Interesting mod. I’m waiting for my cluster to get in from Chris now. I’ve already got the hvac, lights, and 4x4 switch from a Sierra for under 40... I’m wondering if I can just get the less in my radio swapped over for the skip pause play. I like the red much better. Grew up gmc and Pontiac and this is my first Chevy. I pulled apart my old HVAC unit and man that was fun to say the least. Looking at the board those LEDs are in there really good.
4.10s. Here’s a shot of my dash from today. im going up a pretty good sized hill on I5 shut outside of LACEY in Washington yon state as well. Holding 6th around 1700 at 70. I have a 6” lift and 35s. Don’t mind the abs light I have the fuse pulled out. Dealer can’t figure out why my abs keeps kicking in when I go around turns so I just yanked it. However, I am running a full 12” wheel.
Supercharger or not your still going to toast your transmission from running a bigger tire set without regearing. It’s what made me do it got a freebie under warranty 😉. You’ve got 3.42s so the cost is going to be way cheaper. All you need is a gear set front and rear and bearings. Maybe 500-700 in parts. A good tech will charge 400-500 for labor front and rear. And you’re truck will be so much more happy. Hell I had a turd pull up next to me last night in a stock 16-18 z71 and try to race I said screw it. Next light he had to ask if I had performance mods done I was there first lifted truck that spanked his ass.
It might be just how they’ve mocked them up. I see nothing in the way that would keep them from binding up in the bed side. The way they mount mount I could see it may be an issue if the bed flexed from the cab and possibly bent the steps that’s about it. Once you put them up you’ll see it. However I’m sure they’re easy as pie to cut as they are aluminum. A dremel or a hacksaw well get you going quickly.
It was close to 3k for me. However that’s before they came out with the ring adapter for the 3.23 and lower feared trucks so probably more like 1800 now. However I upgraded my front and rear diffs instead of just using a basic g80. 4wheelparts did mine with a lifetime warranty on the gears and locker as long as I own the truck. Having broken some diffs in my life that in Iredell was worth anything over a mom and pop garage would save over a few hundred bucks. I usually keep trucks for 10 years or so so it’s well worth it to me.
Mathematically speaking I wasn’t going to drop money on a new gearing btw it was closer to 2800 3.23 and lower trucks requiring new carriers as well. So I upgraded both the front and rear to something just a little better than the g80. i wanted to be as close or closer to the high row package with 3.73s from the factory gearing wise. https://www.rocky-road.com/calculator.html with heavier tires and more air resistance to move on the highway having higher gears will help a lot. Before gearing my truck would constantly hunt gears on the highway with the lift and tires. After it doesn’t and pulling my trailer up hills still doesn’t. Also im no joke pulling over 20 on the highway and Pretty dang close to stock mileage city wise. Using the the calculator to be close to stock is 3.62s for you. I’m guessing you have an 8 speed with. 6.2. Even in my truck with a 6 speed. At 70 stock I was running 1725 rpm with 4.10s in right at 2k keep in mind the stall in these trucks is set to 1800-1900 so it’s going to be happiest towing if your running in that band while towing or a little over. Also my trans temps dropped significantly with the gearing. It takes less energy to get my truck moving. Trust me when I say it 4.10s would be way better in the long run. Especially if you decide to go from a 33 to a 35 as you can with a 6 inch lift.
Just sent all my stuff to Chris plus a denali cluster as well. So far so good on the customer service side. Can’t wait to get my stuff back to install it.
I pull a trailer from time to time with gear it’s around 7200 pounds. i have a 2014 LT with a 5.3. 35s and a 9” lift on 20x12s running a hybrid tire. However I’m also running 4.10s. Proof in the pudding I recently pcs’d to Fort Lewis from fort sill. Oklahoma to Tacoma Washington and pulled the trailer all the way here plus extra weight in my bed and cab. qith that being said I went up from 3.23s so it’s a huge improvement. With 33s on a 6” lift is probably still get 4.10s. The droveabilty will be so much better.
Sweet I’m sure it was typed wrong then lol. I can pm you a good email address
From everything I’ve read 16+ should but let’s see what they say.
Contacted you 5 days ago still patiently waiting for a reply.
My truck was a factory turd with 3.08s. My 35s sucked has mileagebso bad on the highway I said screw it. 4.10s and I’m getting better mileage city and highway. And my trans temps aren’t has high from putting so much strain on the power train to push the bigger wheel tire combo. 37s on 3.08s I’d be dropping it off as fast as I could.
I have the amp power steps and I also run an edge programmer full time. I have the splitter installed on my truck. From first hand experience the cheap 14 dollar ones won’t feed a signal past the original hub. Don’t ask me why but our trucks hate them. I’m guessing the signal is feed two way and the battery doesn’t like it. either my step sister would work or my programmer or nothing. Bought the cheap one amp has and everything works just fine.
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