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6_2LTZ

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About 6_2LTZ

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  1. I don't think the PPV Tahoe has a special drive shaft compared to a regular Tahoe or Silverado. It's just shorter overall and can handle higher speed. If you look at a 3500hd Crew Cab Long Box it has a 2 piece shaft thats 116" long. If you want to go faster you will need to change your drive shaft. Since it already has a 5" diameter shaft, a larger diameter shaft may not clear. I'd suggest checking with a driveshaft shop to see what they could do.
  2. Unfortunately it seems like you have one of the longest possible driveshaft combinations with 2wd crew cab. Based on the critical speed calculations, it has a top speed of ~108mph. Which is the point where everyone fears their driveshaft will blow up. Here's a video of a two piece drive shaft: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4k8Qa474I1U
  3. Every time this question comes around pandemonium erupts. I'm amazed that we got to the second page before being told to think about the children. For once I'd like a discussion on the real mechanics of why a speed limiter is in place. It took me way too long to find solid info one day so hopefully if I summarize what I found out maybe someone with actual knowledge can clarify it further. My understanding is the driveshaft is the weak point when it comes to top speed. The critical speed of the driveshaft occurs long before the truck tops out. (It's possible in trucks with a shorter drive shaft that air resistance could the critical factor in top speed.) A crew cab RWD truck is at a disadvantage due to having a longer drive shaft than the 4WD models. Here's a video of a straight cab standard box truck doing 120mph without issue. https://youtu.be/P32WCFcIzR4?t=141 Here's the driveshaft from that truck: https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-99708-946-306.aspx Specs: Diameter 3.5", Length 67.71", Material: Steel, Thickness: .083" Put those specs into this calculator here: http://www.wallaceracing.com/driveshaftspeed.php and you get ~5500rpm as the critical speed. A 6L80 ratio in fourth gear is 1.152, 3.08 rear end, I'll guess an 32" tire, and in the video the engine is turning at ~4500 rpm. Plug all that info here: https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/potential_speed_calculator.html and we get a speed of 122mph. This confirm the tranmission gear. To calculate the driveshaft rpm take the engine rpm divided by the gear ratio. In this case 4500/1.152 = 3906 rpm. Under the calculated critical speed. To calculate the theoretical limit just multiple the critical RPM by the gear ratio to get engine rpm. In this 5500rpm is critical so multiplying it by the 4th gear will put us over the engine rpm limit. We'll use fifth gear instead. 5500*.852= 4686. Pop that in the calculator and we get 166mph with a 3.08 rear end. Based on researching the dorman site, it seems that there are many driveshaft combinations based on engine size, cab size, bed length, axle ratio, and drive type. The thickness can differ, material, and diameter for each model. Each truck will then have a slightly different critical speed based its' driveshaft.
  4. I'm about the same age and in the same situation as you. I just paid off a 2014 and always said I'd keep it for years. Well, four months later I traded it in for a new one. How could I justify it? After a couple thousand dollars out of warranty repairs, tires that needed replacing, drivers side A/C that quit, and a torn seat I had enough. Going from a '14 5.3 double cab to an '18 crew cab 6.2 didn't require much convincing. With 60k miles I got 2/3rds what I paid for the '14 on trade. The small refinements from the '14 to the '18 make the truck significantly nicer to drive. The 5.3 was a dog while the 6.2 feels like a sports car and gets better mileage. In my experience I wouldn't get a first year model truck again. I think I'd wait until a mid cycle refresh or last model year before I traded again.
  5. You do realize new ones go for for "75 cents on the dollar."
  6. This is great! Hope it goes well. My dealer charged $300 an injector. Luckily I only needed two. This may come in handy down the road.
  7. It's the bracket for the jack that's under the seat.
  8. Here's the stock bracket for the jack on my '14. Hard to believe this is possible. It's under the seat, inside the cab.
  9. I never had any issues filling but I did have one with water. I washed the truck and then it froze. I could barely get a gallon pumped when in the time it should've been filled. Luckily I didn't desperately need gas, and found a garage to park it in for a few hours to thaw out. I'm very disappointed with the system considering I've never had an issue like that with a Ford.
  10. I have experience with three of them and there was never any issues. Great little car for just getting around. Used ones seem to be going pretty cheap. If insurance is cheap it might just be worth it as a daily driver.
  11. Truxedo Lo Pro was nice and water tight for me. Never had any issues, loved everything about it. Best value for price I think. Traded it for the rolling GM cover (rebranded revolver x2) and while it's more secure, stronger to set things on, the buckles to secure it open broke, and I made my own system to secure it. It also covers a large part of the rear window when rolled up. More water seems to get in going through the car wash, but that may just be the tailgate. If the new truck didn't come with the rev x2 I certainly wouldn't pay the premium over the truxedo lo pro.
  12. My 5.3 averaged 15.5L/100km over the 100,000km that I owned it. 4x4, heavier LT tires, no air dam, 3.42 rear end. Probably 50/50 city and highway driving. How much have you driven? What are you getting for mileage on the highway? 18.0L/100km isn't wildly high if you factor in winter gas, idling, and city driving. The best I'd get in the summer was around 12.5 to 13L/100km over 650km. I don't think break in has much to do with anything. For the two trucks I've owned I didn't see much of a difference throughout the life of them.
  13. Mine is doing the same thing. Had a 2014 5.3 that was 99% accurate. My 2018 6.2 dic mpg is off by about 10.5%. It can't be from the tire size being off because I checked my trip odometer vs google maps and it's accurate to within 99%. I don't know if there is a fix for it. Doesn't make sense for it to be there if it's so inaccurate.
  14. I found a topic from a few years ago. Seems like other members can back up my claim and there is nothing new for 2018.
  15. Thank you. Yes, I understand this. I'm just stating the differences I'm experiencing in my 6.2L MAX TRAILERING package truck vs my 5.3L 6 speed truck. Which is on topic with the original post. It's quite obvious Mr. Truckguy82 does not have a 2018 6.2L with the MAX TRAILERING package. He would not find my experience so incredulous if he owned one himself. I just drove (UNLOADED) two 1000 mile days in the last week and not once did the transmission reach 190F. I don't think it even reached 180F. Ambient temps were in the 50s. I was quite surprised since the 5.3L 6 speed I had for OVER 4 YEARS always reached 190, sometimes 194, and would rarely dip below 188 no matter what my driving style or ambient conditions were. Exactly. The transmission cooler, that's part of the MAX TRAILERING package, does work beyond the capabilities of a cooler in trucks without the MAX TRAILERING package.
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