doubeleive

my radio works all the time, but sometimes stays on when everything else is turned off, no key in it doors locked lol (turns off eventually) the things that usually do not work are the chimes or parking sensor beep, those have a mind of there own and sometimes work and mostly do not, i changed the hmi, updated all the software no fix, so whatever....... it runs perfectly.

I am driving a 2018 4x4 crew cab standard bed z71, 4.5" lift + wireless 1 air lift 5000 on the back that can give me another maybe 4" or so of rear body lift on demand. I have skid plates, and a winch, and D rings/shackles and plenty of recovery stuff already and I am not planning on rock crawling with this thing, just trying to have a little fun and hopefully prevent any body damage should i have no option but to move across a rock. this trail is rather tame compared to others around here most of them are pretty much short wheel base jeep trails. Last time I tried to go out with some jeeps I got hung up on a pretty good sized rock with my steps, if I had sliders I probbably would have been fine. It's just the delema of running a full size on trails without 37" tires. I could run 35's without any other mods and currently have 33's and the lift which should be able to make that trail others have. I am just looking to see if anyone has any recomendations or used any particular brand as I am sure there is junk out there like anything. I should have bought sliders instead of steps to begin with lol

has anyone put sliders on? if so what brand and any pics? I want to try out a trail this summer but I want to put sliders on first my existing steps even though high up have caused me to get hung up on some rocks already, if they were sliders it would have been fine but the steps would have been mangled this is the trail in question, if you skip thru to about 3/4 of the video you will see the technical portion

I didn't catch the "loosing coolant" part might want to check under the filler cap and make sure there is no snot looking stuff inside the filler cavity hole and under the inside of the cap. otherwise a slow coolant leak can be hard to find you need to get under it with a flashlight and mirror and look everywhere for a redish/orange colored tinged fluid or dried up spot, slow leaks can be wet and then dry out in the wind but will leave a mark. take off all the plastic trim around the top area of the radiator and look down both sides with a flashlight, look under the water pump (reason for mirror) and check for a leak there also.

well I drive mine like a race horse on a full injection of steroids and it does not use a drop of oil bewteen oil changes of 3000 miles so even though gm may not admit it I would say you have a oil consumption problem, you can try a catch can and see if that helps

all you care about is saving face on a social platform, get it straight the copy n paste thing is old aready, real old

no problems like I was having before since replacing the alternator, but my problem was very rare, recently my radio sometimes stay's on after I remove the key and have opened and shut the door, sometimes if I unlock it the radio will come on and sometimes if i put the key in to do something and then exit it will play for a while kind of weird I am thinking it has something to do with the ignition switch because I can make it stop doing it by putting the key back in and removing it again. I even video recorded it playing the radio for a couple minutes with no key in it and all doors opened and closed several times.

you should be able to get it on there even with shutters, all you have to do is pull the center grill off and figure it out, if I can cram a tru cool in there a light bar should be a breeze.

has anyone swapped a (enhanced cooling) NHT radiator into a non NHT truck? a little research tells me the core size is the same but the tank is larger on one side so just wondering if it is still a direct fit or not or if i have to get a different trim piece or something, fans do not appear to be any different nht or not

spent 1/2 the day yesterday running rca cables and a amp turn on wire and changed out some speakers in my sub box, went to hook up the axxess dsp I bought and all the POS does is make static spent a while troubleshooting it but it's just fubar. so this morning I bought a PAC AP4-GM61 it works great, doesn't quite have all the features the axxess unit would have had but it sure cleaned up the sound and bypasses the bose amp, you can tune it with a laptop via usb but I didn't have to change much the sound was pretty good right out of the box in fact all I changed was the sub crossover from 100hz to 80hz and turned the startup volume a hair. $400+ module but it works like I wanted so can't complain.

now if it was just wireless....

haven't really been doing much with mine but I finally bought a Metra DSP. I have been using a couple JL amps with hi/lo adapters and using the audio signal as the on/off trigger and at low volume it's not enough to trigger the amps on, I am still using the stock head unit mostly because there is not really many choices out there for "kits" but the new stinger seems a little better looking but still holding off on changing the head unit the "floaters" just do not do it for me. The metra can be adjusted with a phone app, not many reviews on it out there but it seems to be there "universal solution" and has been out for a while already. I just have to tuck this in behind the radio and run some rca cables to the amps and should be golden.

finally got around to getting the builtright bedside rack system together. comes with absolutely ZERO instructions, not a big deal but assembling some of the quickgrip stuff it would be nice to have a general idea of how it is supposed to be, there website has some install guides but none for chevy I have a bedliner installed so it has complicated things a little bit, the bottom attachment is not ideal it is a U shaped bracket but should be a u-bolt or a j bolt or at least have a L leg so you can turn it and snug it up that way, the way it is it now it just binds up so I bought some longer bolts and sleeves at the hardware and will finish it up in the morning. I may end getting a u-bolt and drilling a couple holes in the rack I could not find one that would fit the existing holes

finally received the builtright bedside rack, I'm 2 days into a rather mean cold that has me wore out, I will try and piece it together in the next couple days

still waiting for this to ship tried calling Friday to get any updates but no answer, I assume they closed early for the Holiday weekend, try again Tuesday I need these soon.

installed onboard air, not the prettiest thing but it works for my purposes

they said when I placed the order they should ship today (Wed), I will update once I get them

ordered a set of bedside mounts, should come in handy here and there for me.

bummer they get really really poor reviews on amazon, flimsy metal, only looks ok from the front unless you paint, install problems....

thanks it looks like the black is either no longer available or out of stock, I did find some matte black carrich's that are pretty much identical, while searching it appears the 2500 & 1500 are the same as long as it is not a dually or high country.?

ya I see the Sierra's have a different flare i like that style, kind of searching for a close match for the Silverado but they all seem to be thicker I just want minimum coverage to protect the metal and not some 4" plastic, maybe if I could get a painted set it wouldn't look so tacky.

are those fender flares oem? or another brand I am looking for some thin ones just like those, just enough to protect the metal and not stick out.

it seemed like the most logical place to put them since the door harness is not like they used to be where you could easily fish a wire thru the boot and it needed to be connected to the crossover and I figured if I screwed it up that it would be easy to just replace the upper trim piece that goes around the window

are you installing a amp? or a adapter for the factory system I discovered some things when I did mine, things like the factory amp outputs. if you have the Bose system the factory amp filters the base output and splits the bluetooth audio/backup sensor beep/vehicle warnings into separate channels. Mine is not completely done yet I bypassed the factory amp and even using a 5 channel amp I don't have the backup sensor beep. I need to get the PAC adapter that will fit inside behind the screen that will split the channels up properly. I went with component up front and put the tweeter's here

i put the sundown's in mine been in there a couple years, sound great, perfect fit, they are used with a jlaudio amp https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004309LTO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1