WHITESSTOWPIG

Spot on.4WD is an awesome thing to have since you can just lay into the converter and launch right from stall speed in 4hi then switch back to 2wd right after.This method is usually a half to a full second faster to 60mph in most cases and does allow a truck to be faster during most driving situations.The main penalty with 4WD is weight and drag on the motor which would slightly affect passing power.Its a give and take as with all things

I couldnt find a thread on this but I have experimented quite a bit on the best way to launch these trucks with interesting results.It takes some time to find the right method for each truck but here are my findings atleast pertaining to these trucks in 2WD and a relatively stock form.There was only .1sec difference between going WOT from idle with traction controls on and having to feather the gas from idle with them all off but there was almost full half second difference between OEM Continental All Seasons and Grabber UHP Summer tires.Some conclusions are that good tires and the factory traction controls are hard to beat but hopefully this testing will prove useful to someone looking to learn more about getting the best acceleration times out of there truck on the street Traction off with Stability off 3/4 throttle then WOT was fastest Traction off with Stability off rolling into 10mph WOT was .1sec slower Traction on with Tow Haul off WOT was .1sec slower Traction on with Tow Haul on WOT was .2sec slower 1500rpm brake torque rolling into WOT was .2sec slower Traction off with Stability off WOT on UHP tires was .5sec slower Traction off with Stability off WOT on OEM tires was .9sec slower Traction off with Tow Haul on spun hard all of 1st then bogged and upshifted early into 2nd

Towing capacity is based off the gear ratio, tire diameter, and the weight of the truck.When you add larger wheels without regearing the differential to match you mess with the final drive ratio which throws the speedometer out of sync and messes with all the shift points in the transmission.A mere 10lbs in wheel added weight can feel like 300lbs in payload and 26's probably add additional 40 lbs in wheel weight on each corner.All of this combined can make a transmission feel like your pulling 14,000 lbs when your really only pulling 9,000 lbs.The V6 models also do not have transmission coolers and that is another reason the towing capacity is lower.To summarize larger wheels cut down on your towing capacity and the life of your transmission no matter which way you cut it.If you keep them I would at the very least regear the differential to match and add a transmission cooler to the truck

With a lift and heavy 37's it wouldnt matter if you had a 6.2 its going to be a slug.It may not be what you want to hear but without regearing the differential for the taller tires there is no tuning out there that would ever come close to making enough of a difference to make you happy.After you correct the differential drive ratio you will want something like a Diablosport tuner to calibrate the speedometer and shift points.They have E85 tunes that will work really well with the 4.3

The bare bones workhorses from the early 90's to mid 2000's are some of the best trucks ever made.I have owned my fair share of them and our current trucks dont hold a candle to those in terms of durability.These trucks have gotten too large and there use of aluminum, electronic modules, and mechanical complexity to meet EPA standards is just too high for the average joe to maintain 25 years from now

These engines usually have some normal pushrod motor vibrations at idle but when V4 kicks on they will feel different and like an like an actual engine misfire.If what your feeling at idle is anything like when V4 kicks in then you likely have an actual engine misfire possibly the AFM lifer failure.If its only shaking your feeling at idle but the motor itself isnt actual misfiring it could be something simple like faulty motor mounts.I think there was a recall for the motor mounts related to vibrations if thats the case

Its pretty well know that to make a truck handle flatter you can do things like coilovers, lowering, or a rear sway bar but one thing that is often overlooked is the front end links.I have all of the above done to mine already and something as simple as front end links has still made a notable difference for me.Changing from the factory rubber/plastic end links to poly/solid steel units can really improve confidence in hustling a big truck around.Regardless if your truck is lowered, leveled, or lifted you should be able to benefit from this simple upgrade.Available for just over $20 just about anywhere and installs within 10min without even popping a wheel off.Enjoy guys

That photo was taken a really, really long time ago so I couldnt say exact mileage but it was only within 500miles of installing the can.You would be really surprised the large amounts of oil you can catch going into the engine if you wait until oil change intervals.

I have seen alot of guys upgrade there WT trim trucks from the factory vinyl wheel to a leather wheel.If by chance you happen to acquire a preowned wheel like I did for this retrofit make sure to use your original WT controls and wiring harness on the new wheel.Mine would neither light up nor activate cruise control installing it as is and it drove me nuts until I figured out the wheel was not playing well with the WT clock spring.Never seen this mentioned so hopefully this can save others the headache

I was always trying different things so I never bothered with pictures. Was alot of trial and error trying to find the right compromise but its all normal off the shelf stuff.Really its just the correct ones working together in combination that will make all the difference

All of these motors respond about the same to the same mods.Bolt ons arent going to do much for power until you open the motors and tune the ecus.If you want a bit more power get an exhaust the shorter the better and run E85 if you can tolerate the 12mpg in city.Jet Performance has some removable piggyback modules that will help a little with faster shifts and Range has some AFM modules that can keep cylinder deactivation from kicking on but thats about all you can really do without tanking your warranty.If dont need a warranty and really want to get serious with power boost is always the right answer

With lowering a single cab you have to keep in mind that even the best parts out there are all going to be intended for a 4 door because that is the vast majority out on the road.What parts you should use really depend on your use of the truck and how soft you can make the ride before it effects your use of the truck as a truck.If you use your truck for heavy work duty and riding around mostly loaded up its a little easier to make the ride tolerable even with sporty shocks meant for a 4door but if you ride around with an empty bed, on skinny tires, low on fuel, and with the spare tire out its going to ride like its on the rims.Every single cab ive had has been a little different and took a little playing around with parts before I was happy with the compromise in ride.Check out this thread as it might help :

Guys if anyone has a lowered RCSB and doesnt mind sacrificing a little payload capacity for a softer ride I urge you to read on.I struggled with ride quality issues for a long time trying many different mixes of parts and was never able to find answers.I am finally pretty happy with the ride and handling so hopefully this might help someone who may be fighting the same issues in the future. Vehicle : 2017 Silverado Regular Cab Short Bed 2WD Upfront : Belltech Coilovers set to 3.5 " drop and solid sway bar end links Rear : 5" Flip Kit , Rear Swaybar, Nitro 2 Shocks, Shock extenders, and Sulastic Shackles Leaf Springs : OEM pack with the rear of the overload cut down 6" before the axle Driveline : Rebalanced OEM driveshaft, 1/2" trans mount shim , 3 deg axle shim Wheels : OEM 20 " Wheels and Continental Tires at 30psi This setup has been the best compromise between looks and handling for me.It is very smooth and only jarring with deep potholes same as a stock truck.Drive line angle is shimmed within .02 and vibration is only minimally present at 75mph diminishing at both slower and faster speeds.On rims I have tried 20" or larger running 30psi or lower in the tires and keeping the spare tire in place for ballast weight behind the axle always yielded the best results.The more tire you put on the road or ballast weight you put behind the axle the smoother the ride was and the less vibration experienced at speed.Hopefully this helps someone someday

While most Regular Cabs now a days are fleet vehicles and work horses a few of us still use them as cruisers like many use to in the 90's.They look pretty killer lowered but the ride can become extremely harsh with vibrations experienced throughout.This is mainly because of the stiff rear suspension and light body especially present in short beds with the smaller capacity fuel tanks.I have personally been battling this issue since day one of ownership and figured I would post what my current suspensio since there seems to be alot of street trucks who wouldnt mind a softer ride Vehicle : 2017 Silverado Regular Cab Short Bed 2WD Upfront : Belltech Coilovers set to 3.5 " drop and solid sway bar end links Rear : 5" Flip Kit , Rear Swaybar, Nitro 2 Shocks, Shock extenders, and Sulastic Shackles Leaf Springs : OEM pack with the rear of the overload cut down 6" before the axle Driveline : Rebalanced OEM driveshaft, 1/2" trans mount shim , 3 deg axle shim Wheels : OEM 20 " Wheels and Continental Tires at 30psi This setup has been the best compromise between looks and handling for me.It is very smooth and only jarring with deep potholes same as a stock truck.Drive line angle is shimmed within .02 and vibration is only minimally present at 75mph diminishing at both slower and faster speeds.On rims I have tried 20" or larger running 30psi or lower in the tires and keeping the spare tire in place for ballast weight behind the axle always yielded the best results.The more tire you put on the road or ballast weight you put behind the axle the smoother the ride was and the less vibration experienced at speed.Hopefully this helps someone someday

Headers especially shortys and bolt ons are going to do nothing on the 4.3 except remove weight and change sound.There is an engine segment on YouTube where they test the new 5.3 on the engine stand in stock form then with a slew of mods including long tube headers and it did not care at all.The only thing that woke the thing up at all was a giant shot of nitrous.Despite what marketing leads us to believe about headers they do nothing for most modern engines until you change the camshaft.The best thing you can do for a 4.3 is to run E85 and get a transmission tune IMO

There are a few videos floating around of single cabs with the new gen V6 running door to door with intake/ tune/ header previous gen 5.3 and 6.0 swapped single cabs.They are honestly pretty impressive 6 cylinders considering no one makes anything at all for them.Yeah the new gen 5.3 are a little peppier but its still the lowest performing 8 cylinder on the market right now so thats not really saying much.If you are worried about performance and are somehow blown away by the 5.3 over the V6 I would say your butt is just way too sensitive because its splitting hairs IMO

Lots of guys wonder about these but never pull the trigger well I installed these in a RCSB that is lowered 3/5 to soften up the factory rear leaf springs and the difference was almost nothing.These are very simple in design replacing the factory solid shackle with what is essentially a damper so any Silverado lifted, dropped, or even stock height with a factory shackle geometry should be able to benefit from these.That being said I have felt bigger differences in ride quality with simple $80 shock changes than I have with these $440 shackles.The only minor improvement is in very slow speed vibrations under 30mph.Anything over 30mph with uneven payment, bumps, or pot holes the difference is disappointing. Hopefully if your on the fence about these you will come across this and consider spending your money on something that will make a difference.Just my own findings you guys of course are welcome to purchase a set to see for yourselves

So far on these trucks I have tried tuning, bigger throttle body, adjusting the sensor on the peddle, and last but not least the paint stick trick.Everything improved throttle response slightly but there was always a present delay and bog before taking off that nothing seemed to cure.This is because no matter what you do the ecu is always going to command less throttle angle for a given pedal angle.I can only assume this is to keep from squeeling the tires at every stoplight and wasting a bunch of gas.The only thing that fixed this problem for me was a throttle controller.There are a bunch of them out there but what I never liked about them for one was the $300 price, that most couldnt be adjusted on the fly without causing problems, and also that when the throttle controllers failed just like a faulty TPS sensor they can immobilize a trucks throttle which can be dangerous.I ended up taking a gamble on a $150 throttle controller from Wind booster and it did everything that I needed, could be changed anytime on the fly while driving, and the moment you pull the wire on it the controller is no longer doing anything and the truck drives %100 like stock.If the paint stick trick doesnt quite do it for you I highly recommend trying this.They are on Ebay for around $150 but I picked one up on a $120 Ali Express sale https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33048178516.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.78a84c4d5gVKzA https://www.ebay.com/itm/Throttle-Response-Controller-for-Chevrolet-Sierra-1500-Silverado-GMC-Sierra-1500/303516709242?hash=item46ab01717a:g:nSoAAOSwdHtecJAg

I like my 4.3 but neither it nor the 5.3 on E85 even in a regular cab would touch a stock crew cab 6.2.I dont say this to start a debate but rather because I know the numbers and its not even close.The biggest downside with the V6 is mainly related to configuration because it is the base motor and you cant get them with the 8speed max tow packages.Those packages offer better engine ratios that really wake up these trucks alot.Also if your a tinkerer like myself it doesnt really matter if you have a 1000 hp big block or weedeater for a powertrain because you will always want to do mods and make things your own.Things like the built in throttle delay, sluggish shift pattern, flapper valve exhaust, chevy shake, oil consumption, and annoying cylinder deactivation plagued all the Silverados.Once you remedy most of those niggles they are all different vehicles to drive.

Had mine for a few years now and it is definitely worth the price if a tuner is not an option because of warranty.Cylinder deactivation can be really annoying to drive with IMO.One thing about the modules though is they discharge the battery ever so slightly anytime they are left plugged in.That being said even after having the truck sit weeks at a time with the module in it never gave me a starting problem until 3 years in when the battery would no longer take a charge.Warranty covered the battery ofcourse and I still use and love the module but its just something to be aware of if your vehicle sits for long periods of time

Wanted to share some tips for guys on here with lowered Regular Cabs looking for a smoother ride.After trying the typical things like more weight in the bed and lower tire pressures I decided the ride was still too stiff so I tried going from stock front shocks with 3" drop spacers to full Belltech coilovers and it was expensive but did nothing at all for ride quality.The biggest improvements were all in the rear going from the Belltech SP Street Performance shocks everyone on here runs to Belltechs Nitro 2 shocks instead.This made a big difference in my RCSB and if you want it even softer rear shock extenders with the Nitro 2s are even better

Well I hate to be that guy to have have actually tried this but I have put this exact sensor in two different GM cars a 2017 Silverado and a 2017 Terrain out of curiousity.Now I dont claim to know what it does, How exactly it does it, nor if there is a measurable difference in power on a dyno but for a fact there is a difference in the driving with it on.This is parking both cars then swapping between the stock and Jet sensor back forth many many times and there is always a difference with it on.The best way I could describe is it feels like it tricks the car into having a little more timing and snap at the bottom end but thats it.I would agree either way it is a waste of money because when the cars go WOT the computer will step in to pull back the knock and then there is likely no power difference at all.Then again this type of mod is really no different than throttle controllers and most bolt ons put onto stock trucks.Most of it will make no difference at all in actual power and probably run worse without a tune but people spend the money anyway because it changes the driving experience.Just my .02

When you lower a truck with only struts they unwind the stock spring 3" so the suspension travel becomes very short and stiff.They make the drop struts real soft to try and counter this but moving a spring location 3" up or 3" down on the same strut is going to change its effectiveness.The idea with a coilover is to incorporate a much shorter softer spring for the suspension to behave like OEM.The second coil underneath the mail spring is there so when you unwind the main spring to adjust the height the the lower spring adjusts with it so the overall spring rate remains the same.Essentially the advantage is you can adjust the height of your truck 1mm at a time all the way up to 3" of drop while keeping the suspension behavior exactly the same.I like them and would recommend them to someone who is into sporty handling or who wants to fine tune there height perfectly but they are not good value for money for the average joe

Have read a few guys mentioned these but no definitive feedback on them.I installed them to replace a stock assembly with a 3" drop coil spacer installed hoping to improve the ride on a RCSB.The stock assembly with the drop coil spacer was very,very stiff but handled incredible.According to instructions if you adjusting the coilovers anything over 154mm ( 3" drop setting ) ride quality will begin to diminish.After adjusting them to the max recommend 3" setting I really only got 2" - 2.5" drop out of it so far.I have not adjusted further because I am giving time for the suspension to settle some more and really want to keep as good of a ride as possible.Meanwhile here are some slight negatives to consider if you are looking at these - They are $630+ ( $530 with promo on Summit) - Over 3" of drop adjustment ride quality suffers - Wheels have to be off ground to adjust coil height Aside from the negatives the ride was better and the handling was still very good but overall I think money would be better spent splitting the difference on a set of $100 Belltech drop struts that retain the stock coil springs.For the money I cant see how you could go wrong with that route.Anyway hopefully this info helps someone in the market