Enough

Thank you Ducklawyer for showing me that they do still make 35" tires with sidewalls !! They remind me of the 35" Gumbo Mudders I used to have on my '78 F-150 4WD on 15" wheels. It's amazing what a little sidewall flex can do for ride and traction. Great looking truck !! Wish you had gotten a RED one !!

Donstar, thanks for the tip on the Michelins. I remember when the 16.5" taper bead seat on my 1978 F-250 were considered huge but now have difficulty finding 14" tires for our Nissan Hardbody ! We recently found new Hancooks for the Nissan. $210.00 for a set of 4 !!

60 year old guy here so here's my 2 cents. My idea of a leveling "kit" is a load in the bed or a trailer hitched to the bumper. It's a truck. If I were to put a leveling kit on my truck it would squat when I tow my boat unless I put air bags on it. I'll save throwing all that money away and enjoy it as a truck with a rake to it, until it is loaded. I think I have the smallest and lightest factory tires available on a Silverado from the factory. 255/70R-17 Bridgestones on five spoke alloy wheels. They still have enough sidewall to do their job of soaking up vibration and minor impacts instead of transferring them to the truck. I may jump up one size to a 265/70R-17 when the stocks wear out just for the heck of it. For a truck it rides great !

Carfax and Charmin are equivalent. At least the Charmin is soft. An independent shop can cut a car in half and rebuild it and it will never show on Carfax. Carfax shows lots of "one-owner" cars but doesn't tell you the owner was Enterprise, Hertz, Etc.. I was in the collision repair business for 28 years. Carfax is a waste of time. The door and bed have been repaired and I would suspect the cab corner has been also. If you can't get an estimate of the damage and repair cost and are comfortable with the amount of damage done, pass. Also consider diminished value of the wrecked truck. Your bank and insurance company my pass on the truck since it's been damaged. Too many fish in the sea to settle for an injured one.

My experience was that there was interference with a wiring harness and it was a real pain reaching up under there. 1/4" shallow socket on a ratchet was so tight it kept reversing itself on the back side of the dash and ratcheting wrench could only take small bites. Since you will already have the trim bezel and the radio screen removed why not take four more screws loose and make things easy? Once you have the trim bezel off you'll see what I'm talking about. Your hands will also thank you. It also opens things up so you can see better routing for the USB cable you have to run to the HMI. The most worry-some part of the whole job for me was getting the radio trim bezel off. I thought for sure I had snapped it 3 or 4 times but it was just another clip coming loose. I found it easier to start at the bottom and work up. Slow and steady pressure worked for me. If you are unsure of what you are doing take a picture of every step of disassembly for reference. It forces you to focus on the job one small task at a time instead of being overwhelmed by the whole thing.

Looking at the pictures in the link I would have to say yes. Notice the notches inside of the trim piece and the detent balls on the sides of the cup holder. It's an easy swap. Open up the console lid and start from the rear edge of the trim panel. Lots of videos including Phil Gamboa's detail the process. Doing this swap will allow you to fit at least another 25 pounds of "essential stuff" in your console !!

I did mine without removing any bolts from either seat. From start to finish removing jump seat to console installed in just under 2 hours. I had previously installed then removed the same console from my RCSB so I had a feel for what I was doing, plus I've been working on cars for 47 years. The one thing I do recommend removing is the multi-function switch under the head unit. It makes installing the front console bracket so much easier ! Move both seats all of the way back and remove the front jumpseat bolts, then move both seats all of the way forward and remove the rear jumpseat bolts. Roll the jumpseat on it's nose. Reach under the passenger seat and pull the little piece of plastic that the jumpseat connectors are clipped to off of the studs it slips over then disconnect them. The rest is in Phil's video. Doing it my way there is no risk of scratching the door jambs with the seat tracks when removing the seats from the truck. You don't have to pick up and move the seats. And you don't disconnect the airbags and risk upsetting the airbag gods. I'm 60 years old, 5'10", and 185 # so no spring chicken. By the way, I used no power tools.

Wish i had a better picture but I no longer have the truck. This is what the console should look like in a regular cab. This was a 2016 RCSB WT. The cab is the same as the 2500. Initially I had some fitment problems like this because of interference with a wiring harness near the top mounting holes of the front bracket so I pulled the multi-function switch out to see what the problem was. Once I cleared the harness out of the way the bracket pulled up tight. It's also a heck of a lot easier to get to the 2 upper bolts with the switch out of the way.

Sounds like the motor in the driver's side mirror head has gone bad. I've never changed on, but you tube has videos...

And here's a picture with the Texas Edition badges removed.

Stitch, Here is a picture of my 2018 Silverado Texas edition for a reference point. It came with the color matched door handles, mirror covers, and side moldings. I got the 2 week old black side steps off of Craigslist for $200.00. You may be able to score some for yours for less than the cost of powder coating. Since this picture was taken the Texas Edition badges have been removed. I think it looks much better without them. The giant plastic yellow Bow Tie, "LT", and "ADO" have been removed from the tailgate as well. Left the "SILVER" on for now. My truck is filthy right now with pollen but I can take a picture in the morning so you can have an idea what yours would look like without the Texas Edition badges on it if you wold like.

Glad I'm not the only one ! I had mine set on best 400 mile when the truck only had 243 miles on it and got the same reading you got. I was convinced there was something wrong with the truck until my friend who happens to be the salesman I bought the truck from smiled and changed the display.

Find a WT in a salvage yard. My 2016 had the jump seat without the storage compartment. Still not the most comfortable seat but it has a bit more padding.

Don't know if this a known issue but if the upper ball joint is really "popped" out the truck is not driveable ! The ball joint needs to be replaced immediately ! The truck is not safe to drive in this condition.

On looks alone I'll pass, but feel the same way about the 2019 Silverado and Sierra. Just personal preference. Happy to have my 2018 Silverado.