AD80

You could always remove the rear block. That should get you level without changing you front end angles. Since it is already raise 2” front and rear from the factory, if you remove the rear block, it should sit the same as a non at4 with a front level kit. So it won’t look too low if that’s what your thinking.

Dang, I was hoping to see “ Due to supply issues, all 5.3 and 6.2 trucks will now be without dfm and instead will have normal lifters from back in the reliable days. We are sorry to inform you that you may see an extremely slight decrease in mpg, but at least you will more than likely make it a few thousand miles without having to tear into the engine. “

The only time I’ve heard of something like this happening is when folks put oversized level kits and heavy tires. Even then it’s rare. Looks like you have stock suspension and tires. From the pics it looks like the ball joints broke into. The fact that both sides failed within a few days is scary. Have you done any hard off roading in the past that could have damaged them? If not, it could have been a bad batch of ball joints or something.

Yes, could have been a lot worse. glad your ok. Since there is no recall for your truck, and it still happened, then i guess it could happen to all trucks. I wonder if the dealers will still fix this, weather we have a recall out or not.

Karrs42901 and Redslt, did your trucks have this particular recall out for them? I’m just wondering if even the trucks that don’t show this recall are also having this failure.

Thanks

I noticed their is a recall for certain trucks with this issue. Just curious if yours is one of the trucks with the recall.

I just got the brake warnings and check engine when i started the truck. Turned off and restarted and the brake stuff went away, but my check engine light is still on. Ive never used the app to start, only used the key fob remote start once a while back just to see if it worked. So its not just the trucks using the app that have the problem.

2" level, 275/65r20 ridge grapplers. No issues

Their should be a small dot or indentation on the front of your headlights , marking the center. Measure from that dot to the ground. Back up 25 away from the wall. Your light cut off point should be about 2" lower than your first measurement. So if your headlights are 47" from the ground, the top of the cut off line should be 45" on the wall when 25 feet away. I dont know if this is the official way to do it, but this is seems to be the way folks are doing it, and it should get you in the ballpark.

Thats good to hear, hopefully not all are affected.

Does anyone have, or know someone who has the su4 axle with a few miles racked up that does NOT have the jingle. In other words, if we have the su4 axle, do we need to expect it to happen sooner or later, or are some doing fine. Maybe there was a bad run or batch while other su4’s are not affected. No problems with mine, but I don’t have many miles yet either.

Lol I think I’ll have to flip a coin.

I was just on there and they have this truck with the ionic gladiators also, which look good too, now I can’t decide. They both have the tight low profile look.

Thanks guys, I’ll check them out. I have an slt which came with the chrome wheel to wheel running boards which look too long and out of place. Kinda like someone putting crew cab boards on an extended cab truck. I think ford has the best looking factory boards. Maybe someday they will figure out how to mold steps into the frame/ body, for a flush clean look.

Name of those running boards? I like how they low profile and don’t stick out much.

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Ready lift says 65lbs for the upper ball joint. That’s all I had to take off to do mine from their instructions. If I had to do it over, I would have went ahead and took everything else loose to make it easier. It was a nightmare trying to pry on and line up the level bolts.

I hope it will, and other than the reverse engage, i have no complaints while driving, it shifts and downshifts so smooth, i cant even feel it most of the time.

That good to hear that yours went away after a few miles. Mine was built on 6/19, so it should have the updated fluid. I’m also careful and won’t put it in reverse until the rpms come down all the way after start up, but it still does it. I crawled under and the drive shaft seems tight. Mine only has 500 mi, and I haven’t used 4x4 yet, so I’m gonna go put it in 4x4 and run it forward and reverse a couple times to see if maybe that will do anything. It might be something in the transfer case, who knows. Maybe it will free up.

Mine feels like older trucks do when they have bad u joints and slack. Like I said, it’s only when going to reverse from park. Going to drive is so smooth,I can’t even feel it engage. My dealer is 100 mi away and I don’t want to drive that far just To have them tell me it’s normal. Maybe after more miles it’ll get a little more broken in and loosen up.

On my 5.3 8 speed with less than 500 miles, when i put it in reverse, from either park or drive, it slams or jerks into gear. It feels like the same jerk you get when parked on a slight incline or when you shift before the rpms have settled down after start up. But in my case i can be on level ground with the rpms at low idle and i still get it. It doesnt do it when shifting into drive, just reverse. I noticed that when i go to neutral then back to reverse its still does it but not as bad, but straight from park to reverse is when its the worst. I know in general, this isnt normal, but is it normal for these 8 speeds? Btw, it shifts smooth while driving, so no problems there.

no problem. In that pic, it looks nose high, but in person it looks more level.