Enough

You asked for opinions so... Thank your for having flares to cover the tires sticking out past your fenders. I really don't understand the barrel wheels sticking way out with no coverage. Not my style at all. I just wish the flares didn't have those fake "bolt" pockets in them. There is nothing that screams rugged like a fake plastic chrome bolt. Make the surface smooth and clean. Since most of them stick on with double back tape, why the poor attempt at look alike bolts ? Just 2 cents from an old guy who thinks the flares are practical in that application but just doesn't like the style of them. But then I also don't believe in "level Kits". My 18 foot leveler drops on the trailer ball.

Vision makes a similar 6 Spoke Vision Wheels makes a 6 spoke that looks similar in full chrome, gloss black center, and gunmetal center. https://www.visionwheel.com/wheel/524/VisionWheel/141 Legend 6?finishID=4

Personally I would stay away from those cab vents. There are a couple of threads on here documenting problems with them leaking. The plug on the floor sound like a better idea.

Phillip, Give it some more time and miles. With only 844 miles on the clock your truck is still breaking in. My truck's average increased until I got about 5,000 miles on it and is now pretty consistent. I drive 29 miles one way to work. The first 15 are stop and go traffic, the middle is 12 miles on I-10, and the end is another 2 miles of stop and go. 21.5 MPG average.

If your rear seat passengers are not on your mind enough for you remember them on your own maybe you shouldn't have them in the first place.

Not sure how insurance and deductibles are in Canada, but I'd be willing to bet you are looking at over $500,00 for the repair. I would file a claim and let the insurance company do what i pay them for if it were my truck.

Thank you Ducklawyer for showing me that they do still make 35" tires with sidewalls !! They remind me of the 35" Gumbo Mudders I used to have on my '78 F-150 4WD on 15" wheels. It's amazing what a little sidewall flex can do for ride and traction. Great looking truck !! Wish you had gotten a RED one !!

Donstar, thanks for the tip on the Michelins. I remember when the 16.5" taper bead seat on my 1978 F-250 were considered huge but now have difficulty finding 14" tires for our Nissan Hardbody ! We recently found new Hancooks for the Nissan. $210.00 for a set of 4 !!

60 year old guy here so here's my 2 cents. My idea of a leveling "kit" is a load in the bed or a trailer hitched to the bumper. It's a truck. If I were to put a leveling kit on my truck it would squat when I tow my boat unless I put air bags on it. I'll save throwing all that money away and enjoy it as a truck with a rake to it, until it is loaded. I think I have the smallest and lightest factory tires available on a Silverado from the factory. 255/70R-17 Bridgestones on five spoke alloy wheels. They still have enough sidewall to do their job of soaking up vibration and minor impacts instead of transferring them to the truck. I may jump up one size to a 265/70R-17 when the stocks wear out just for the heck of it. For a truck it rides great !

Carfax and Charmin are equivalent. At least the Charmin is soft. An independent shop can cut a car in half and rebuild it and it will never show on Carfax. Carfax shows lots of "one-owner" cars but doesn't tell you the owner was Enterprise, Hertz, Etc.. I was in the collision repair business for 28 years. Carfax is a waste of time. The door and bed have been repaired and I would suspect the cab corner has been also. If you can't get an estimate of the damage and repair cost and are comfortable with the amount of damage done, pass. Also consider diminished value of the wrecked truck. Your bank and insurance company my pass on the truck since it's been damaged. Too many fish in the sea to settle for an injured one.

My experience was that there was interference with a wiring harness and it was a real pain reaching up under there. 1/4" shallow socket on a ratchet was so tight it kept reversing itself on the back side of the dash and ratcheting wrench could only take small bites. Since you will already have the trim bezel and the radio screen removed why not take four more screws loose and make things easy? Once you have the trim bezel off you'll see what I'm talking about. Your hands will also thank you. It also opens things up so you can see better routing for the USB cable you have to run to the HMI. The most worry-some part of the whole job for me was getting the radio trim bezel off. I thought for sure I had snapped it 3 or 4 times but it was just another clip coming loose. I found it easier to start at the bottom and work up. Slow and steady pressure worked for me. If you are unsure of what you are doing take a picture of every step of disassembly for reference. It forces you to focus on the job one small task at a time instead of being overwhelmed by the whole thing.

Looking at the pictures in the link I would have to say yes. Notice the notches inside of the trim piece and the detent balls on the sides of the cup holder. It's an easy swap. Open up the console lid and start from the rear edge of the trim panel. Lots of videos including Phil Gamboa's detail the process. Doing this swap will allow you to fit at least another 25 pounds of "essential stuff" in your console !!

I did mine without removing any bolts from either seat. From start to finish removing jump seat to console installed in just under 2 hours. I had previously installed then removed the same console from my RCSB so I had a feel for what I was doing, plus I've been working on cars for 47 years. The one thing I do recommend removing is the multi-function switch under the head unit. It makes installing the front console bracket so much easier ! Move both seats all of the way back and remove the front jumpseat bolts, then move both seats all of the way forward and remove the rear jumpseat bolts. Roll the jumpseat on it's nose. Reach under the passenger seat and pull the little piece of plastic that the jumpseat connectors are clipped to off of the studs it slips over then disconnect them. The rest is in Phil's video. Doing it my way there is no risk of scratching the door jambs with the seat tracks when removing the seats from the truck. You don't have to pick up and move the seats. And you don't disconnect the airbags and risk upsetting the airbag gods. I'm 60 years old, 5'10", and 185 # so no spring chicken. By the way, I used no power tools.

Wish i had a better picture but I no longer have the truck. This is what the console should look like in a regular cab. This was a 2016 RCSB WT. The cab is the same as the 2500. Initially I had some fitment problems like this because of interference with a wiring harness near the top mounting holes of the front bracket so I pulled the multi-function switch out to see what the problem was. Once I cleared the harness out of the way the bracket pulled up tight. It's also a heck of a lot easier to get to the 2 upper bolts with the switch out of the way.