reelbusy

you will add a few ounces of pag oil into the new condenser line openings (1-2), install condenser (new o-rings preferably) pull vac, sit , recharge. Chrisfix on youtube has a pretty good popular tutorial. for pag i'm not sure what gm specifies but for our honda i used double end capped https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013HPWBGK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Stick with what i mentioned in my other post avoid the new self sealing freon cans as that adaptor just confuses the crap out of you. amazon has some dupont r134 that went really easy.

yeah their forums all have similar threads like this one =) I'd just go after market as long as it's a good brand and not worry about it. I put a denso in the van (75 bucks!) works great. Even if you didn't have this issue by 100k or so you could have gotten a rock into the coils and developed a leak there they're kinda out front and tend to have that happen but still yeah this is mass defect. Just make sure if you or someone else besides the dealer does it, no stop leak or any of that mess in the freon...even once.

It's not just the trucks, suv's too.

If you diy couple things (i didn't have to do my truck as it's under warr but just replaced the condenser on the kid hauler). Local stores may only have 134a in leak proof cans they seal off when the tap is removed, your traditional tap needs an adaptor, the one i had was irritating like eco gas cans. While i like the idea needs better execution, maybe there are better ones. Those stunk. The dupont freon only ones i got off amazon were easy to flow out of the can with traditional tap (night and day difference). 1 hour vac leak down test may or may not show a slow leak. It's testing under a vacuum but not pressure. I had to refill twice, my gauge wouldn't move in a couple hours even, it was only after a few months it went hot again that i thought to check the condenser (i had added dye) and saw the leak. Lots of youtube videos on this, but the leakproof or whatever you call them cans add complexity to making sure you purge the line, it's really easy to get confused as it's another knob to turn, another possible leak point (and the cheap plastic adaptor is that cheap) and closing the tap does not close the adaptor and can. If you buy a typical cheap gauge set off amazon,etc calibrate the gauge, don't over tighten the hoses to the manifold (if your gauge goes to full retard when pulling a vacuum that's likely what you did). When pulling a vac if you want to be sure your lines are clear to the ac valve connects and you're pulling vac there, just remove the hose and push in and make sure it's pulling air at that point (it's noticeable from a change in pitch of the vac pump) Somewhere in docs will be a recommendation to if you replace the consider to add an oz or so of pag oil. Anyways no idea on the truck but the kid hauler was easy 30 minutes to flip it out tops and then pull a vac for an hour, wait an hour, then recharge. Hardest part is the small cans are tough to weigh and that's the correct way, but whatever the truck takes hopefully works out pretty even adding in a bit of loss left in the can and small amount for purging the yellow line when you put a new can on (but the dupont cans went out really easy! i couldn't get those leak cans to flow out for squat without a bit of warming).

That got me thinking through. Mine was under warranty. So even though i told them look it's all over the gm sites so i'm sure it's the condenser but i didn't bother looking so check it. I suspect any dealer that acts like it's a mystery especially a drain and fill without checking that is taking you for a ride as surely they know that's the first thing to check, if not i'd wonder why?

It amazes me these guys actually have to diagnose u and default to 350 for a drain and fill as common as this is. I walked in and said it's probably the condenser i don't even have to pop the hood, it's all over the internet, so check that. They did say it was common but i was in and out. So your dealer sounds questionable to say the least if they didn't suspect and inspect that first hand.

LOL man that figures. thanks! goes out again i'll do it myself

have any part numbers?

Done. in and out in a few hours today, i was surprised guess there's a good supply out there now? part number they used was 84496335 Well see how it and the rest of the system holds up!

add me to list, 2015 with 27k miles so in luck there , still under warr for few months No idea i assume it's condenser but i haven't looked. hope this isn't backordered i called the dealer and service manager seemed to indicate it's common and not a problem but u know how that goes.... in FL gotta have the ac summer here.

I just lightly clean with apc and then spray wax or 303. It's coated anyways there's nothing for it to absorb conditioning wise, just shoe brush and vac off any dirt, clean off dirt with a microfiber and apc and protect from uv is all it needs, your urethane coating wore off for some reason. New cars leather seems crappy anyways but our Honda van I've never done a single thing to so far for 9 years and it's a kid hauler we beat the hell out of it. Only leather wear is edge which is expected (especially if you slide in and out not onto the seat). Do you get crumbs or something there? that's a sure way to abrade the coating. I do wonder about the perforated, seems it would be easier for jeans and stuff to abrade as each hole has to have an 'edge' I think on these only the seat top portion is leather (or whatever you want to call it these days) the sides are likely something else. but yeah everything seems made cheaper now.

extang revolution and bedtred