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DenaliX14

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About DenaliX14

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  • Birthday March 1

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  1. The truck isn’t lifted. Stock ride night. Great until we had to replace the engine harness. On order from GM parts direct. need to set an appointment with Jannetty racing for the transmission. I have to use that engine oil per Texas speed or they won’t honor my warranty.
  2. No thank you. If it isn’t Driven LS30 5W-30 it isn’t going in my truck. especially whatever recycled material they’re peddling.
  3. Does your state require annual emissions testing? OBD/Two speed Idle etc?
  4. Not personally. I ordered mine from Summit. Had to have some fab work. Only cost me $100 something per cat and about $150 worth of piping a labor from a local muffler shop.
  5. @ShortyMatt, Is 100% correct. As my truck was sitting in my driveway with bent pushrods & collapsed lifters I started joining Truck forums and reading about known issues on trucks variants. So I started buying more and more upgrades. They dropped into a few buckets. Induction, Cooling, Fuel, drivetrain, driveline etc. OnallCylinders was very helpful for topics when and where things get weak or run out. For example Fuel tends to run out around 600-650. You'll need injectors, low side and high side pumps. I knew I would eventually need them so I got them lol. Missing the Gasket was just me not realizing and being excited that I now have a 7.0 vs 6.2 block. Honestly TSP should have recommended or shipped them with the block. @truckguy82 Yeah LT1's L86's are mostly identical however, any variant needs to have upgraded internals when going under extreme boost. Anybody boosting their block needs to think about upgrading rods, pistons and possibly crank. It will be the monster under your bead every day that one day it'll climb out and bite you. Also, the trucks weigh a lot more :), the truck is always going to have to work harder. Which makes a huge difference. Take my engine for example. On a dyno it will make 1200 HP easy. Put that engine into my truck and it will only put down 900 Wheel. Now put my engine into a corvette. It will put down 1100+ Wheel power NO PROBLEM. Okay same thought. Take a stock internal 6.2L Boosted block 700-800 Wheel engine from a corvette and put it into my truck. Tune it to 800 Wheel and you're going to start breaking things. As a reigning Forum champion you should already know this.... @ROB_IS_KING I would recommend James any day. He's is a trusted professional with ample experience.
  6. Wow, Lots of chatter the past few days. Sorry I've been traveling heavily for work. Sorry for the long response. I will break the timeline down a bit. Short answer...no the truck is not done. To be clear it was finished and ready to go until I asked for more power....oops. I will lay in the prefix here. I let the owner know I had plenty of time for him to spend on this build. I'm in a situation where I have multiple vehicles. At the time (May 2019) The shop was slammed with other vehicles and Mine was just a heads/cam job at the time. The ETA for completion was end of April. During that time I started to get the bug for more mods and we spoke about a LT4 blower laying around in storage which I purchased. Fast forward to April 20th..ish... The blower bolts right up to the new Texas Speed headers however the Snout sticks out 1" further than my drive assembly. This wasn't measured since my truck was still in the waiting line. I had two directions to go, spend over $3.5K for the correct assembly or $2-3K to exchange my blower to the correct type with a company based out of TX. I took Option Z go turbo. After putting the $2,900 I spent on the Blower and Nick Williams TB to the Massive turbo We had to wait for delivery of parts and the owners backlog of installs continued to grow. I didn't press him since we had parts on order. During that time period I did more research on "weak points" on the LT1 and saw Pistons we're a common issue over 550 whp so I purchased Diamond Pistols. 10:1 compression. When those arrived I delivered to the owner who ended up taking my block home to work over the weekends to keep something moving. Again I have multiple vehicles and wasn't pressing him. While the Block was out and being worked on I started to get more and more into weak points and upgrades grabbing a new Fuel system, High and Low side pumps as well as injectors, Meth kit, Total cooling systems etc. I just kept going and going pushing more and more of the build out. Fast forward to July or Whenever it was I read a tread about the drive shafts being a weak point and asked the shop not to dyne until I got a replacement. Which I did and posted about. They installed that and started firing up the engine. Dynoing went very well. The truck started putting out massive power with very low boost and no meth. Things were almost wrapped up when the big pull happened and now that the block has been removed it ended up being several bearings and two rods destroying the block. This obviously delayed the over all build and I ended up spending a bit on a built 7.0 cid from Texas Speed and Performance. Once the block arrived The shop came and picked it up and it was another countdown until my truck could have the busted engine removed, dissembled and start moving parts over to the beast block. The engine is back in and fully reassembled. We're waiting on a new engine harness since the original was not in the best shape to begin with, probably the nasty chipmunks that dwell around my house. Once the harness comes in and is put on it's break in, bast tune, put a few hundred miles on it then the final Dyno. Once I get the final dyno I need to take the truck to a performance shop in CT that does Transmissions. I ended up buying the PATC Level 4 Phoenix rebuild kit with billet planet and 4 clutch torque converter. Overall goal is to be at 950-1000WHP just because. The shop hasn't done anything I haven't been aware of or planned on. The expectation was, take your time and do it right. The stock block was my fault. I should have upgraded the Rods and bearings with something like https://gwatneyperformance.com/product/gpi-lt1-drop-in-piston-rod-package/#configuration but hindsight is 20/20 as they say. And my goal at the time was 750-800 WHP on those stock components. Noooobueno. The gaskets we're an oversight on my behalf since I went from a 6.2L to 7.0L. It just never occurred to me I'd need new ones. so DUH moment on my part. All in all they've had my truck from mid March to Nov (9 months). All things considered on a build like this, I'm not worried. And again. I have two other new vehicles. This is my weekend toy ever since I got rid of my C63 AMG. Not goin to spell check or fix grammatical errors. Just got home from a 6 hour flight. Enjoy :). Final thought. I still think if anyone wants a totally different driving experience just throw on a Whipple, Procharger or Eddlebrock system. puts you over 500whp and you don't need to spend $30+k, Unless you can ......
  7. Guys be skeptical... Look for DATA** Speak with Tuners and Folks that have been around these items for decent length of time. Don't ever just accept anecdotal comments or **feelings**. They're not factual and don't provide any evidence to support you spending your hard earned money! As far as my experience with JET; I've purchased the TB and then the MAF sensor. I did not notice a single difference using one, the other or both at the same time (purchased independently of one another). When Speaking with tuners, (DiabLEW, and local tuners) they all recommended going back to OEM as JET causes issues while tuning. Especially the MAF sensor. Just my $.02 save your money. If you're out for Performance just buy a Supercharger kit, Whipple, PROcharger or Eddlebrock. They're all relatively the same price and go on sale during Black Friday (Big time). It will provide a totally different driving experience and jack your HP up significantly without having to upgrade any additional internals/externals. If you're out for a cool sounding vehicle, just grab yourself an exhaust.
  8. Cool, enjoy. Should make a little more. Maybe consider a turbo down the road. They'll make significant power.
  9. You won't need a manifold swap when you Whipple. It takes the place of the manifold... The D1 however, will greatly benefit from the swap. Much more air to "gulp". If you want to get crazy; do the manifold swap then throw on a Lingenfelter 95mm Ported TB. Boom.
  10. Engine is assembled and back in the truck. Time to button it all up, fill it with the break-in oil and start the process!
  11. Should be a 3/4 ID hose. I don't believe that changes. If it does you can go to AUTOzone and the will cut you the appropriate length and diameter hose for pennies.
  12. I'm interested in your thoughts on Solar vs the Lingenfelter ported LT5 tb. https://www.lingenfelter.com/product/L270056914.html#.XbWk0S-ZMmU Also, I'm curious if anyone has actually done any Dyno work on these?
  13. Mine gets 3049582374 MPG. Beat that!! . . . . . . . . .
  14. where have you seen the 6.2L's for sale? I've been scouring the internet looking for salvaged, used, refurbished etc to pick up. PM me if you don't mind.
  15. My vote.... just save your money and whipple your truck. Find a shop that will install for a deal and purchase the kit that comes with a tuner on Black Friday. Save yourself a TON of money. depending on brand. -CAI 400-600 5-20 whp (with tune) -Cam 300-500 + 2,000+ install and supporting parts. 30-50 WHP needs tune -throttle body 299-600 (May need tune 95mm+) 5-20whp -headders 600-1200 (You’ll want a tune) 5-15whp -mid pipe 300-900 0- negative hp with cats -cat back 500-1200 5-10 WHP whipple with tune on Black Friday $5,500. +150+ WHP. food for thought. Up for debate. Have at it.
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