jpinoy

Took it for a camping trip, packed to the brim. Two kayaks(14' and 10') top and middle rack packed and bed packed.. cab packed as well with kids.. 4/hr drive through some mountains(210 miles one way), kayaks stayed strapped through some good speed . Might do a camper shell next time and put the rhino rack on top to hold the kayaks. I like the Elevate racks with the TS rails, works well with my BakFlip MX4. The rhino middle rack is great as well, keyed and easy to come on/off.

Wasn't aware there were soft/hard buttons... I have the hard buttons.

I'm sure you probably already got it... but this is what I got: camera 84929557, mirror 13536995

yeah, bought mine new for $450 off eBay, OEM box and all.

Looks good with the tow and chrome handles. I like chrome..

LIke many things I order.. it sits in the garage for a bit before I install it.. Finaly got around to installing my Elevate rack system. Getting ready for lumber runs and taking kayaks to the lake this summer.. I would give this rack system a 9/10. Only reaon is that installing it with my bakflip, it will raise it, so the seal on tailgate no longer sits flush. Will need to get a thicker seal or something. Def will put a plate over the wires to unlatch the cover, due to the gap it has created. Videos I saw, they only had 2 positions, the real high one and the low one. Folks on the video talked about driling holes between those two. For some reason, they must of listened to the customers, becase the one I order, has 3 height positions. The middle position clears the bakflip and it just clears the top of the cab. So perfect height. Will only put it on when needed.. takes about 5/mins to remove, so not bad. my bro told me I look like a contractor now..

Took me over 2 year just to get around to doing mine.. parts were just sitting there like 'hey, do you even remember what you bought us for?!"

I've been hanging around the other 'Add Dual Battery' thread for like 2 years collecting parts and they just sat around. I installed my battery tray 2yrs ago hoping that would get me going, but nope.. With the isolator, I can now move all my add-ons to the aux battery and leave the main battery alone. I like that it disconnects the main battery when it reaches 12.8v. I had a battery maintainer cable on the main battery, but per the isolator diagram, it shows it on the aux battery, so did it that way and it ends up charging both batteries.

Finished up my aux battery install and LED strip engine bay add-on. Red wire-loom makes for contrast, but I might switch it back to black. My original LED engine bay lights were ok, used 2 Eagle eye LED in the front radiator frame, they fit perfectly(pain to put in). I just needed more light I use the Keyline 300amp Isolator for future upgrades down the road. H6 Interstate battery from Costco, MTA 0300839 positive bus bar, but will also be adding a 4-relay/12 fuse block, just need to make a mounting plate for it. Not finish with all the final routing, need to make it cleaner. Will probably also move the fuse that's hanging onto the back firewall. Just used the previous spot I had my fuse for my amp mounted. LED strips off And after turning them on...

So, as the parts came in, they sat around for a while(ok, a good while) finally got around to installing my dual setup. I picked up the Keyline Isolator 300amp(for future, friends trying to talk me into Overlanding.. haha) and AGM H6(Costco). The design for the battery terminal on the back of the isolator could use some redesign, or make it like their 140amp isolators. If you buy their kit, you get the right terminals to fit from the looks of it. I bought some copper tubing and made my own lugs to fit correctly on the back terminals.. I used some red wire-loom for positive cables, but, I might switch it out with black. I picked up MTA 0300839 fuse block to use on it. I did pick up a 4 Relay/12 Fuse holder, just need to figure where to mount it, most likely in the corner next to the aux battery on that corner bracket. I'm going to re-wire it using the more flexible silicon wires. I did go the sensor route with the negative cable(used 2AWG). My old man gave me 1AWG red/black welding cable, so used the 1AWG for the positive. I connected some leads to the aux battery so I'm able to plug it into a maintainer, comes out by the bottom front grill. I left some of slack on the main cables if I need to move/route them. I used 2 fuse, between the isolator and main/aux battery. I ordered some wire loom mounting clips to clean up that side wiring/cabling. Most likely move the fuse onto the firewall for a cleaner look. Don't mind that cable hanging down, it's going to get re-routed, it's for the LED strips.

https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/225685-add-bed-light-switch-to-truck-bed/

should be able to give you the location..

https://www.gmupfitter.com/body-builder-manuals/

Where you get it for that cheap.. too late for me.. but that's a steal!

Welcome! Yeah, they are either over $200 or they are out of stock. Just got lucky my search showed RockAuto and it was cheaper than the rest.

Not sure if you bought it already, but yes, the new one(blue color) is the 84448506. I bought mine off RockAuto, cheaper than what I saw on eBay and other gm parts store(online). On a side note, didn't even know about this thread, so much info on here I could have used as an alternate to the OEM switch.. just so happened to see the YouTube vid and went for it... sigh.. ACDELCO 84448506 Headlamp Switch $ 138.79

Installed the RC 30" Blackout single row curved LED light bar the other day. Still waiting on the OEM light switch with the fog light option to arrive so I can wire that in.Impressed with the light output. Had to do a little mod on the active shutters, backside of the grill and the bracket, but it worked out nicely. Going to swap the stainless steel bracket mounting bolts with some black stainless steel ones. They stick out against that black bracket. Should have packaged it with black bolts.

Went on vacation in the mountains and got some good snow. New tires handled pretty good. Love remote start, heated seats and heated steering wheel(when I bought it, was like, I don't need no stinking heated steering wheels!). Glad it came with it..

Interesting... would be a good selling point.

Agreed. Even that link mentions load variable plays a roll in your tire pressure. Hmmm 3k rotations, I'll have to give that a try. Always just did it per maintenance schedule.

When it stops raining and time, I might give this a try. Saw some YouTube vids on doing it this way.

Yeah, max load 3305@80psi cold is what is on the tire. I used this site to convert from OEM to new tire, and it states 45 psi. But that would be based on the load, since max load would be 3305@80psi. Max psi on my OEM tire stated 2337@44psi. https://tirepressure.com/tire-pressure-calculator

They actually inflated them to 45psi. On my OEM 22, it was at 35psi. The funny thing was the sticker they put on my window, they put recommended 35psi, but inflated them to 45psi

Picked up some RST 20" take-offs(eBay, claimed to only had 10/miles on it) and slapped on some new rubber. Went with 285/55R20, to keep as close to my OEM 285/45R22. Will use these for Fall/Winter and switch back to my 22s for Spring/Summer. Don't mine the bottom after picture, hasn't been washed all summer and it was taken at dusk right after install..

Let me know if you want the doc/link for how to do update and Sunny's share folder where he keeps updates. I just checked, there is one for Sept. Not sure what it fixes or updates. I can PM you it.