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About OneTruck60Mexicans

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  1. Do you know if the line had been that way for the entire 56k miles — or did it begin ‘failing’ more as the truck was driven? Trying to figure out if I’m going to have to crawl under my new, $60k truck and check the oil line each time I drive it.
  2. I assume the affected trucks have the yellow stripe showing from the factory? Checked mine tonight, but I do not see any stripes - wondering if this means the lines/crimps are safe?
  3. Yikes. The stories shared is exactly why I decided to perform the TSB myself after discovering I had a tainted/leaking rear window as well. The estimated 1.5 hours shown to complete the TSB isn’t nearly enough time to do the repair properly. The seal on the window seems to be doing its job (for me, at least), but I was able to clearly see the cracks in the sliding window channel allowing water to enter the cabin. I suspect this would only get worse with time as the truck shifts and flexes from daily driving. Just curious, for those of you who’ve gotten ‘revised’ windows installed, can you tell if there is a seal at the top of the rear window - or maybe a different material was used for the channel?
  4. I’m with you. I left my EGRs on for now, but they are definitely smashing the rubber on the front window seals. The small piece of protective tape on the front edge of the deflector helps a little, but probably not enough to stop them from eventually tearing.
  5. Your windows won't roll up at all? I bought the EGR in-channels as well. The fit is pretty decent - the front taps the deflector a little when the window slides past them, but not enough to cause any problems. The back doesn't hit at all. I am going to try to 'train' the front a little more to keep them from hitting (hopefully). I don't like the way the fronts sit and 'flare' out a bit near the side mirrors. This is the first set of visors/deflectors I've owned designed this way, so I assume it's normal. The fitment was pretty solid - no movement at all once installed.
  6. I am searching for a 3-ish" kit for my 2019 Sierra (6" is probably going to be too much for me). Does anyone have any specific thoughts on either of these? I am not sure what the biggest pro/con would be using traditional ball joints vs uniballs (I presume better angles with the uniballs?). This will be my first kit, so I am not sure how good/reputable Fabtech is. I won't be running the truck or kit through the wringer, but I'd like for the kit to be solid when needed. https://fabtechmotorsports.com/product-category/chevy-gmc/4wd/k1500/2019-gm-1500-4wd/3-5-inch-systems-2019/ball-joint-uca/ https://fabtechmotorsports.com/product-category/chevy-gmc/4wd/k1500/2019-gm-1500-4wd/3-5-inch-systems-2019/uniball-uca/ Looking at one of the installation guides, this doesn't look too difficult to install and nearly zero hacking/cutting involved (I guess that's the be expected with a 3.5" lift?). What I am wondering is if the new steering knuckle design helps address some of the 'bad' suspension angles from previous years, or if these kits will still cause premature wear/failure of ball joints.
  7. I believe this is it -> http://www.whiteautoandmedia.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=97&category_id=55&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=54. I would like to perform this swap, but I haven't put any time and energy into sourcing an actual cluster. I'd like the HUD as well, but I am not sure if it'll be a direct swap or fit.
  8. I can confirm they’re the same size bulbs as the 2018s (194). I bought a set of HP3s from Diode Dynamics - https://www.diodedynamics.com/license-plate-leds-for-1998-2017-gmc-sierra-2500-pair.html. I took a chance because the truck is so new it was difficult to confirm. It’s a little awkward to get to and remove the sockets, but definitely doable.
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