Yes, could have been a lot worse. glad your ok. Since there is no recall for your truck, and it still happened, then i guess it could happen to all trucks. I wonder if the dealers will still fix this, weather we have a recall out or not.
Karrs42901 and Redslt, did your trucks have this particular recall out for them? I’m just wondering if even the trucks that don’t show this recall are also having this failure.
I’ve never used the app either, but the other morning when I started the truck, the dash kit up with all the brake failure warnings. Turned it off and restarted and the brake lights went away but the cel light remained on and has been on ever since. Brakes still work fine. I got the recall noticea couple days ago, but haven’t got it done yet. I live 100 mi from the dealer.
Mine slams into reverse sometimes sounding like someone hitting my trans with a sledgehammer, shaking the whole truck, but while shifting Into drive and while driving it shifts smooth as silk. Build date 6/19.
I wonder if instead of buying the whole gm kit, someone could just order the two Front struts by themselves, without the rear blocks or the cv axles. Should be all you need for just a level. Look at all the people running level spacer with the standard axles without problems, so far anyway.
I noticed their is a recall for certain trucks with this issue. Just curious if yours is one of the trucks with the recall.
I just got the brake warnings and check engine when i started the truck. Turned off and restarted and the brake stuff went away, but my check engine light is still on. Ive never used the app to start, only used the key fob remote start once a while back just to see if it worked. So its not just the trucks using the app that have the problem.
My build date is 6/19, and mine bangs into reverse just about every time. Shifts smooth into drive, and shifts smooth while driving. After driving a few miles, it still clunks into reverse, but not as hard. I can hear it but not feel it, but when it’s cold it will slam in and shake the whole truck. When I say cold, I don’t mean the engine, even after I let it warm up,it will still do it. I don’t know if it’s coming from the trans or the transfer. I know it can’t be good for it. Sounds like the gears banging into place. Took it to the dealer and after the long drive there, of course it just did the softer clunk and not the harder one, so I got the ol it’s normal speech.
I also have the slam/ clunk, but only in reverse. Doesn’t matter if I let it run for 10 seconds or 10 minutes before shifting, it will still do it. Mine is not really a jerk or lunge, it’s more like a metal clunk, like the gears are slamming into place. Once I drive it a few miles and let the trans warm up, It’s not as bad. It will still do it, just not as hard. Never does It going to drive, only reverse. Shifts fine while driving also. Build date 6/19. 1700 mi so far. Feels almost like the trans or transfer mount may be loose, as I can feel it shake as it clunks, but if that was the case, it seems like it would do it in drive also. I crawled under and looked a while back but didn’t see anything. I now back into my garage when I get home while the trans is warm so I can just pull out in drive in the morning to avoid this. And when I park somewhere I try to find a spot where I can pull straight out without using reverse if possible. Sucks I have to do this on a new truck. Took it to the dealer, but after driving there, the trans was nice and warm so they just felt the medium clunk and not the hard one I feel in the mornings. So of course they said it’s normal. Sorry for the long post.
Their should be a small dot or indentation on the front of your headlights , marking the center. Measure from that dot to the ground. Back up 25 away from the wall. Your light cut off point should be about 2" lower than your first measurement. So if your headlights are 47" from the ground, the top of the cut off line should be 45" on the wall when 25 feet away. I dont know if this is the official way to do it, but this is seems to be the way folks are doing it, and it should get you in the ballpark.
If I’m not mistaken, the factory gm lift that can be installed on non trail boss/ at4, is basically taller struts and longer cv axles. Don’t think it comes with new uca or ball joints. So if this is the case, wouldn’t you end up with the same ball joint angles and droop as with a regular level kit. Maybe they they allowed more tolerances for this reason. I have a 2” level and the bj angles don’t look too bad.
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