The screw holding the white plastic locking arm. 1/4 turn is probably all it needs, however I found that the zip tie trick helped on top of this. Mine was the same way where if I locked and unlocked enough it would finally do what it should, however it was more of a hindrance than hitting lock once and knowing it was going to actually lock.
I had a 2015 double cab for 8 months and traded up for a 2015 crew with the 6.5' box and couldn't be happier. The double cab was fine most of the time, but even putting things in the back seat could be a pain at times loading items I didn't want to put in the bed. The double cab did ride better on the shorter wheelbase, however.
My buddy recommended them to me as he has used them on his Acuras for years also. I think it has to do with the type of connector the 2014 and up trucks use. Not sure why there have to be so many different styles. There are half a dozen different connectors included with each blade purchase.
^^^ Good advice here. My screen was completely black a couple weeks back and once the truck would warm up the screen would eventually start flashing and working on and off. The next time I got in it it would do it again. Took the glove box apart, made sure the wires were connected and it hasn't done it since.
I tried a set of these on my Silverado and despite installing the right connector and affixing to the arm correctly both would make about 5 passes and then fall off. I would reinstall and the same thing would happen time and time again. Bought Bosch Icons and the attachment seems much more study and actually stays on the wiper arm like it is supposed to. Icons are a little more than $4 per, however.
I had this exact same issue a couple of months ago, but both lights would occasionally not fire. Literally tried everything swapping every single component, taking everything apart, checking connections, etc. I spent a ton of time on it only to find it was the bulbs going bad. Apparently it happens from time to time, which I thought was weird considering the kit was less than a year old. Put in a new set of bulbs and haven't had a single issue since.
I used an add a circuit to tap into the RAP fuse in the driver's side fuse box when installing my dash cam. Works wonderfully and remains on for the 10 minutes after shutting the truck off if you don't open the door, just like the radio does.
I ended up in the same boat. I emailed Pop & Lock asking if there was a fix and they had me send a video of what it was doing, to which they offered exactly zero help as their "tech support" didn't have a fix, and they won't sell any replacement parts. They were more than willing to offer me a whole new unit at full price, however. Needless to say that left a bit of a bad taste in my mouth and I won't be buying anything else from them in the future. That said, the zip tie trick is working for me as well. Sorry for the rant.
I had a similar rattle that drove me nuts when my truck was new in that same area. Turns out one of the "heat stakes" was defective and not as long as the other one, hence room to rattle. If I kept tension on the hood latch cable it would pull the panel tight thus preventing the noise. Take it in and hopefully it's something easy like mine once it was properly diagnosed.
winn0040 replied to demar002's topic in 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado & GMC SierraThe retainer clip was added to my truck today, but the dealer neglected to add a zip tie to keep it in place. No biggie as I put one on in about 3 seconds and all seems to be well at least in the short span I drove it home.
winn0040 replied to demar002's topic in 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado & GMC SierraI have an appointment with my dealer tomorrow to have this addressed. Mine doesn't do it all that often, but it is annoying when it does. Lots of good info here at the tail end of this thread: www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/154219-seat-movement-issues/
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