Damn they take stealership to a new level. I would assume it is just a quick swap and no programming is necessary. You already had a functioning camera so you should be able to just swap in a new one. Maybe someone else knows a reason why it would need some computer changes but I can’t.
Thank you for the article. It always amazes me how serious people take their brand loyalty. If Chevy built the Wranglers, people would applaud them and the new Gladiator. But since it is another brand, it gets pooped on. Maybe rightfully so here on a chevy truck site. But I dont think so. I for one have owned multiple jeeps (srt8 cherokee with cam and vortech supercharger), multiple chevy trucks (have my lowered 2016 standard cab short bed and a 1970 C10 with big block on bags with short bed as I write this), ram 2500 lifted with cummins, and many others. All had pros and cons. As a Jeep fan, I love the new gladiator concept. I do think it would have looked better with a slightly shorter bed. More inline with the H2T that someone mentioned above. But I know they had to make it usable so people could haul something. I do agree with the above comment that once lifted with larger tires, they are going to turn heads. I have already gone out and priced a new rubicon with basically all options. But I want to wait for more details on the diesel. Almost 450 lbs torque in a Jeep will be amazing.
I can only find one maker of the 3.73 gears unfortunately. Yukon. I was hoping for AAM or something a little better. I did find a listing that says you have to run the ring gear spacer if you are coming from a 3.08 or 3.23 gear on the 9.5 or 9.76 12 bolts. See the link below. https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-23993167-gm-9-5b-gm9-76-12-bolt-ring-gear-spacer.html Wish someone had done this change already would chime in. I will start searching the forum now. I am sure there is a thread somewhere.
By looking at some websites, it looks like my truck has the 9.5" 12 bolt rear. It looks like it has 33 spline axles as well which is cool if true. Can anyone confirm that is the ring and pinion we have and are there any complications with doing gears in these trucks? I read a thread here somewhere (cant find it now to reread) that mentioned having to use a spacer or something. That may have been for a different year though.
I know. I am looking for replacement 22’s now that are as light as I can find and still like the design. You definitely need need to open a wheel shop as many wheels as you have gone through. I think your truck would look awesome on 22’s though.
Assume those are codes for the rear end? I thought I read a thread of yours where you were talking about swapping gears?? It seemed like the thread died but assumed you went through with the change.
Looks to be relocation brackets. But they are mcgaughys shocks too. Not sure if they are stock length or shorter. The previous owner had NOT removed the bump stop brackets. They took the rubber stops off and left metal brackets. At least the professional shop in south florida he had do the drop didnt remove it. But I did. (they also never reinstalled the rearmost 4 bed bolts which was causing a ton of rattles. Took me a while to figure that one out. Dont know why they removed them in the first place)
Have a 2016 rcsb with 5.3. Lew tune. Cat back and CAI. Unfortunately it has 3.08 gears and lacks some grunt down low. I am running 22's with 285/45/22's which end up being 32 inches tall. My buddy does gears basically for a living and I can get gears done pretty cheap. I was thinking going to 3.73's. But wondering if anyone has done a swap on a similar setup and what gears you went to (and if you wished you had done a different ratio now)? I have read a bunch of threads about gear swaps but everything I found was lifted guys with A/T tires.
I have a Mcgaughy kit on my 2016 rcsb. Dont know the part number the previous owner used but it has spindles, struts/springs, rear flip kit with their multi position hanger and rear shocks. Looks like it comes out to a 4/6 drop. It was 4.5/6 but I ended up adding a 1/2 inch of lift to the front because it was a little too low and had more of a rake than I wanted. The rear just has the flip kit with their hanger. The suspension is a little stiff all the way around. But especially the rear. Not sure if it is the leaf or shock or both. Anyone made changes to a basic setup like mine to gain a softer ride. Primarily in the rear. I was thinking maybe taking a leaf out of the rear (the overload maybe?). Or would it need to be replaced altogether? Any other advice is welcome.
Not sure if it was said but you can call her insurance as well. OR allow your insurance to coordinate. I have done it both ways. Hopefully dash cam shows what you need. But most people are willing to accept responsibility when they are at fault. The exception is when you hit them and they start getting sue happy. I have a dash cam in my vehicle but really need to get one for the other cars in my family.
HP tuners is just like the others mentioned here in that it flashes a tune into the trucks computer then you remove the box. So it is exactly like the others in that regard. I did a intune with a Lew custom tune. To be honest, he gives some slight improvements on power down low over the canned tune but it just isn’t worth the extra money. At least for the 87 octane tune I did. I raced a buddy in his stock avalanche yesterday and he stayed on my bumper the entire time. I am VERY disappointed. If I could go back and spend the money differently I would do the Hp tuners. I am a computer programmer and a geek in general and don’t mind digging in and reading about all the changes HP allows you to do. It could easily be overwhelming for some. I have a couple friends who I went through the tuning process with using Hp tuners on ones ctsv and the others 2010 Camaro ss twin turbo. So I have a little exposure to it already. If you you get overwhelmed with having to do that research and learn the computer program used to make changes, better to stick with the canned options.
I use only vled bulbs in my vehicles. Personal preference. I just got a promo email from them if you want to use a discount code. Vleds.com Discount code NY10 gets 10% off any order. Code NY20 gets 20% off orders over $200. I have have their high output reverse bulbs in my 16. My tails are tinted but I still get a lot of output. I can only imagine what they would be like without tint. Although I did have them in my 2015 ram 2500 and the output was amazing. Not sure how the reflector design differs from the Chevy. They also have have a little led bar that mounts at the top of the license plate. Almost like the top rail of a license plate frame. Wouldn’t know it is there but is super, super bright. You would just wire in to the back of your trailer plugs or any other place you wanted to grab signal. And no cutting holes in your bumper. http://www.vleds.com/shop-products/lpr/lpr-reverse-72-w.html
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