WHITESSTOWPIG

Spot on.4WD is an awesome thing to have since you can just lay into the converter and launch right from stall speed in 4hi then switch back to 2wd right after.This method is usually a half to a full second faster to 60mph in most cases and does allow a truck to be faster during most driving situations.The main penalty with 4WD is weight and drag on the motor which would slightly affect passing power.Its a give and take as with all things

I couldnt find a thread on this but I have experimented quite a bit on the best way to launch these trucks with interesting results.It takes some time to find the right method for each truck but here are my findings atleast pertaining to these trucks in 2WD and a relatively stock form.There was only .1sec difference between going WOT from idle with traction controls on and having to feather the gas from idle with them all off but there was almost full half second difference between OEM Continental All Seasons and Grabber UHP Summer tires.Some conclusions are that good tires and the factory traction controls are hard to beat but hopefully this testing will prove useful to someone looking to learn more about getting the best acceleration times out of there truck on the street Traction off with Stability off 3/4 throttle then WOT was fastest Traction off with Stability off rolling into 10mph WOT was .1sec slower Traction on with Tow Haul off WOT was .1sec slower Traction on with Tow Haul on WOT was .2sec slower 1500rpm brake torque rolling into WOT was .2sec slower Traction off with Stability off WOT on UHP tires was .5sec slower Traction off with Stability off WOT on OEM tires was .9sec slower Traction off with Tow Haul on spun hard all of 1st then bogged and upshifted early into 2nd

Towing capacity is based off the gear ratio, tire diameter, and the weight of the truck.When you add larger wheels without regearing the differential to match you mess with the final drive ratio which throws the speedometer out of sync and messes with all the shift points in the transmission.A mere 10lbs in wheel added weight can feel like 300lbs in payload and 26's probably add additional 40 lbs in wheel weight on each corner.All of this combined can make a transmission feel like your pulling 14,000 lbs when your really only pulling 9,000 lbs.The V6 models also do not have transmission coolers and that is another reason the towing capacity is lower.To summarize larger wheels cut down on your towing capacity and the life of your transmission no matter which way you cut it.If you keep them I would at the very least regear the differential to match and add a transmission cooler to the truck

With a lift and heavy 37's it wouldnt matter if you had a 6.2 its going to be a slug.It may not be what you want to hear but without regearing the differential for the taller tires there is no tuning out there that would ever come close to making enough of a difference to make you happy.After you correct the differential drive ratio you will want something like a Diablosport tuner to calibrate the speedometer and shift points.They have E85 tunes that will work really well with the 4.3

The bare bones workhorses from the early 90's to mid 2000's are some of the best trucks ever made.I have owned my fair share of them and our current trucks dont hold a candle to those in terms of durability.These trucks have gotten too large and there use of aluminum, electronic modules, and mechanical complexity to meet EPA standards is just too high for the average joe to maintain 25 years from now

These engines usually have some normal pushrod motor vibrations at idle but when V4 kicks on they will feel different and like an like an actual engine misfire.If what your feeling at idle is anything like when V4 kicks in then you likely have an actual engine misfire possibly the AFM lifer failure.If its only shaking your feeling at idle but the motor itself isnt actual misfiring it could be something simple like faulty motor mounts.I think there was a recall for the motor mounts related to vibrations if thats the case

Its pretty well know that to make a truck handle flatter you can do things like coilovers, lowering, or a rear sway bar but one thing that is often overlooked is the front end links.I have all of the above done to mine already and something as simple as front end links has still made a notable difference for me.Changing from the factory rubber/plastic end links to poly/solid steel units can really improve confidence in hustling a big truck around.Regardless if your truck is lowered, leveled, or lifted you should be able to benefit from this simple upgrade.Available for just over $20 just about anywhere and installs within 10min without even popping a wheel off.Enjoy guys

That photo was taken a really, really long time ago so I couldnt say exact mileage but it was only within 500miles of installing the can.You would be really surprised the large amounts of oil you can catch going into the engine if you wait until oil change intervals.

I have seen alot of guys upgrade there WT trim trucks from the factory vinyl wheel to a leather wheel.If by chance you happen to acquire a preowned wheel like I did for this retrofit make sure to use your original WT controls and wiring harness on the new wheel.Mine would neither light up nor activate cruise control installing it as is and it drove me nuts until I figured out the wheel was not playing well with the WT clock spring.Never seen this mentioned so hopefully this can save others the headache

I was always trying different things so I never bothered with pictures. Was alot of trial and error trying to find the right compromise but its all normal off the shelf stuff.Really its just the correct ones working together in combination that will make all the difference

All of these motors respond about the same to the same mods.Bolt ons arent going to do much for power until you open the motors and tune the ecus.If you want a bit more power get an exhaust the shorter the better and run E85 if you can tolerate the 12mpg in city.Jet Performance has some removable piggyback modules that will help a little with faster shifts and Range has some AFM modules that can keep cylinder deactivation from kicking on but thats about all you can really do without tanking your warranty.If dont need a warranty and really want to get serious with power boost is always the right answer

With lowering a single cab you have to keep in mind that even the best parts out there are all going to be intended for a 4 door because that is the vast majority out on the road.What parts you should use really depend on your use of the truck and how soft you can make the ride before it effects your use of the truck as a truck.If you use your truck for heavy work duty and riding around mostly loaded up its a little easier to make the ride tolerable even with sporty shocks meant for a 4door but if you ride around with an empty bed, on skinny tires, low on fuel, and with the spare tire out its going to ride like its on the rims.Every single cab ive had has been a little different and took a little playing around with parts before I was happy with the compromise in ride.Check out this thread as it might help :

Guys if anyone has a lowered RCSB and doesnt mind sacrificing a little payload capacity for a softer ride I urge you to read on.I struggled with ride quality issues for a long time trying many different mixes of parts and was never able to find answers.I am finally pretty happy with the ride and handling so hopefully this might help someone who may be fighting the same issues in the future. Vehicle : 2017 Silverado Regular Cab Short Bed 2WD Upfront : Belltech Coilovers set to 3.5 " drop and solid sway bar end links Rear : 5" Flip Kit , Rear Swaybar, Nitro 2 Shocks, Shock extenders, and Sulastic Shackles Leaf Springs : OEM pack with the rear of the overload cut down 6" before the axle Driveline : Rebalanced OEM driveshaft, 1/2" trans mount shim , 3 deg axle shim Wheels : OEM 20 " Wheels and Continental Tires at 30psi This setup has been the best compromise between looks and handling for me.It is very smooth and only jarring with deep potholes same as a stock truck.Drive line angle is shimmed within .02 and vibration is only minimally present at 75mph diminishing at both slower and faster speeds.On rims I have tried 20" or larger running 30psi or lower in the tires and keeping the spare tire in place for ballast weight behind the axle always yielded the best results.The more tire you put on the road or ballast weight you put behind the axle the smoother the ride was and the less vibration experienced at speed.Hopefully this helps someone someday

While most Regular Cabs now a days are fleet vehicles and work horses a few of us still use them as cruisers like many use to in the 90's.They look pretty killer lowered but the ride can become extremely harsh with vibrations experienced throughout.This is mainly because of the stiff rear suspension and light body especially present in short beds with the smaller capacity fuel tanks.I have personally been battling this issue since day one of ownership and figured I would post what my current suspensio since there seems to be alot of street trucks who wouldnt mind a softer ride Vehicle : 2017 Silverado Regular Cab Short Bed 2WD Upfront : Belltech Coilovers set to 3.5 " drop and solid sway bar end links Rear : 5" Flip Kit , Rear Swaybar, Nitro 2 Shocks, Shock extenders, and Sulastic Shackles Leaf Springs : OEM pack with the rear of the overload cut down 6" before the axle Driveline : Rebalanced OEM driveshaft, 1/2" trans mount shim , 3 deg axle shim Wheels : OEM 20 " Wheels and Continental Tires at 30psi This setup has been the best compromise between looks and handling for me.It is very smooth and only jarring with deep potholes same as a stock truck.Drive line angle is shimmed within .02 and vibration is only minimally present at 75mph diminishing at both slower and faster speeds.On rims I have tried 20" or larger running 30psi or lower in the tires and keeping the spare tire in place for ballast weight behind the axle always yielded the best results.The more tire you put on the road or ballast weight you put behind the axle the smoother the ride was and the less vibration experienced at speed.Hopefully this helps someone someday