Believe your model has the dual battery setup. Mine is a single battery setup but it has done weird things as soon as the battery loses some power (voltage OK but loss of CCA). My last battery I replaced, it was causing stabilitrak messages while turning (electronic steering heavy load), dash would flicker on and off with the infotainment system. The previous time my battery went out, it also had all kinds of warning lights flash on the dash, weird locking of the doors and windows, etc. I believe it threw a code for low voltage to the BCM or something like that too - low voltage to the BCM and all kinds of things go haywire. Don't know why it would affect your trans, but if the trans computer talks to the BCM, I'd guess that might be why. I'd first check the batteries for not only voltage, but cold cranking amps as well. Two off my bad batteries appeared to be normal by multimeter test but the cranking test showed they were down on juice. I have had a battery die in my 2015 in less than a year - I'm on my 4th or 5th battery now lol.
Seek, what took out the CAM? lifter collapse or spin? I found #4 exhaust pushrod bent like a dang boomerang. Was all chewed up from slapping around in there. The rocker looked ok so I just swapped that pushrod and a new valve cover gasket cause mine was smashed and hulked by whoever installed that. Twenty bucks and I'm rolling again yeehaw. Feels amazing when you were budgeting for a full delete and cam. Guessing there was a sticky valve on startup when it revs high and could have boomeranged it then, any other ideas? I don't run a catch can so I'm sure my valves look like a volcanic wasteland while the inside of my engine looks new lol.
i had just fueled the truck, gone inside for a drink, and came out and remote started. it coughed, gagged, and clanged like a few teeth off on a timing belt, but started up immediately after that. muttered to myself "that aint good". this isnt the first time my truck had made that lovely noise on remote start - happened maybe once or twice before but long enough ago i cant remember when with no ill or longstanding effect. anyway, after remote starting it, she ran ok but developed what sounds like a lifter tick from the passenger side coupled with maybe a 10 wheel HP loss at most. small enough of a loss that you may not notice it if you drive like grandpa. cant hear the ticking in the cabin with the windows up at all, but its audible outside and sounds like a typical lifter tick on a GM. my AFM has been off, running the same hypertech tune for the past 3+ years and 40k+ mi (87k on it now). no codes, CEL, warnings etc, but did have historical misfire counts of 2 on cyl1, 1 on cyl3, and 1 on cyl6. not a lot, but its more than zero. wont be using the truck until I can figure it out when I have some time next week, but wanted to run this by the community in case im forgetting something. -use stethoscope to probe around for noise source, seems to be coming from the valve cover on passenger side but its loud at the wheel well too, cadence of the tick seems to indicate top end issue and not bottom end -need to check coils, plugs, and wires as they are all original. seems arcing on the coils/wires can cause a similar noise to lifter tick. -if noise concentrated on the rocker area, going to pull the valve cover, check and listen for abnormalities, and then remove and inspect the pushrods to see if anything is bent or broken. i have a borescope I can put down the hole and inspect the lifter to see if there are any glaring defects. i think I may have a bent pushrod, broken spring, or collapsed/spun lifter that isnt causing a catastrophic misfire. really dont want to groove up the cam lobes. if my truck hasnt been in 4cyl mode for years, is it possible to get the lifter to collapse on its own through remote starting? i know others who have disabled AFM have still had lifters and camshafts gone bad, but I believe those are due to them spinning in the plastic tray thingy and not from collapsing due to v4 mode. perhaps the valves were sticky with carbon and gunk on startup causing the pushrod to bend or break? i dont know enough about this engine yet but it seems i'm going to get wayyyyy too familiar with it soon sadly : (
I'm on my third screen now - its definitely the digitizer-to-display glue or whatever they use. I used OEM replacements (cheap chinese junk) and they both failed at the same exact spot at the bottom left of the screen where it phantom touches. the newest one is just starting to take a crap on me but is still usable. If you use android auto its a pain in the ass cause its going to keep messing with your google maps and send you somewhere else lol. Seems the screen tends to act up more when its hot vs cold and the glue either binds or separates causing the phantom touches. I've even tried to heat treat and press the screens back together but next time I'm going cheap and replacing the digitizer assembly as wyatt had done.
I have done the slave device and AAgateway to do wireless AA in my truck. It works, but it was a huge hassle to get everything to be happy together. The deal breaker was the stuttering audio and laggy GPS. I've since purchased a 90 degree angle USB cable so I can sit my phone upright in the cupholder while plugged in.
I've been running the Raxioms for a couple of weeks now. I believe them to be the same as the Morimoto's, without the 10-year warranty (and maybe crappier built-in resistors?). The housings are made by the same folks, as you can tell by the DOT stamping showing the true manufacturer name. They're nice and bright, but the reverse LED paints a strange pattern of light in your rear view camera as it tries to "project" the LED through a small lens. I've also run into them hyperflashing. Both sides have hyperflashed/bulb out warning on me, and the fix is better resistors wired into the harness. So far I've had a decent customer service experience with the AT guys. I'm probably going to keep running them. I blacked out my 3rd brake light with vvivid vinyl clear smoke tint wrap and swapped the bulbs with LEDs to match. Sorry, the truck is filthy as we had been expecting some bad weather that never materialized.
I was wondering the same, as I'm currently using the max energy 2.0 to smooth driveability and maximize economy. The tunes and other transmission mods cause some kind of timing retard and clunks in the tranny(on my truck at least) so I have it all stock other than the AFM off below <20 mph. I tried the throttle boost on the max energy and disabled my vitesse controller, but didnt like the way it felt versus the vitesse on sp3. Pretty happy with how it drives now.
How nice of your truck to display a warning message! My vacuum pump was going out and produced the hard pedal/no power brakes, but I was not so lucky to receive warning from my truck. Try and pump your brakes a bit while you're rolling slowly or at idle and see if you can get the pedal to go hard. Warning, you wont be able to stop as easily once it goes hard. Take it in to your trusted dealer and they'll have it back to you in a day or two with a new vacuum pump. You should qualify for the extended warranty on the part and have the work done on GM's dime.
Just had mine repaired at the dealer @ 52k mi. She was there for a day and a half as they had to do some dance with GM to verify the condition and "order parts". Pump and belt were replaced. Road test immediately revealed the issue to the tech. Brake feels linear and normal now but time will tell. Cant they just hook up the scanner and pull up the booster vac instead of driving? I think they did a lunch run but I'm not mad.
I have two Britax Marathon type seats from Target and Amazon. These are relatively big and I dont think they'd be a great fit unless forward facing. Rear facing they would possibly fit, but your wife will be resting her elbows on your dash. The back of the car seat touches the passenger seat headrest, but the passenger seat is in a normal comfortable seating position with ample leg room. This crappy picture taken in the rain is of my crew cab. The seat in the center might be your best bet as you can have the back hang into the gap between the seats. If theres no anchors for the middle, could you use the inner anchors from either side seat and secure it that way? If I use the anchors only in the rear right seat like pictured, I still have to use the top strap to keep the seat secure (you can see it in the picture attached under the passenger seat rail).
Exactly. If you dont have small kids, you just dont know. A little peace and quiet is literally priceless. It aint the greatest parenting letting your kids zombie off like that, but sometimes, maintaining your sanity is important. We all have different needs for our rides and there are enough trim levels on our trucks available to prove it. It would be nice if people didnt insult an entire group of humans simply because they have different needs and desires for their things. I do get pretty angry when there is a knucklehead in front of me texting and the light turns green. But that is what loud horns are for.
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