Shall36

If GM thinks I’ll buy a new truck from them after the mess of garbage they’ve been putting out, they are nuts.

Quick update: yesterday, I connected my phone to the truck WiFi. That resolved the issue.

I have the same symptoms. Ar Play works fine when attached with a cable. iPhone 15 in a 2021 AT4.

I have a ‘21 AT4 with 6.2 and it’s the best vehicle I’ve had. Tons of power, nice ride, lots of features, super comfortable. I’ve had it for 3 years. I bought it used in January ‘22. No issues. Hasn’t been in the shop for anything. I will say that the stock Goodyear duratracs leave a bit to be desired and they are noisy.

If you don’t already have a full head of gray hair, you will after you tow that trailer with your truck. With a 6 inch lift, I’m not sure I would tow any TT. I strongly recommend going out to IRV2 and check out the forums over there if you haven’t already. You can do whatever you want, obviously, but I think you’ll find that the consensus among people who tow travel trailers regularly will be that you probably are going to be very limited and what you can tow with your truck, especially given the lift kit.

I had the same thing. Top off your coolant reservoir.

Old timers like me will tell you that we never changed oil pan drain plug gaskets in the old days. There are plenty of cars running around with original stuff thats over 40 years old. The reason why you can’t find a replacement is because you don’t need a replacement.

Don’t feel all too bad. If the compressor had internal damage and was pushing bits through the system, changing the expansion valve along with the compressor makes very good sense. Of course, I am assuming they also did the accumulator while they had the system open, and hopefully they also flushed the rest of the system to get any trash out.

Are they excluded explicitly or is the powertrain warranty inclusion by named component? In other words, what’s the rationale for them not being covered? Typically, warranties either explicitly exclude items or only cover named components. Or is GM’s rationale here that trans cooler lines are consumed maintenance items like brakes and spark plugs and such?

I didn’t read through the online warranty. Did someone find an exclusion that carves out a trans line? Was this the original power train warranty or an extended warranty?

Maybe check the Texas Speed and Michigan Motor Sports to see if their DFM delete packages include a cam?

Guys, not complex. Auto AWD in the GM trucks is designed to be used in any condition. On dry roads, it’s only going to put power to the front wheels if you break the rear tires loose. There are other AWD systems that are full time AWD. The 4wd setting puts power up front 100% of the time. You will get binding if the wheel is turned and the tires have enough grip to not break loose. This is why any 4wd system should only be engaged when on loose roads. “Auto” is not the same as “4WD”. Auto is akin to AWD, which is different from 4WD. i personally set to 2WD unless it’s raining then I use Auto. I could leave in Auto all the time but it’s sometimes more fun to be in 2WD.

Nope. You’re right. No options. Too bad.

Just install aftermarket lockers. Controls would be different, but functionality would be the same.

I have the same setup and the truck sometimes does the same thing. You’ll be driving along and notice the AC gets warm all of a sudden. It usually only last a few moments and then the AC will come back cold.

When I painted my calipers, I removed the rear caliper from the rear bracket. I did not need to put it in parking brake service mode. Of course, the parking brake was off. Note that I did not remove the brake line from the caliper. Install was straightforward. I will say that if you want to avoid having to reset error codes, disconnect the battery before you do this. If you are replacing the brake pads, the rear caliper parking brake mechanism would need to be retracted. I think that’s when you need to put it into some sort of service mode, although I believe there are some videos showing that you do not have to do that. There is a way to retract it manually. There is no cable on this set up; the parking brake uses an electric motor to screw in an out, causing tension on the pads.

I have the LoMax, which may have been dealer installed for the first owner. The back two panels fold, but if I need the full length of the bed, I have to remove the cover. Some of the other options out there will fold up against the back window. Not a big enough deal now for me to spend the $1,000, but if I were ordering new, I would spend the extra money.

GM is not ignoring the problem, but I honestly think they aren’t sure what to do. Also, I think supply chain issues are limiting what they can do. I suspect the real fail rate is low enough that they will just swallow repairs as they come. Keep in mind the scale here….there’s a bunch of these motors out there so even a small fail rate translates into a lot of failures. That said, acceptable defect rates for other manufactured goods are much lower than what GM is willing to do. RAM had a similar problem early on with MDS but I think they finally got that solved. The concept of DoD is good but I’m not sure anyone has a good system in practice. What’s the best, most reliable DoD system out there?

That’s pretty slick. Beats fighting the seal with a pick.

Couple of thoughts… yes, 220/221, whatever it takes. Awesome reference. There were no muscle cars 15 to 20 years ago. The ‘74 Trans Am SD 455 was arguably the last muscle car until….wait for it…the Buick GN. Yes, these trucks are quicker than most of the sports cars from 1972 to 2005, with the exception of properly equipped Fox bodies and 4th/5th gen Camaros. I recall factory Late 80’s fox bodies getting into the low 14’s and high 13’s and there were SOOOOO many performance parts for those cars. I remember the early LS F Bodies having lots of potential. I always thought the mustangs and F bodies were just garbage cars all around so I never bought one. The 6.2 is awesome especially when towing. The 5.3 is double the goodness of the first gen SBC, except for the stupid AFM/DFM…and only because of lifters failing…not because of the operation. If your 5.3 is a slug, you probably have a stupid high rear end gear. I had an Avalanche with the 5.3/6-speed/3.08. What a turd. I had a 3.73 installed (that was a fiasco) and that gear really woke up the truck. It was still a turd overall, but it least it towed my camper better. Building power with an LS is sooooo easy compared to the first gen SBC. Oh my gosh….dollar for dollar, there is no comparison. It’s all in the heads. The only LS based motor that was a bit of a turd was the 4.8. Anyone pining for a first gen SBC over an LS is waxing nostalgic….maybe you want your 300 baud modem back, too? Yes, I had one of those and thought it was the best thing ever. Yes, you would literally see text scrolling onto the screen, line by line.

I did all four shocks. Put me in the camp of it’s an improvement, but not a huge difference. My Ranchos on my AT4 had 20,000 miles on them. I would not go out and replace brand new factory shocks with a Bilstiens but if you have some mileage on yours, you will likely notice a bit of an improvement. It’s not night and day. I did set the fronts at the maximum height. The truck sits closer to level, but the bad news is that when I tow my boat, the rear is about 1 inch low. So now I have to deal with that.

^^^. The answer is, yes. I’m all for waste not, want not…but this is getting ridiculous.

New price - $150

New price - $175

Andersen Full Bed Support System for 2015 - 2019 2500/3500 HD trucks. This kit can be used with the Andersen Ultimate Hitch to stop bed deflection under load. Part Number 3243. These are new in the box. I never installed the set and I sold the trailer. Package is 5" x 6" x 9" and weighs 16 lbs. Info I'd like $30 for the kit plus actual shipping cost.