I hear ya. To each their own. Just wanted to throw it out there for anyone looking. The tires don’t have wear issues and balanced out great. Maybe they’ll make it past 30k maybe not but for 50% the cost of a name brand tire I’ve got no complaints.
These pics are after 15k miles. (I rotate every oil change, 5k) they are wearing great with zero cupping or chopping and should have another 15k left. Anyone daily driving a T1 with 37’s should get that 30k out of your cheap tires is an accomplishment
Got some heat on running milestone Patagonia mt/s when I lifted my 2019. Users didn’t like that I didn’t spend 2k on tires. To me these were affordable and fit by budget of 37-13.5-20s in the 1k price range.
To answer your question in all the pics I’m running the 6” rc lift all the way around as it comes with the addition of 2” drop shackles and 1/2” front top strut spacers as well as 2” wheel spacers on all 4 corners. That setup on 35’s is 35 12.5 20 on factory rims. The new wheels are 37 13.5 on tis 944’s 20x12 with -44 offset. The 35 setup barely brushed the felt fender liner. The 37s rub the bumper and fender lightly at full turn. This is why I’m doing the glass fenders and bumper spacing.
I ran stock wheels with 35 12.5s on a 2” level and 2” rear lower last summer. Have since changed suspension and have rims you wouldn’t like and 37 13.5s
** FYI I had 2” wheel spacers but here ya go
My blocks are tapered and like I said I pulled the spring pack apart to pull the factory shim. My pinion is nose down like the pic shows. Did you by chance remove the driveshaft from the pinion flange when you did the lift? If so maybe ClockIt 180° the other way and see if you just changed the factory balance by moving the mounting position. Other than that another simple thing to do is just rotate your tires and see if the vibration changes from your butt in the seat to the steering wheel to rule out a tire balance issue