Enough

For the folks that got the $50.00 rebate because your truck does not have the "chip" to make the AFM components function remember that all of those components are in your engine, just not functioning as they were designed to. There have been and will continue to be documented failures on those components on "chipless" trucks as well as those like mine with the full bag of chips. As others have mentioned there are kits to replace all of the internals with non AFM components. If I still have my truck and the lifter failure occurs out of warranty I'll spend the money on the "delete" kit. Cost will probably be lower than going with OEM parts that are failure prone and labor is what it is.

Go to a pull-a-part wrecking yard and grab one out of a wrecked truck. Either pop the safety clip out of the connector or find a cut harness with one.

2020 Silverado LT has been in the shop since Tuesday for the second attempt at fixing the leak. Truck now has 35,000 miles on it. Of course no loaners are available so I am driving my 1995 Nissan Hardbody. 27 years old with 130,000 miles on it and the slider doesn't leak on it......

My 2020 was "fixed". It still leaks. I can push the headliner up and see no cracks in the plastic molded to the slider. The water actually runs all of the way to the driver's side of the plastic then runs down the inside of the glass. So far the headliner is dry. I have to believe the back of the spoiler or the 3rd brake light are the source of the leak. I just wish there was a way to take the headliner completely out without damaging it so I could locate and fix the leak.

I've seen a guy rolling around in my county in a custom T-1 regular cab short bed. Traffic jammed me up and he got away before I could catch up to him.....lowered 6-7 inches on some massive tires and wheels but not laying frame. It's got a great stance ! He appeared from behind other vehicles quietly and disappeared just about the time I realized what it was. Probably totally useless as a truck but the ear to ear grin on his face spoke volumes ! I think I actually drooled a little as he went by ......

5.3. Running 87 octane I'm averaging just a tick under 24 MPG on my 58 mile round trip commute and have more than enough power to tow my boat. When the roads are wet and the bed is empty I have to be careful of the back end wanting to come around if I push too hard on the skinny pedal. I don't need any more power than the 5.3 gives me. Even the crappy gas served up in neighboring Florida doesn't give me any problems. It always seems to be a couple of points under the posted number on the pumps.

My understanding from other posts on this forum is that even if you got "lucky" and don't have DFM your engine still has the same internal components that mine with DFM has. You just don't have the chip to activate them and should have gotten a whopping $50.00 discount off of MSRP. The jury is still out about your chances of your truck having the same lifter failure my truck might have. 26,733 miles and counting on mine......

Two months, no codes, including on my March OnStar Diagnostics Report received Thursday 3/3/22. I back 300 feet down my driveway every night so they have had every chance to throw codes and have not. Lasfit T10 license plate light bulbs. Lasfit 912 back up bulbs. Both listed as Canbus error free on the website.

I used Lasfit LED's in both of those locations. They can be ordered directly from Lasfit or bought on E-bay. They are bright enough that I took the aftermarket LED lights that I had mounted under the bumper off and still have plenty of light to back up in complete darkness. The truck looks better without the aftermarket lights under the bumper too !

There are posts on this forum about "clunking" noises coming from the rear end as a result of U-bolts not being tightened adequately from the factory. If they are loose enough to allow a "clunk", they are loose enough to shift with a side load. Have the dealer do a 4 wheel alignment and tighten the U-bolts to spec.

After installing the Lasfit backup light bulbs my tag lights looked so yellow in comparison that I installed Lasfit back up light bulbs too. The combination is bright enough that I removed the under bumper LED lights I had installed and have plenty of light to back up in the dark safely.

I have an open invitation to all of my friends. Take me with you to go pick up your new vehicle. After I show you everything wrong with it, I bet you will think twice about buying it. I have been kicked off of a few car lots and asked not to return. Grumpy you better be careful about when and where you show that Man Card. In this world of natty light seltzer drinking. skinny pants wearing, white sole dress shoes, and commercials showing teen age boys that don't even know what a lug wrench is you might get sent off for sensitivity training and come back neutered.

If I had the space you seem to have and it were my grandfather's it would be a tough decision. Do you have time or desire to see it back together ? Remember that it will have 1952 brakes, steering , and power unless you dive down the other rabbit hole of upgrading during the build. Do you keep it original and accept the mechanical limitations of that era or build it better, safer, and more likely to be driven with modern components ? You could spend the next year or so researching online about upgrades ! At 62 years old I am trying to convince myself I have one more build in me after 8 frame up restorations over the years. But then I plop my butt in the 2020 355 HP crew cab pickup with power everything and forget about it for a while....

Well... mine is leaking from the same spot that was "fixed" the first time so it will be headed back for the second try soon. Whatever sealer they used seems to be making water track to the opposite side where it is now leaking there too. Living in a place that gets 68 inches of rain a year plus the occasional tropical storm or worse having a watertight vehicle is fairly important. Given the price we pay for these trucks we deserve better. Giving up and putting in a fixed glass only enables GM to continue passing off flawed designs instead of making things the right way. I'm too old to put up with crappy engineering. Strike 2 on this truck.

Bonding plastic and glass together is really never a good idea simply because of the different expansion and contraction rates of the two materials, but that's what we have with the sliders. Sooner or later either the plastic will crack or the glass will shatter. The urethane sealants in use now are really quite good at what they do, but the foundation they rely on is questionable. Then for good measure move the third brake light which used to mount in the rear of the metal cab to a plastic spoiler bolted to a metal roof that has holes drilled through it to mount said spoiler. They probably should have designed a sump in the rear floor pan and included a bilge pump with a float switch to the T1's. I am on my first reseal. My dealership removed the spoiler and resealed it too. I have my fingers crossed !