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cino72

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Everything posted by cino72

  1. OEM ground cable seems to have resolved the problem I will know for sure in a day or two. They are on back order almost everywhere I would stay away from the knockoffs. I had an oem and knockoff on order the china version was poorly made. Thanks for the responses
  2. Thank You I believe I am going to swap out the main ground If I can find the part in stock anywhere.
  3. I started having issues that seem to be related to a grounding problem. I cleaned and secured the ground located on the frame behind the front passenger tire and the ground under the dash on the driver side that seems to be referred to as G218. I inspected the ground under the dash on the passenger side and it was clean and did not seem to have any noticeable problem. I was hoping someone could point me to other ground locations I should inspect or possibly anything else I should look at. Here are the issues I have had in order over the past 2 weeks. 1. I noticed the occasional reset happening and started having some slow starts. it was time to replace the battery and I noticed the battery caps had pushed up some so I replaced it with another AGM battery. 2 drove about 20 miles got out for about 15 min then drove another 10 miles I went to start the truck no lights no starter no anything. I pulled the key out and tried again the dash lights flickered I cussed tried a third time it started up just fine drove home about 30 min. 3 I cleaned the 2 known problem ground screws went for a 10 minute drive everything worked as expected 4 Drove about 30 minutes stopped for an hour then went for gas everything still working as expected. After getting gas I drove about 5 miles and started into a parking spot and the wheel jerked out of my hand. If i turned right or left the dash lights would flicker the wheel would jerk and things showed signs of a battery disconnect IE clock reset stabil trak popping up but the truck never died. I sat idling for about 10 min and the wheel would jerk when trying to turn. I decided to turn it off and restart the truck. It started as expected and all the issues cleared up enough for me to drive it home about 30 min. once home i started the truck 3 times with no noticeable problem. I have no mil light coming on but it is asking me to roll the windows up and down like it does when things have been reset Sorry its so long i try to provide as much as i can 2014 GMC Sierra 140k mostly kept in garage and driver a couple of times a week. TIA
  4. Thanks for the replies. I will try the reset procedure before i got to much further. I have not had a dead battery or anything recently
  5. 2014 sierra slt 4x4 The driver side HVAC is not getting cold but the passenger side is working as expected. The driver side is blowing warmish air like the actuator is partially closed\open. I was going to order the part but I cant figure out which part number is correct. I have seen reference to all three parts for this problem 15-74347 15-74348 15-74349 Tia
  6. Just wanted to ask before I dive into an unnecessary rabbit hole. 2014 sierra 5.3 105k Miles I drove an hour stopped and about 45 min later it wouldn't start. The Theft deterrent came up as it does occasionally. I pulled the key and tried to restart like normal except this time it didn't start. I tried to jump it off with no luck so I got a new battery since it seemed it was most likely issue. Now I replaced the battery and still got nothing. I tested the battery distribution block that sits on the battery and one of the 175 amp had no continuity. To get home i moved two cables (I think it was marked #2 & #3)over to the other 175 amp lug. it started up and I got it home but electrically things were not right. no infotainment system no forgotten key in ignition chime and maybe a couple other things I didn't notice. I have to assume I blew the fuse during the battery swap but I figured that once I moved cables to the working 175 amp lug that things would work as expected. I must have another blown fuse some where which surprises me but i guess its possible. can anyone give me a starting point or let me know what lugs/fuse controls what on the electrical system? This image shows dead fuse and maybe one that is suspect Thanks
  7. just an update from me. I drove the truck all day around town today and only had 1 instance of a harder down shift while turning into a parking lot. i am going out on a limb here but it seems i had the problem after dealer reprogrammed but after driving it all day it seemed to re learn or resolve the issue on its own. if I notice it happening again I will update but it was definitely hitting hard the day i got it back from dealer and not today so.... i'm not sure
  8. I noticed before the post. I drove the truck 1000k interstate so that doesnt count then i drove the truck maybe 4 times and a total of about 200 miles. and did not notice the hard shift until after i had the recalls done. maybe i just didn't notice them , maybe that was the first time it happened its just hard to say with out having more time behind the wheel.
  9. I have only owned 14 slt about 3 weeks I drove about 11 hours then off and on for a day or two and never noticed harsh downshift until today. The last time I had it out was to do some reprogramming for recalls. the first thing that came to mind was "what did they do during reprogram". it may just be a coincidence...
  10. not stealing the thread and im to new to even know what im talking about but i thought if you had the 8 inch with intellilink you could connect your android phone to it for navigation my understanding besides all the good and bad info i have seen 1. the turn by turn on star sucks no map and a monthly fee 2. the normal nav with maps and stuff is a different animal that has a module installed from the factory or after by the owner with a reprogram of the truck to be able to use the module sadly i don't even know what i have and wont know until next wed http://gm.oemdtc.com/3959/upgrading-an-io5-non-navigation-radio-to-an-io6-navigation-radio-2014-2015-chevrolet-silverado-gmc-sierra what he said /\
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