Enough

I have to agree that the technology has outpaced the training on the dealer level. My 2018 has spent 2 separate weeks at the dealership for a no start condition. They cannot diagnose the issue other than disconnecting and re-connecting every electrical component they find and hope for resolution. The first time the truck went down at 243 miles and had to be towed in. The second time it went down around 3,800 miles and I farted around enough to get it in limp mode and drove it to the dealer, actually hoping for a catastrophic failure. No such luck darn it !! 99.9 percent of the time the truck runs great. All stock burning regular gas at 23.5 MPG for the 58 mile round trip to and from work. Big bonus is they forgot to add the "Chevy Shake" to this truck ! But the clock is ticking and I am confident that the truck will shut down again. Maybe I will be able to trick it in to starting, maybe not. And once again the dealership will not be able to find the fault. Too much tech and only a minor stumble in amperage in some minute component will take it out. When it happens again and they get it running, the for sale sign will go in the window. It will be replaced with one of those old gas sucking trucks where you could actually identify the few components under the hood. Where if you have gas and spark it will get you down the road. I enjoy the comfort and convenience of my 2018 Silverado. I just don't trust it's dependability.

Mitchell and others publish body and frame specs for use by body shops, even for the older models. The newer specs should be in the upfitter diagrams.

Electrical components sourced from China and Mexico and awarded to low bid contractors to increase profit. We're lucky more of our trucks aren't rolling fireballs. My truck will carry full coverage as long as I own it.

Equals 1FunCobra !! Enjoy ! The truck pulled great up to around 3500-4000 RPMs but with the profile of a brick and the restriction in air flow caused by the Motorcraft 2 BBL, stock air cleaner, and functioning EGR valve pushing the pedal much further had limited returns. It was fun in the mud !

What are you putting the 351M in ? Had one in a 77-1/2 F-250 4 wheel drive. Ran a Crane Econopower cam with adjustable push rods and the stock 2 BBL Motorcraft carb with some wicked advance on the distributor. With 4.10 gearing and 36 in Grad Prix tires that lightweight surprised lots of folks.

Crew cab door panels will not fit. The regular cab doors are longer than the crew cab doors. Sorry for the bad news.

He was trying to take a picture of the moon but the phone auto-focused on the cluster instead !!

Upgrade to the 2018 "Q" charge module. Module and plug and play adapter pigtail run about $100.00. No need to replace the whole lid. While you are making the swap spin the pad 180 degrees so you can get the phone closer to the charger. I-Phone XR in a Spec case will not sit flat but charges just as well canted as it does flat without the case. It charges faster using the cable, but at least I have the option to just drop it on the console lid for charging.

Save your money for the anger management counselor and the horn. Come on the forum and vent. We understand. Unfortunately there are more of "them" out there than us who think the the world will end if their ever important text is not sent. Of course the rest of the world is supposed to patiently wait while they compose the perfect text and read the response, then post the "like" on Facebook.

And all of this makes me wonder why. Why make it so complicated ? I am happy that you have the knowledge and patience to tackle these challenges. I'll stick to buying your plug and play harnesses thank you !

Curious if this might involve the use of some Escalade bits and pieces .........and also wonder why the motor has to be changed. Juice to the motor should be controlled by the switch. It already has limits that shut the power off when fully raised or lowered from the factory. So a latching window switches (from the Escalade ??) would keep power on until the limit is reached then shut off vs. the momentary switches in place from the factory. This is just my simple old mind trying to understand what is going on in the new truck's electrical system. It makes about as much sense as Common Core Math. Take something that is simple and works and complicate the heck out of it

Open up this link about rail dust. You are correct, the metal is embedded in the paint. https://www.carwash.com/what-is-rail-dust/

You asked for opinions so... Thank your for having flares to cover the tires sticking out past your fenders. I really don't understand the barrel wheels sticking way out with no coverage. Not my style at all. I just wish the flares didn't have those fake "bolt" pockets in them. There is nothing that screams rugged like a fake plastic chrome bolt. Make the surface smooth and clean. Since most of them stick on with double back tape, why the poor attempt at look alike bolts ? Just 2 cents from an old guy who thinks the flares are practical in that application but just doesn't like the style of them. But then I also don't believe in "level Kits". My 18 foot leveler drops on the trailer ball.

Vision makes a similar 6 Spoke Vision Wheels makes a 6 spoke that looks similar in full chrome, gloss black center, and gunmetal center. https://www.visionwheel.com/wheel/524/VisionWheel/141 Legend 6?finishID=4

Personally I would stay away from those cab vents. There are a couple of threads on here documenting problems with them leaking. The plug on the floor sound like a better idea.