fail tomorrow? maybe not. Next time you re-tighten it? maybe ... kinda russian roulette. Just something to ponder, then one can make their own choice - but be prepared to live with the consequences. One thing to consider is when assembled, everything is new and clean. So if you were to take the time to remove the nut, clean the surfaces and threads, then re-torque to spec, its not inconceivable it'd take less torque to achieve the same fastener tension, than with rust and dirt.

Bolts at the factory are run up with (used to be air powered) electric torque controlled guns. Each gun has a controller that monitors the torque and shuts the tool off at target torque. Also can tell if it was cross threaded (not enough degrees). Fastening strategies are specific to the fastener, some are straight torque, some are torque and angle. Its a science, and the controller cal's are set by corporate. The controllers also record the values and report them to a host computer for monitoring the site wide performance of the entire process. Failed fastening operations set a light, and the QT has to come by to inspect, repair with a calibrated hand tool. There's no guess work, or slack employee input. They try to eliminate operator error for every build operation. Many fasteners are MVSS spec, and have to be recorded by law (well all are recorded now). Part of GM's quality initiatives. Possibility of poor materials that stretch over time, and this would get tagged by the warranty process. That would generate an internal investigation, and possible recall or TSB. Be assured when the vehicle left the factory, the fasteners were at design spec. I agree the dealerships are the weak link, as the tech's experience and perseverance will determine whether the customer is satisfied. This is a tough problem though - yet they do have vibration monitoring tools available to them. Possible it needs to be escalated to district rep before they really dig in. Onus is on the dealer though to resolve. You install aftermarket parts and complain, that complicates the process, and is an easy out for the dealer - but you knew that going in. Dealers push back because they only get so much $ back from GM for a certain repair code. You need to request escalation, if they don't get it first shot, or 2nd at most. Its a game. I hate it, but if you know the game, at least you can hold them to their playbook.

just finished my 2015 RC 2" leveling kit. Didnt go like the instructions. Hammering the steering linkage knuckle, nor upper ball joint knuckle would release the parts. Prying, and hammering on the parts a no-go. Even putting WD40 and waiting 20 min. - nope. You can remove the lower shock bolts (15mm) and use a prybar to get enough gap to slip in the spacer, but one of the new bolts wont fit under the half shaft unless you drop the suspension. You could put the bolt in the bottom and the nut on top, but it leaves very little space between it and the half shaft. The bolt head is much shorter. I elected to drop the suspension to get the bolt in from the top. Plan B was to undo the two bolts holding the lower control arm to the frame (18mm bolt head, 24mm nut). Bolts slid out easy. Had to undo the 2 bolts holding the sway bar clamp (10mm) to get the back lower control arm bolt out. Also still have to undo the sway bar link (15mm). After that, tie wrap the spacer to the shock, drop the bolts in (new bolts are 17mm), then grab the lower control arm and lift it while aligning the lower shock bolts. First side I had to use a clamp to squeeze the sway bar down enough to get the link nut back on. Took an hour side 1, 20 min side 2. Beer break in between. Looks great - perfect stance.