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About Daverado

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  1. I imagine it's because a lot of tires these days are directional tread. Both sides have to look the same since each side will face out depending which side you put them on.
  2. 4WD can't help you brake and steer on ice like proper winter tires can.
  3. Sure. They don't "warp", but they do end up with a non-uniform surface. Which is what everyone means when they say "warped", and which is a problem, and which is all reasonable people really care about. Simply saying "rotors don't warp" is ignoring the issue and not addressing the problem. So yeah, it's douchey to point that out instead of saying something productive.
  4. It's not the 1970s anymore. 99+% of cars on the road don't have metal/chrome front-ends now. It's not a problem unique to this truck. I'm not sure what you're really afraid of... why would 80% of customers complain when the same thing that happens to every other car happens to this one?
  5. Wow, lots to unravel there but I guess right from the top it'll be off-topic. Ok, salesmen are clueless, your a$$ and brain disagree, tires are a problem. You can't handle understeer, and you think a heavier front end will fix that? Do you even physics bro? Still not sure what you're trying to say about the engine here. It's hard to find one? Lots of doom-saying with comparisons to the V4/6/8, and other unrelated issues. Really just a bunch of rambling FUD here. Great technology implemented, BUT OMG it was designed by the same company that has designed both amazing and terrible engines in the past. Don't buy this engine because something might go wrong with it and then you're stuck with it! LOL. If your concerns were actually based on something substantial... anything at all really, it would be so much easier to take you seriously. Who are you preaching to anyway? You're in the wrong thread bro. You come across like the kind of guy that walks into a friends house and criticizes their decor until they ask you to leave and not be friends anymore.
  6. Just be prepared for all of the responses that don't understand what "fan club" means lol.
  7. I had this problem on my last truck and chopped down the antenna a few inches. On this one the truck itself will hit the door frame if I try, so I haven't bothered chopping the antenna. I took it off completely though since I don't use radio lol.
  8. I used to run 16"/33" BFG AT/KOs year-round on a Tahoe, but then I got a lowered Sierra and ran 20" Hankook Ventus RH06 summer and 20" Blizzak DM V1s in the winter. Pretty good combination for handling year-round. On this one I still have the crap no-season 22" Alenzas I run in summer, but I got a set of 275/60R20 Duratracs for winter. They do well. The Alenzas would probably do ok in 4-auto full-time, but I didn't want to run the bigger rims in winter either.
  9. It did seem well-intentioned to me as well, but his approach is way off base. "Look I see something different here everyday, what do you think about that" is a much more productive approach than "everyone else is wrong you really need to listen to me instead" and then spouting bad information. Even when you're right you're going to annoy a bunch of the people you're supposedly trying to help. The real savings is paying off whichever loan has the highest interest rate first. Doesn't matter what it's attached to, it's just borrowed money costing you money. Having grown up in the 80s when interest rates were so much higher, these 3% rates feel like free money to me. I keep refinancing my house to borrow more and avoid paying it off, that's a huge source of leverage to invest. Real estate values increasing in my area pays off a higher % of the house than my payments do. My bank's savings interest rate is nearly as high as my mortgage, even if I don't invest in something riskier for a higher return. Just my $0.02
  10. A couple of other interesting things to see there in those numbers... Paying $866/month vs. $975/mo you are "saving" $654 total over 6 months. But after 6 months your "ENDING BALANCE" is also $496 less. You own more of the vehicle after 6 months even though you paid less. The difference in interest cost is the combination of those two factors, how much more you've paid and how much more you still have to pay for that 6 months. So $654 more in payments plus $496 additional in what you still owe gives you that same $1150 figure you get in the "CUMULATIVE INTEREST" difference. If you sell the vehicle (or refinance), that $500 is in your pocket now. I doubt finance managers are required to have a finance degree/certificate/whatever education or understand this stuff honestly. They have $5k software to do it for them after all lol. Most of the ones I've dealt with were just glorified salespeople there to sell rust, paint, and fabric protection and extended warranties after the other salespeople are done selling me the floormats.
  11. So.. one comment I will make on this.. First, yes you do get a second hard pull on your credit for the new loan, and that is not ideal. You also get a pretty hefty paid-in-full loan account on your credit report in your favor though. As long as you're good at paying bills on time lol. I think the benefit of that second loan for the same money probably balances out or even outweighs the credit check, but I am only speculating on that. It's only six months after all. If you don't have plans to be using your credit for other things in the near future, that paid-off loan should benefit your score longer than the credit check will ding it I would guess. -Daver
  12. See here's my problem... I think you're not doing the math, or you're not being honest. And that's what this thread is really about. There's no way you can insist the interest difference is only $150-200. Because that depends on the details of the loan. I financed 100% of my HC. $66,425. The dealer offered 6.99% financing. I got 3.24% from my local credit union. The financing rebate at the time was $1000. The math isn't complicated, in fact websites like https://www.bankrate.com/calculators/auto/auto-loan-calculator.aspx will do it for you. Total interest in 6 months: 6.99%: $2240 3.24%: $1035 Difference: $1205. Doing the math tells me that's a lot more than $150-200. So you really need to stop spreading your misinformation. Dealers aren't doing anyone any favors here. NO PENALTY FOR EARLY REFINANCE!
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