AD80

The 174k might be a typo but, saw a few silverado 3.0's with 95k+ also. Good to see their holding up so far. https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=627295471&allListingType=all-cars&engineCodes=6CLDR&city=West Helena&state=AR&zip=72390&location=&fuelTypeGroup=DSL&searchRadius=0&startYear=2020&endYear=2021&isNewSearch=false&marketExtension=include&showAccelerateBanner=false&sortBy=mileageDESC&numRecords=25&dma=&referrer=%2Fcars-for-sale%2Fall-cars%2F6-cylinder%2Fwest-helena-ar-72390%3Fdma%3D%26fuelTypeGroup%3DDSL%26searchRadius%3D0%26location%3D%26startYear%3D2020%26endYear%3D2021%26isNewSearch%3Dfalse%26marketExtension%3Dinclude%26showAccelerateBanner%3Dfalse%26sortBy%3DmileageDESC%26numRecords%3D25&clickType=listing

They could have. Their is a YouTube review, I think it was tfl, where they were showing the shocks up close and there was a good view of the uca. To me, it didn’t look any different than the other trucks, but that doesn’t mean they weren’t.

The new zr2 and at4x both will have the dssv shocks, and looks like they will also use the same uca and ball joints as the other standard trucks. I also heard on one of the reviews that the zr2 will be.an inch higher than the trailboss. They are obviously marketing these as aggressive off road trucks that will see some tough riding. you’d think they would have put stronger ucas and ball joints on them if they are a weak point.

If yours is a non at4/ trailboss, and you put a level, you’ll be running the same angles as a factory at4/tb. Those have a factory 2” lift (level) with the same control arms and ball joints that are on a regular non at4. So in other words, ask him if these things are breaking control arms, then what about all the factory at4/tb on the road ? On the other hand, if you already have an ar4/tb, and you add a level to on top of what you already have, then you might have problems.

Thanks for the update. Did they mean gm thinks now that the ecm has been the problem all along for all the pump failures, or just yours individually?

I wonder if they’ve updated the pump, or are they still using the same design when they replace them.

I thought it was the lifters causing the pushrods bend which affected the springs or something like that. I havent been keeping up with it tho , so your probably right.

But gm or whoever, said the affected trucks were from those build dates, so they probably took into account which engines went out on those dates. Otherwise they would have went by vin numbers or something if the engines were spread out all over, im guessing.

Someone posted on one of these threads that they had a build date of 8/21, which is supposed to be after the range date, and also a no dfm, and he has the problem. sounds lile it anyway, it started shaking bad, died, then wouldnt start.

As I said above, mine goes away after driving a few miles, but when driven little or cold it does help when the rpm is up, so I just put it in nutreal, hold the brake, run it up to about 1000 then go to reverse real fast. and it gets smoother. Their seems to be a sweet spot. If I were you, I’d just do that when you back up until you figure it out. I have plenty of warranty left and I plan on trading it when the new 2022s comes out, so I’m not too worried about it, but if you plan on keeping yours a while, then I would definitely have the dealer fix it before warranty is up. Also if they try to say it’s normal (like they did me), I would let them feel yours, then go get in another one on the lot that shifts smooth , so they can see the difference and that it’s not normal.

Looks like it’s happening to trucks well past the “ bad batch” dates. Also the op’s truck is one of the ones without dfm activated, and it still happened. Only way I would trust one of these now, is if they completely removed the dfm hardware and started putting standard non dfm reliable lifters back in them.

Sounds good. I have a 19 leveled slt, but I plan on getting the new 22 at4 when it comes out, and I think I’m gonna go this route with the block rather than raising the front. Since the at4 has a factory level up front, by lowering the rear, It will still sit the same and just high as my truck does now.

Looks good. Have you driven it at higher speeds yet to see if there’s any vibrations? Some say they they need shims after block removal and some don’t need them at all. I know the non at4s have the shims.

If you have a trail boss or at4, you could take the rear blocks out to level and your truck will still be the same height as a leveled non tb/at4

Don’t know if it’s true or not, but I once heard that good rule of thumb is if your cold pressure jumps over 10% once their warm while driving, then you need to add more. So if you have 40psi cold then while driving it gets up to 45+ then you might try adding a little more. Like I said, don’t know how accurate this is, it’s just what I’ve read somewhere on some forum.

I know this is an old thread, but did you have any vibrations or have to put a shim like the non at4 has, after you removed the blocks?

I really am thinking about the zr2 but it only comes with 6.2 dfm, so ill probably pass. Maybe if it came with the diesel. they think dfm is something people really want, but i would actually be willing to pay more to not have it, if that was an option.

They probably want to do away with it themselves, but that would be admitting that it was a bad design. If this is the case, it seems they could use the supply issue as an excuse. The same way their leaving off features in the newer ones. They could say, due to the parts supply issue, we will no longer be using the dfm, or lifters. We will be going foward with the reliable standard lifters. You may experience a very slight decrease in mpg, but at least you wont have to worry about tearing into the engine after a few thousand miles.

My 2019 8 speed. does the exact thing. Only in reverse it slams into gear. After I drive it a few miles it doesn’t do it. You can let it sit and warm up all you want but that doesn’t help, it has to be driven a while for it not to fo it. I’ve gotten in the habit of backing in to the garage or parking spot after driving so it doesn’t do it, that way after it cools down I can pull out in forward to avoid the hard clunk. Carried it to the dealer a while back but of course when I get here it was warm from the drive and didn’t do it. Of course they said it was normal. It can’t be good for the trans, this isn’t your normal jerk, it’s a hard clunk like gears slamming together, shakes the whole truck. As far as driving, it shifts smooth. No problems there.

They say the u bolts should be changed because the threads are stretched when they are tightened or something like that. Most folks use the same bolts without problems, but you may want to change them, because once you remove the block, the original bolts will hang down low and their may not be enough threads to grab. Watch the way the guy in this video removes the blocks from his trail boss, probably the easiest way to do it. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6Yp-40GBxi8

Romoving the block would be the easiest and fastest of the two. Some folks say that if you remove the block, or use drop shackles , you need to put a small angled shim or you will get vibrations, and other folks have done it without the shim and have had no problems. Since yours is 3” higher in the rear, the block is only 2” so you shouldn’t be lower in the rear, sounds like you may still have a small rake. Or you could always change it out for a 1” block and keep a couple sandbags in the back to make it level. This way you could remove the weight and get small rake back when you get ready to tow or haul.

I’m sure they know they have a problem and no telling what it’s costing them in warranty repairs. Like you said, they don’t want to admit it, but I was thinking chip shortage would have given them something to blame it on and a good excuse to do away with it, but l guess not. Even before the recent failures or bad batch, most of the afm engines that lasted a while, still probably wouldn’t make as far as the pre 2007 engines without it. Those lifters would eventually collapse weather it be 40k or 200k, it would probably be rare to see an afm with 250k + miles, without lifter failure, like you do the old 5.3’s

No experience of my own, but from what I e read is that the folks who deleted the fan or dfm either said their mpg hasnt changed or very little. You may be right tho and even then, to me it’s a small price to pay to lose 1-2 mpg to have piece of mind that it won’t leave you stranded on side of the road 500 mi from home alone in the middle of the night. I’m not really worried about the long term reliability as I plan to trade in before warranty runs out, but now I have to worry about an engine failure on a new truck every time I take a long trip. I have a 19 5.3 now and was planning on getting the new 22, I’ll either get the diesel 3.0, or the new tundra. Won’t be getting another gm v8 unless they address the lifter issue.