Everything posted by Barman84
Mine lost it at 58k. Got a free one under warranty had a whole 2 months left. They gave me utter hell as I have a lift and 35s that were installed by the dealer... I told them to pound sand and fix it or refund the cost of the lift and tires they did and pay for it with that. Needless to say say I got a new one. However, since that I upgraded my diff ratios to 4.10s from the 3.08s it had my trans temps seem to be way better. The issue is heat with these apparently.
I have aftermarket LED tails. We just got a ton of snow here in Washington state and now I have hyperflash... so i got some resistors as the lights still work just stupid hyper. Attached to green and black did one side only and still hyper flash. Anyone have any ideas? And yes I searched the forum and found nothing.
I’m running 2 50w by 20ohm resistors on each side hooked up to the black and green wires top and bottom bulb sockets. Did id they need to be ran in parralel and only to one socket??? I see where the wires run into the bottom and back out. So should they both be tied in here together? This is getting really annoying.
It’s hard to say on reception when I was stationed in Fort Worth I could pick up hd and regular channels just fine. Now that I’m stationed in Washington state I have trouble even picking up satellite radio. FM is a joke to unless you have zero trees around. I stream almost everything now anywaye. as for my wheels they ride exactly the same as my old setup and look way better. I had the same issue before just not as bad only when making left hand turns. I did switch from an MT tire to a hybrid as well so I’m wondering if that as anything to do with it.
I ran my ground wires to the ground in the door. From there I ran the spots to the cargo lamp fuse on the passenger side and the marker light wire goes to the fuse under the driver side for marker lights. I like the cargo switch better. I have extra light to the rear when loading stuff in the dark. Besides the lights don’t put out enough light to actually assist in backing up. I’d actually think they’d be annoying. That and I have an opt7 triple under my tailgate that puts out enough light and then some for backing up .
I have my abs fuse pulled for a good reason. When I swapped from a 20x9 wheel to a 20x12 every stupid round about or turn set off my abs like I was skidding... but I wasn’t it’s not fun to drive when your truck decides to randomly toss the brakes on. The dealer can’t fix it and it irritates me so it’s pulled until someone can give me a good fix. Bearings are all good abs sensors are all good. I have an email to a tuner to see if they can make it less sensitive... And I was playing around with the cluster. The 14s period don’t have the angle approach... so it’s always at 45 degrees. I was going to see what it takes to get it to work since it’s in the cluster.
Denali cluster I also have full function through Siri with the steering wheel controls. i did update the usb as well to the newer one to be in the safe side.
Just so everyone knows I followed chris’s Instructions and part numbers. My 14 1500 now has Apple car play and a Denali cluster. I shopped for a blue Denali cluster but couldn’t find a good deal on one. So I have everything but the radio skip play buttons switched over to gmc red as well. What I really like is I canceled my Sirius radio and went to streaming only on my phone for 3 bucks a month as well. Well biggest issue is Sirius was a pita when I tried switching from my old radio or to the new one...
04s aren’t direct injection 😉 the kotor pulls air straight to the head fuel is added inside the cylinder not at the intake valve... therefore you never get the intake valves cleaned by fuel passing over them just air and whatever crap is sucked into the intake from the cylinder head covers... the catch can catches that crap and trust me it builds up on the intake valves on DI motors. The original acadias all had stupid problems with this when they first rolled out with DI to the point they had to teach gm techs how to do a top end scrub to keep the cars on the road. But wait there’s more. Over time that intake build up will foul the injectors as well and you get to replace those to. If your truck has anything over 1k on it and no catch can do a good seafoam top end treatment first. Install catch can well it sits and then start her up and get rid of all the extra crap that is now gone.
You can buy the hood latch kit and run the wire to the bcm and thebdealer can RedLaser your truck for it. LTs and up if you don’t have it. The kit is around 80 plus whatever the dealer charges you. I suggest calling the dealer last around you and getting quotes. Some act stupid and will tel you they can’t do it.
3:23 and below gears you can get the ring adapter for the rear of the truck and use any gear above that for upgrade. However, you’ll need a whole new carrier for the front as there isn’t an adapter plate for the 8.25 front diff. So you could buy a new g80 for the front with new ring and pinion and be cool. i literally just dealt with this a year ago. I decided to upgrade both front and rear to after market diffs. And went with 4.10s from 3.08s. Either way you do it you’ll love the new added power you get from it.
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