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    '15 CC Z71
  1. I hear you. With respect to navigation, I'd still plug it in. Wireless AA with slave and wireless CP in my wifes car shows my location delayed some. From my experience, 50 ft or so on average behind where you are now.
  2. If it does work, it will probably lag the audio or skip it some. I've tried going wireless in my truck using a slave device plugged in the center console USB and connecting them over wifi, but the music and maps will lag/skip due to the heavier data being transmitted. I'll even have the same thing happen in my wifes car that has wireless carplay capability. Video/audio sync problems mainly there rather than skipping.
  3. I'd start by ruling out your device by trying another android. Perhaps there is an app running that's taking audio priority.
  4. Google maps has a little mute button on the green box when you have a destination entered to turn off the voice prompts, I've got mine muted and Google maps doesn't make a peep. As for your music, I'd try force closing all apps or restarting your device and unplugging it a few times.
  5. The reason these plastics look like that is that the oils have dried up, right? You can try the heat gun thing that will bring the oil to the surface, but that looks splotchy and takes a while. I'd also avoid those "back to black" and "forever black" type dyes that will wear out quickly. I havent tried yota's suggestion before, but I use something similar cause it was in the garage already, outdoor wooden furniture oil. The paint additive yota is suggesting is oil based, so I'd assume it would work in a similar manner. Lasts much longer. Spot test anything you try before you go all out.
  6. Had no idea how smooth my truck could be with the AFM off - she rides like a caddy without the bouncy. Any tuners/devices other than the Hypertech that can disable AFM below certain speeds only? I can get absurd highway mileage in V4, but driving around town (90%+ of the time) I'm irritated by the noticeable stumbling transition. Highway in V8 is smoother no doubt, but I'm about 5 mpg off. In town, its <1 mpg difference with AFM on/off.
  7. I was typing up a response to racer saying this exact thing when your post notification showed up. I'd try and get the setup back to "stock" without the navtv and go from there. If it turns out the navtv is the culprit, I'd tap the amp in the back seat to get the audio signal for your amp using an audiocontrol unit.
  8. I got you. Bose '15 here and I did the upgrade from WAMS. Under the conditions you've stated, the preset remains highlighted and the screen stays normal playing the music until I open the door. I'd suspect your radio module, but perhaps WAMS or magpie can chime in if they've seen this before.
  9. When I swapped out my radio module behind the screen, I tightened up all the bolts holding everything down under the plastic trim. Every one of them was loose to a certain degree and I had a few squeaks go away after doing that. There are a host of things in the footwell area that can come loose and wiggle as well so have a look at anything that isnt mounted securely.
  10. I've got the bootleg weathertechs. They are good other than the crappy bolt they give you that rusts out instantly.
  11. Denali cluster in SLT

    Payton, you'll need to source a 2016 red cluster (your gmc cluster is red, right?) along with the HMI/Radio modules. Pretty sure you have to do this at the same time as the cluster, as these things all need to talk together to work, but you'll get android auto and carplay too. If you havent contacted WAMS for part numbers and checked the other thread on upgrading, please do so. I did the full upgrade, and I have the off-road page on my cluster. Its fully functional. Since you have a GMC, you might be able to get the cluster to show the off road page as a truck. On mine, since there was no silverado denali cluster, I get to look at a tahoe/suburban on the off road pages and door open icons, etc where it previously showed a truck. You'll probably have to enable the off road page in settings as I dont think it comes enabled from the get-go.
  12. HMI is almost vertically mounted I believe with a bunch of connectors in it. Might be worth a shot to re-seat those as well if you're in there. Above cabin filter. But yes I'd start with the battery/cables/connections. Low voltage in GM cars can do all sorts of weird things. Any strange lights or codes showing up?
  13. Is this a Bose or non-Bose? When I was installing a sub in my 15 w/Bose, the negative terminal on the battery that I disconnected wiggled itself back to the negative post on the battery. When I plugged the Bose amp behind the rear seat in, it immediately sparked and blew a fuse, which I believe was something like AMP in the same panel where you found the RDO fuse (passenger side dash panel). The result was no audio/chimes/etc but the 8" screen also went blank and didnt fire up the mylink either. If you don't have a Bose system, I'd suspect the HMI module behind the glovebox (bluetooth in here, right? or is it the radio module?). Otherwise, I'd have a look at the amp in a Bose configuration.
  14. Thats the one I ordered. They'll probably call you or email you for the VIN# before it ships. They dont care that the part doesnt match the VIN.
  15. Those customs sure are strange animals. I just looked at my brothers 2018 custom and he had no idea that he already had AA/CP in the projection icon. He has the large in dash screen, small gauge cluster screen, no steering wheel controls. What are you trying to upgrade on yours?

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