AD80

The 174k might be a typo but, saw a few silverado 3.0's with 95k+ also. Good to see their holding up so far. https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=627295471&allListingType=all-cars&engineCodes=6CLDR&city=West Helena&state=AR&zip=72390&location=&fuelTypeGroup=DSL&searchRadius=0&startYear=2020&endYear=2021&isNewSearch=false&marketExtension=include&showAccelerateBanner=false&sortBy=mileageDESC&numRecords=25&dma=&referrer=%2Fcars-for-sale%2Fall-cars%2F6-cylinder%2Fwest-helena-ar-72390%3Fdma%3D%26fuelTypeGroup%3DDSL%26searchRadius%3D0%26location%3D%26startYear%3D2020%26endYear%3D2021%26isNewSearch%3Dfalse%26marketExtension%3Dinclude%26showAccelerateBanner%3Dfalse%26sortBy%3DmileageDESC%26numRecords%3D25&clickType=listing

They could have. Their is a YouTube review, I think it was tfl, where they were showing the shocks up close and there was a good view of the uca. To me, it didn’t look any different than the other trucks, but that doesn’t mean they weren’t.

The new zr2 and at4x both will have the dssv shocks, and looks like they will also use the same uca and ball joints as the other standard trucks. I also heard on one of the reviews that the zr2 will be.an inch higher than the trailboss. They are obviously marketing these as aggressive off road trucks that will see some tough riding. you’d think they would have put stronger ucas and ball joints on them if they are a weak point.

If yours is a non at4/ trailboss, and you put a level, you’ll be running the same angles as a factory at4/tb. Those have a factory 2” lift (level) with the same control arms and ball joints that are on a regular non at4. So in other words, ask him if these things are breaking control arms, then what about all the factory at4/tb on the road ? On the other hand, if you already have an ar4/tb, and you add a level to on top of what you already have, then you might have problems.

Thanks for the update. Did they mean gm thinks now that the ecm has been the problem all along for all the pump failures, or just yours individually?

I wonder if they’ve updated the pump, or are they still using the same design when they replace them.

I thought it was the lifters causing the pushrods bend which affected the springs or something like that. I havent been keeping up with it tho , so your probably right.

But gm or whoever, said the affected trucks were from those build dates, so they probably took into account which engines went out on those dates. Otherwise they would have went by vin numbers or something if the engines were spread out all over, im guessing.

Someone posted on one of these threads that they had a build date of 8/21, which is supposed to be after the range date, and also a no dfm, and he has the problem. sounds lile it anyway, it started shaking bad, died, then wouldnt start.

As I said above, mine goes away after driving a few miles, but when driven little or cold it does help when the rpm is up, so I just put it in nutreal, hold the brake, run it up to about 1000 then go to reverse real fast. and it gets smoother. Their seems to be a sweet spot. If I were you, I’d just do that when you back up until you figure it out. I have plenty of warranty left and I plan on trading it when the new 2022s comes out, so I’m not too worried about it, but if you plan on keeping yours a while, then I would definitely have the dealer fix it before warranty is up. Also if they try to say it’s normal (like they did me), I would let them feel yours, then go get in another one on the lot that shifts smooth , so they can see the difference and that it’s not normal.

Looks like it’s happening to trucks well past the “ bad batch” dates. Also the op’s truck is one of the ones without dfm activated, and it still happened. Only way I would trust one of these now, is if they completely removed the dfm hardware and started putting standard non dfm reliable lifters back in them.

Sounds good. I have a 19 leveled slt, but I plan on getting the new 22 at4 when it comes out, and I think I’m gonna go this route with the block rather than raising the front. Since the at4 has a factory level up front, by lowering the rear, It will still sit the same and just high as my truck does now.

Looks good. Have you driven it at higher speeds yet to see if there’s any vibrations? Some say they they need shims after block removal and some don’t need them at all. I know the non at4s have the shims.

If you have a trail boss or at4, you could take the rear blocks out to level and your truck will still be the same height as a leveled non tb/at4