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Believe your model has the dual battery setup. Mine is a single battery setup but it has done weird things as soon as the battery loses some power (voltage OK but loss of CCA). My last battery I replaced, it was causing stabilitrak messages while turning (electronic steering heavy load), dash would flicker on and off with the infotainment system. The previous time my battery went out, it also had all kinds of warning lights flash on the dash, weird locking of the doors and windows, etc. I believe it threw a code for low voltage to the BCM or something like that too - low voltage to the BCM and all kinds of things go haywire. Don't know why it would affect your trans, but if the trans computer talks to the BCM, I'd guess that might be why. I'd first check the batteries for not only voltage, but cold cranking amps as well. Two off my bad batteries appeared to be normal by multimeter test but the cranking test showed they were down on juice. I have had a battery die in my 2015 in less than a year - I'm on my 4th or 5th battery now lol.

Seek, what took out the CAM? lifter collapse or spin? I found #4 exhaust pushrod bent like a dang boomerang. Was all chewed up from slapping around in there. The rocker looked ok so I just swapped that pushrod and a new valve cover gasket cause mine was smashed and hulked by whoever installed that. Twenty bucks and I'm rolling again yeehaw. Feels amazing when you were budgeting for a full delete and cam. Guessing there was a sticky valve on startup when it revs high and could have boomeranged it then, any other ideas? I don't run a catch can so I'm sure my valves look like a volcanic wasteland while the inside of my engine looks new lol.

i had just fueled the truck, gone inside for a drink, and came out and remote started. it coughed, gagged, and clanged like a few teeth off on a timing belt, but started up immediately after that. muttered to myself "that aint good". this isnt the first time my truck had made that lovely noise on remote start - happened maybe once or twice before but long enough ago i cant remember when with no ill or longstanding effect. anyway, after remote starting it, she ran ok but developed what sounds like a lifter tick from the passenger side coupled with maybe a 10 wheel HP loss at most. small enough of a loss that you may not notice it if you drive like grandpa. cant hear the ticking in the cabin with the windows up at all, but its audible outside and sounds like a typical lifter tick on a GM. my AFM has been off, running the same hypertech tune for the past 3+ years and 40k+ mi (87k on it now). no codes, CEL, warnings etc, but did have historical misfire counts of 2 on cyl1, 1 on cyl3, and 1 on cyl6. not a lot, but its more than zero. wont be using the truck until I can figure it out when I have some time next week, but wanted to run this by the community in case im forgetting something. -use stethoscope to probe around for noise source, seems to be coming from the valve cover on passenger side but its loud at the wheel well too, cadence of the tick seems to indicate top end issue and not bottom end -need to check coils, plugs, and wires as they are all original. seems arcing on the coils/wires can cause a similar noise to lifter tick. -if noise concentrated on the rocker area, going to pull the valve cover, check and listen for abnormalities, and then remove and inspect the pushrods to see if anything is bent or broken. i have a borescope I can put down the hole and inspect the lifter to see if there are any glaring defects. i think I may have a bent pushrod, broken spring, or collapsed/spun lifter that isnt causing a catastrophic misfire. really dont want to groove up the cam lobes. if my truck hasnt been in 4cyl mode for years, is it possible to get the lifter to collapse on its own through remote starting? i know others who have disabled AFM have still had lifters and camshafts gone bad, but I believe those are due to them spinning in the plastic tray thingy and not from collapsing due to v4 mode. perhaps the valves were sticky with carbon and gunk on startup causing the pushrod to bend or break? i dont know enough about this engine yet but it seems i'm going to get wayyyyy too familiar with it soon sadly : (

I'm on my third screen now - its definitely the digitizer-to-display glue or whatever they use. I used OEM replacements (cheap chinese junk) and they both failed at the same exact spot at the bottom left of the screen where it phantom touches. the newest one is just starting to take a crap on me but is still usable. If you use android auto its a pain in the ass cause its going to keep messing with your google maps and send you somewhere else lol. Seems the screen tends to act up more when its hot vs cold and the glue either binds or separates causing the phantom touches. I've even tried to heat treat and press the screens back together but next time I'm going cheap and replacing the digitizer assembly as wyatt had done.

I have done the slave device and AAgateway to do wireless AA in my truck. It works, but it was a huge hassle to get everything to be happy together. The deal breaker was the stuttering audio and laggy GPS. I've since purchased a 90 degree angle USB cable so I can sit my phone upright in the cupholder while plugged in.

How nice of your truck to display a warning message! My vacuum pump was going out and produced the hard pedal/no power brakes, but I was not so lucky to receive warning from my truck. Try and pump your brakes a bit while you're rolling slowly or at idle and see if you can get the pedal to go hard. Warning, you wont be able to stop as easily once it goes hard. Take it in to your trusted dealer and they'll have it back to you in a day or two with a new vacuum pump. You should qualify for the extended warranty on the part and have the work done on GM's dime.

omg those seat covers

I want to see a 130k motor with catch can. You can get cheap smartphone scopes on amazon.

If you have Bose I'd also check the AMP fuse in the same panel as the RDO, right dash. I got a black screen, no blinker noises, and no radio when that one blew. Mine blew when I was working on my Bose amp behind the rear seat and I didn't disconnect the battery properly (I wedged the negative cable on the side but it moved back enough to touch the neg terminal).

I was typing up a response to racer saying this exact thing when your post notification showed up. I'd try and get the setup back to "stock" without the navtv and go from there. If it turns out the navtv is the culprit, I'd tap the amp in the back seat to get the audio signal for your amp using an audiocontrol unit.

I got you. Bose '15 here and I did the upgrade from WAMS. Under the conditions you've stated, the preset remains highlighted and the screen stays normal playing the music until I open the door. I'd suspect your radio module, but perhaps WAMS or magpie can chime in if they've seen this before.

Payton, you'll need to source a 2016 red cluster (your gmc cluster is red, right?) along with the HMI/Radio modules. Pretty sure you have to do this at the same time as the cluster, as these things all need to talk together to work, but you'll get android auto and carplay too. If you havent contacted WAMS for part numbers and checked the other thread on upgrading, please do so. I did the full upgrade, and I have the off-road page on my cluster. Its fully functional. Since you have a GMC, you might be able to get the cluster to show the off road page as a truck. On mine, since there was no silverado denali cluster, I get to look at a tahoe/suburban on the off road pages and door open icons, etc where it previously showed a truck. You'll probably have to enable the off road page in settings as I dont think it comes enabled from the get-go.

Thats the one I ordered. They'll probably call you or email you for the VIN# before it ships. They dont care that the part doesnt match the VIN.

Those customs sure are strange animals. I just looked at my brothers 2018 custom and he had no idea that he already had AA/CP in the projection icon. He has the large in dash screen, small gauge cluster screen, no steering wheel controls. What are you trying to upgrade on yours?

Yea I totally understand. Definitely not a "cheap" mod. For those of us where factory appearance and function are king, its a small price to pay for the alternative aftermarket looking deal. I have an alpine aftermarket screen in my '09 silverado, and it looks just that, aftermarket. I just, literally JUST installed a Pioneer headunit into my wifes car which is capable of wireless AA/CP (wireless AA does not work on my Galaxy S9+ OOTB, but my wifes iPhone should be ok). It looks OK and has more features than I do (screen mirror, etc), but I did pay something around $800 for the unit and all additional wiring etc to get the steering wheel controls to work, backup camera on two screens, etc. Everything but the head unit itself looks factory, but if I had the option of spending an extra $300 to get it 100% factory, would I? Yup, I would.

I believe once you do the AA/CP modules, you'll need the blue green 2016 version, as your HMI will now be 2016 spec. You'll need to contact WAMS for fitment though to be sure. My 2015 used the 2016 blue green part number for the denali cluster. WAMS did the entire thing together in one shot for me. Also to note, I was able to get AA running wireless using a slave device plugged into the center console, though its not without its shortcomings (it also costs 99 cents for the app lol). Here is a post from the colorado forums that outlines the process.

Wanted to share my costs for the project for those that are curious. I did the cluster and apple carplay/android auto. Everything working as advertised thus far. These are rounded but are very close to actual. 2.5 HMI and matching radio module, used - $200 shipped (ebay) Updated USB ports, new-pulled from console - $40 shipped (ebay) Denali/F-cluster blue green for a 2016 - $405 shipped (gmoutletparts.com) 2.5 HMI/radio module programming - $100 (WAMS) Denali cluster programming - $250 (WAMS) Shipping costs (To/From WAMS) - $120 Total = $1,115 USD