I didn’t have any luck getting to the pricing some here were able to get. All the dealers advertise prices I would have been happy with but when you contact them they are just being sneaky and in my opinion openly dishonest and listing prices with every rebate possible knowing very few if any buyers can actually get every rebate they add in. There is a local dealer who has some leftover 2018 Denali 1500’s but they are all black which I swore I would never buy another black vehicle. Maybe those advertised prices are real since they are now almost 2 years old now. I am still looking.
Someone above mentioned ‘not on an at4’ Are the AT4 package trucks that rare that they will not deal on them as much? All dealers in my area have multiple AT4 trucks on the lot from 19. I wouldn’t think they are rare enough to demand any more than any other model.
Thanks for all the info @Cowpie found another at4 that is close to me and has a slightly higher msrp but about the same ‘sale’ price. Guess I need to get into the dealerships. Have an infection in my leg and was trying to stay off it till it heals. I have a feeling that when I get in there, the advertised sale price will include discounts I am not eligible for. But maybe I will be pleasantly surprised.
Looking at a 19 at4. This would be my second new vehicle in my life. Always purchase vehicles that are a couple years old and let someone else take a lot of the depreciation hit. I know this is a pricing thread and not necessarily a instructional thread but can anyone give me some input on how to get the best deal through Gm??? Just as an example, I know for Jeep, you can sign up for their ‘tread lightly’ organization for like $100 a year +/- and it gets you a discount of 1% off a new Jeep. Anyone have any suggestions??
Thanks for the info. I am in the same area as you. Looking at a 19 AT4 now. Would like to at least get the bumper and other front critical areas done for rocks since this is the most expensive vehicle I have ever thought about buying. Want to protect it for sure.
Damn they take stealership to a new level. I would assume it is just a quick swap and no programming is necessary. You already had a functioning camera so you should be able to just swap in a new one. Maybe someone else knows a reason why it would need some computer changes but I can’t.
Thank you for the article. It always amazes me how serious people take their brand loyalty. If Chevy built the Wranglers, people would applaud them and the new Gladiator. But since it is another brand, it gets pooped on. Maybe rightfully so here on a chevy truck site. But I dont think so. I for one have owned multiple jeeps (srt8 cherokee with cam and vortech supercharger), multiple chevy trucks (have my lowered 2016 standard cab short bed and a 1970 C10 with big block on bags with short bed as I write this), ram 2500 lifted with cummins, and many others. All had pros and cons. As a Jeep fan, I love the new gladiator concept. I do think it would have looked better with a slightly shorter bed. More inline with the H2T that someone mentioned above. But I know they had to make it usable so people could haul something. I do agree with the above comment that once lifted with larger tires, they are going to turn heads. I have already gone out and priced a new rubicon with basically all options. But I want to wait for more details on the diesel. Almost 450 lbs torque in a Jeep will be amazing.
I can only find one maker of the 3.73 gears unfortunately. Yukon. I was hoping for AAM or something a little better. I did find a listing that says you have to run the ring gear spacer if you are coming from a 3.08 or 3.23 gear on the 9.5 or 9.76 12 bolts. See the link below. https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-23993167-gm-9-5b-gm9-76-12-bolt-ring-gear-spacer.html Wish someone had done this change already would chime in. I will start searching the forum now. I am sure there is a thread somewhere.
By looking at some websites, it looks like my truck has the 9.5" 12 bolt rear. It looks like it has 33 spline axles as well which is cool if true. Can anyone confirm that is the ring and pinion we have and are there any complications with doing gears in these trucks? I read a thread here somewhere (cant find it now to reread) that mentioned having to use a spacer or something. That may have been for a different year though.
I know. I am looking for replacement 22’s now that are as light as I can find and still like the design. You definitely need need to open a wheel shop as many wheels as you have gone through. I think your truck would look awesome on 22’s though.
Assume those are codes for the rear end? I thought I read a thread of yours where you were talking about swapping gears?? It seemed like the thread died but assumed you went through with the change.
Looks to be relocation brackets. But they are mcgaughys shocks too. Not sure if they are stock length or shorter. The previous owner had NOT removed the bump stop brackets. They took the rubber stops off and left metal brackets. At least the professional shop in south florida he had do the drop didnt remove it. But I did. (they also never reinstalled the rearmost 4 bed bolts which was causing a ton of rattles. Took me a while to figure that one out. Dont know why they removed them in the first place)
Have a 2016 rcsb with 5.3. Lew tune. Cat back and CAI. Unfortunately it has 3.08 gears and lacks some grunt down low. I am running 22's with 285/45/22's which end up being 32 inches tall. My buddy does gears basically for a living and I can get gears done pretty cheap. I was thinking going to 3.73's. But wondering if anyone has done a swap on a similar setup and what gears you went to (and if you wished you had done a different ratio now)? I have read a bunch of threads about gear swaps but everything I found was lifted guys with A/T tires.
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