Shall36

I have a set of SuperSpring SumoSprings that I removed from my truck before I traded it in. They are in great shape. Part number SSR-207-47. These fit 2011 - 2019 (maybe more) HD trucks. e-Trailer SumoSprings $110 - Shipped to you via USPS

inTune i2 tuner for GM vehicles unlocked with license. I unmarried the unit from my truck before I traded the truck in. Unit is completely functional and updated. Please do not hesitate to ask any questions. This is the i2030 model for GM vehicles. Should cover 2014 - 2018 Silverado/Sierra 1500 Check website for complete compatibility list. Compatibility List $150 Shipped to you via USPS

Start tracing the pos and neg cables and look for loose, pitted or rotten connections. If you have a voltmeter, you can verify where the power drops off. Also note that cable can corrode from the inside out, though you would more likely have a no crank condition with power to accessories.

Try cycling the key off-on-off several times before trying to start. If it fires right up, you have a bad check valve in the fuel system. Normally, the check valve is a part of the fuel pump, but I’m not familiar with this setup.

I don’t think there was a max towing package. There were camping mirrors and fifth wheel hitch.the Z|71 suspension package included special shocks, badging, and probably tires, but I believe the suspension was the same. Maybe someone knows different. you won’t need any special towing features for towing a TT, though the camping mirrors would be nice…but we can always add those aftermarket.

I had that happen on my 2015. It was the ECM. Covered under warranty.

I suspect going to a larger tube will not help, but here’s a relatively easy way to see. T in a vacuum gauge to a vacuum port behind the throttle body...most any port should do. Run the line into the cab or rig something up so you can see the gauge while driving. If you go full throttle and the gauge drops to 0, there’s no restriction. Watch the gauge through the RPM sweep as more rpm will require more air. If you do see a restriction (I.e., vacuum showing > 0), it could also be the air filter. there may also be a MAP reading accessible through obd2, which would be easier to monitor, but I’m not sure.

Please link or cite a state or federal statue that says the manufacturer’s GVWR cannot be exceeded by law. In some states, you can register at higher or lower GVWRs. For non-commercial applications, weight is rarely, if ever, enforced. For non-commercial applications, what is enforceable? Serious questions here as there’s a lot of stuff posted on the matter but I’ve not found any citations of specific law that addresses this.

DOT, from what I understand, only cares about RAWR and tire rating. The tax man might care about GVWR because you didn’t pay enough tax for your loading. You’ll also read about how if you are over GVWR that your insurance won’t cover you in an accident and all that jazz. This is another internet lore and I’ve not seen a real example where his has happened (it may exist and hopefully someone with a link to a case will post it here). Last I checked, it’s illegal to speed, make an improper left turn, drink and drive, but coverage isn’t automatically denied. I suppose if you were way over loaded, to the point of gross negligence, you might be in trouble. Also, if you are at fault, you are at fault; doesn’t matter if you are over weight unless you were so overweight that it was a contributing factor in the accident then maybe there’s additional punishment or liability? And anyone can sue anyone, but contingency fee lawyers much rather go after insurance policies because they actually pay. Good luck getting a $500k+ judgement paid by Joe Schmo; garnish his $50k a year salary and renew the judgement every 7 years. That’s how those big accident attorneys get rich. (Insert rolling eyes emoji to indicate sarcasm; lots of folks can’t detect sarcasm just by reading text). if you’re going fifth wheel, the 3500 setup is preferable. They are harder to find. The 2500’s are plenty capable. Just go to a campground and see what gets towed with a 2500 class truck of any brand.

I had a intermittent light problem, too, and the issue was that I had tapped into some of the wires under the dash that connect to the body control module. I was doing that when I was wiring up my tow mirrors. In the process, the connection for the wire that controls one of the headlights was compromised. Fixed that, problem solved.

So if your wife is like mine, she hates the non-power passenger seat in your truck. The seat is too low (and can't be raised) and feels like you fall into it because there's no lower back support. On long trips, she would sit on a pillow and stuff a towel behind her lower back. The manual passenger seat has two main flaws: it's way too low and it has no support. I have a 10-way power seat on the driver side and the lumbar support works pretty good. So I took off the back panel to see how the power lumbar adjuster works. There's a plastic panel attached to the seat frame on one side and a motorized cable on the other. The motor pulls the cable taught to increase lumbar support and relaxes to less support. On the passenger seat, that lower panel is a wire mesh attached by metal rods to the seat frame and it's obviously so slack that it won't provide any support unless the seat occupant is of very good size (my wife's not small but she's not big). I found some packing material that came with a TV...it's not Styrofoam...it's more of that plastic webbing stuff...and shaped it to the right width and right thickness. I shoved that between the seat back and the wire support. With a little trial and error, it's just right and very comfortable. Second problem solved. The first problem of being too low is actually a really easy fix. There's a fellow who makes rails that will raise up the passenger seat to the same height you would get if you had a power seat. It was an easy install and less than $100. https://seating-solutions.com/ The seat is much more comfortable and my wife is thrilled. Prior to doing this mod, I considered buying a new truck and buying a power seat out of the junkyard. The first option was really expensive. ? Even a junkyard power seat was $300 and the ones I found didn't have heat. I know some folks like to swap in a complete leather interior, but I didn't want to drop the $1,500+ to do that plus the wiring nightmare. The manual passenger seat isn't the greatest seat in the world, but for less than $100 and about 1 hour of time, you can make it a lot more comfortable.

FWIW, I appraised my 2015 2500HD SLE 2wd 6.0 with 59k miles on Carvana about 2weeks ago. They offered $32k! That’s about $10k more than dealers were offering on trade. If you are buying a new truck, strongly consider selling to Carvana. I decided to not buy a new truck so I didn’t go through with the sale to Carvana, so maybe that number was too good to be true.

At 41’, I think you’ll be heavier than 13.5K. I would go by the GVWR on the trailer. If they let you test tow before buying, do it. You will be close on payload. The truck will pull it but it won’t be a lot of fun. At 11k in Florida on a hot day, there’s a lot of downshifting and revving and such. if the Reese gooseneck pin box will bolt up, give that serious consideration. At about $1,200, not too much more than the Andersen and cheaper than an Andersen plus cushioned pinbox combo. the Curt double lock is a great value. If you go Anderson or any hitch that adapts to a ball, you cannot use a functional pivoting pin box; you have to lock the turret in place. That’s only an issue if you have cap to window clearance problems. I had to flip my Andersen ball receiver around to clear the pin box to tailgate but still get a tight turn. Not 90* but plenty. You can see the axles on my trailer shift out of line with each other once you hit about 60*...doing a full jackknife might rip them off.

I have the Curt double lock gooseneck and the Andersen Ultimate. Install of the Curt was a bit of a PITA but doable on your back in the driveway and basic tools, though you will need a cutoff wheel to trim the muffler shield. Also, buy a good holes saw. Every setup is different. Originally, I had a Reese Revolution and the setup was perfect. I put in a morryde orbital, which is taller, and now it’s a bit nose high. My camper does not accommodate a standard bolt pattern pin box so my options are very limited. If I had a camper with a standard set of pin box wings I would be using a Reese Gooseneck pin box. Is that 12k weight dry or GVWR? If it’s 41’, there’s no way it’s 12k ready to camp. My 29’ HT trailer I scaled at just under 11k this weekend with about 2,200 on the pin. My truck GVWR was just under 9,500. There’s no way I would do a 14k trailer with the 6.0 if I plan to camp on a regular basis and I’m in flat Florida.

While inconvenient, give them time to make it right. Sounds like they did at. I guess no one remembers buying a new car in the 70's and headaches that followed. Having the truck in for a week or two is a bit of a drag but not unreasonable so long as they provide a loaner or rental. I guess we consumers expect a new product, even cars, to be issue free and if they aren't, we expect to be able to take it back for a refund like taking back a defective coffee maker to Wal-Mart. Yah, it's a drag to spend that kind of money and have defects, but it happens. Go buy a new RV and see how many trips you have to make back to the dealer to get things fixed.

Is it possible you have the 3.73 and not the 4.10?